914 Whats the engine?

[914 again]

Just picked up a 914 after 15 years since my last one.

I bought it on a whim and want to tinker with it.

First question to any gurus out there. How do I time this bloody thing?
The engine is supposed to be a 2.0 but I don't know if it is a bored out 1.8L or a "real" 2.0 which I think would affect how I set the timing. Would it be best to find the engine numbers and read them off? If so where are they hiding?
THe engine is not the original so pulling it off the chassis wouldn't help.

Second question what is the best 914 shop for rebuilds and basic maintenance in Southern Calif? I plan to tinker with it but for the big stuff and thing I don't trust myself with I will leave it to the pros.

Thanks for the input

[Brad Roberts]

Otto's in Venice beach.

The numbers will be on top of the engine case.

Here is a 1.8 or 1.7:



Here is a 73-74 2.0 (all the 2.0s will be in the same place):



B

[tod914]

I would recommend Ottos as well. When I was living in
LA, after taking my car to several shops and not getting
my problems resolved, Otto was the only 1 who figured
out what the problems were. Well good luck with your
car. Im sure youll be happy with the end result.

[mr914]

Another way to determine if you have a 2.0 (or real 2.0 heads)

Count the number of bolts where the intake meets the head. 3 is a real 2.0 head and 4 bolts is either 1.7, 1.8 or bus

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

What kind of fuel system is on the thing?

What is the part number of the distributor? (Use a flashlight and a mirror to see this.)

Those will affect what the "correct" timing is.

For some suggestions on timing, see the Tech Articles elsewhere on this site.

--DD

[campbellcj]

Yeah, Otto is a character but he has been around these cars so long that he's seen pretty much everything. One time I had a weird non-start problem with the ravenna car, and he diagnosed & solved it over the phone before I even finished my sentence. (Fuel pump relay).

BTW - I was disappointed (and kind of pissed) today to discover that Porsche "redesigned" their Porsche-Classic web pages, and removed all the chassis and engine number details. It was a cool little reference you could get to from anywhere in the world. The pages are still there, but not nearly as informative or easy/quick to navigate. Grrrr, those darn web developers can't leave well enough alone sometimes.

[914 again]

Thanks for all the feedback!

I will tinker with the 914(1974) this weekend and try to make it to Ottos next week.

Thanks again!

[Brad Roberts]

Your killing me.

Go right now and find out what the engine is....LOL

I took those pics just for you and posted them hoping you would find out quickly what the engine was and tell us.

Then and only then, we could move forward with the timing.

B

[914 again]

Ok Ok

The number I found was on the passenger side under the car. It reads:

S1 12 W 1
004101101A

So I assume this is a VW engine?




_______________________
74 914 with Fuel Injection

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Unknown. That's a casting number or a parts number for the crankcase only.

The engine serial number is on the top. Check the locations in Brad's photos. You may have to get some hoses and wires (and plenty of DIRT) out of the way to see them.

What does the FI look like? Is the throttle body vertical or horizontal? Is the air cleaner over on the left side of the engine bay or closer to the middle? Round, rectangular, or square? Is there a box with a quarter-circle "bump-out" hanging off the side of the air cleaner?

Three intake studs on the heads or four?

--DD

[914 again]

OK

I finally found the sucker and it looks like a 1.7/1.8

EC040720

Please see the JPG for the Fuel Injection (rectangle, drivers side)

OK whats next, distributor numbers?


___________________________
74' 914 Fuel injection Engine type?

[campbellcj]

I'm no expert, but I don't recognize much in the pic in terms of airbox, vacuum lines, etc....so my vote is a 1.8 L-Jet car.

That's what the EC # indicates, also.

[Brad Roberts]

Come on Chris,

You just passed the test to be a technical 914 advisor for RENNLIST.

B

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

LOL! On Rennlist, or for Rennlist?

The air cleaner is on the left-hand side, and has a box attached to it with a quarter-circle bump-out. That makes this an L-jet-FI-equipped car.

That and the engine code agree that this is a 1.8.

If the distributor has a vacuum dashpot on it, then it is probably the original one. Don't fret about it. If it does not have a vacuum gizmo, then start looking for the distributor part numbers.

--DD

[914 again]

The distributor has a vacuum hose attached to it.

Now, how can I tell if the squirrelly skunk who sold this to me was speaking the truth when he said it was a 2.0(ok the varmit stretched the truth if he modified a 1.8L its not a true 2.0).

My guess would be to check the compression to see if it has been bored out. Does anyone know the PSI? Or is there an easier way to tell?

BTW How much do you shorten the life of an engine when you bore it?

The next question is how do I time this puppy? There seems to be two marks TDC and 5 degrees.

Thanks again guys!

[Brad Roberts]

Welcome to 914 land where more than half the people out there think they own a 2.0 until they try to buy parts for it. They then start calling the parts guy's names because the parts dont fit their 1.7.

Sorry. I see and hear this ALL the time.

Good luck. DaveD is the 1.8 guy. I have one in the shop and its going to get cut up.

B

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I dunno about "the" 1.8 guy... But I have learned a few things about 'em.

Timing is 7.5 degrees BTDC at idle, with the vacuum hose(s) disconnected from the distributor and plugged. That's the "5 degree" mark you noticed.

I figure you just treat the motor as a 1.8 unless something proves differently. I.e., you find three-intake-stud heads, or you find some receipts, or ... Really, the only way to be sure of the displacement is to pop off the heads and measure the bore and stroke directly. Or you can take the motor out and strip all the "externals" off of it, then fill the cylinders with oil through the spark plug holes at TDC and BDC. Measure the difference between TDC and BDC and that's the displacement of one cylinder. ... Lots of work.

--DD

[914 again]

Thanks

I timed the engine at idle 800-900RPM using the first mark going left to right. (This is looking toward the front) is that the correct mark?

The first mark on the opposite side of the impeller is a "|" the second is a "•".

I set the timing using the "|" is this correct?

Also if this 1.8L has been bored out is the timing sequence different?





Thanks again
Dazed and confused

[mike mueller]

For the most part, no differance on whether the motor is larger or not when it comes to timing the motor.

Normally new pistons and cylinders which are larger in diameter are installed instead of boring the cylinders like on a V8 motor.

I like the adjustible timming lights, with these you use TDC as the referance, makes everything go much smoother.

Have you made sure the advance works correctly in the distributor? Max advance is one of the most critical items of your engine, the higher the advance, the more power it will create, but there is a fine line, too much advance and the motor might POP and melt down, not good.

for now, i wouldn't care too much if it's a 1.8, a 2.0 or 1911cc
(a 1.8 with big bore kit which is the typical size upgrade)

get it running good and have fun. The L-jet injection is not too bad once you learn it and understand it.