Where should I begin?

[dcjosh]

Hi everyone. I posted a while ago, but I am finally in full possession of my 71 914 and I want to start making a shopping list of what I will need for my car.

My car has been sitting for a long time, the most recent registration is from 1980, and I would not doubt if it has sat since then. The car did not have a battery, so I suppose I can start with that. The tray it sits on is kind of rotten, but not completely gone.

I'm sure the fuel has turned to varnish, so I would like to take the tank out and have it cleaned and inspected. The break pedal does not compress easily (at all) but the clutch has life in it.

Right now, I want to get it running and then work from there. I have a Haynes manual and I'm not afraid to get dirty, but I just don't know where to begin.

Any insight is appreciated.

Here are some pictures:

[jimbeaux911]

Congrats on your new toy! Get it running. oh boy!

your are lucky as aircooled engines age better than most as they sit. but the 914 chasis does not.
Drain the gas, remove the tank, and clean it out with lye. replace ALL of the fuel lines. get a new fuel pump and filter. if carbs, they need to be cleaned as well,maybe rebuilt. keep the 30 years of trash out of the engine. fuel injection? then new injectors at a minimum. Replace the points with electronic ignitor. new cap and wires. gas pedal assembly is likely rusted, maybe some PB blaster will free it, or maybe you need to rebuild it. Even if you get all the fuel system ready to go, DONT try to start the engine. You can really do some damage that can be avoided. change the oil, turn it over by hand, see if it has good compression, but I would adjust the valves as a minimum before trying to start it. if funds are not an issue, rebuild, or replace the engine. THats a LONG time to sit. All the seals are likely shot, water likely condensed in it each winter, and froze a valve or two. Rusted the rings? etc.

Once you decide to replace or rebuild the engine, and have cleaned out the fuel system. then you might replace the rusted brake rotors and pads, and maybe even Master cylinder. Getting the car going is great, stopping it is even better. Check all axle boots, likely rotted. change the tranny fluid. resurface the rusted flywheel, might as well replace the clutch too, throwout bearing and shims. lube up the wheel bearings.

And then of course, go over the entire car checking for rust. replacing rotten rubber, and generally giving the car all of your time and money

That shouldnt take more than a few hours of your time.

Welcome to the club!

[dcjosh]

I bought it because it was a complete and original FI car. Is there a way to test the pump outside of the car and can the injectors be serviced? I don't want to throw money at parts that can be serviced. The tank will be one of the first things to be taken and cleaned.

I have a Haynes manual, looks like I need to get reading.

[Arizona_928]

Welcome! Go on 914 world. Way more active forum. Congrats on finding an original complete car!
You can have the injectors gone through. I have personally used Cruzin Performance...

I would get the engine to turn over by hand first. It's all speculation until then.
I have seen more type 4's that have sat out in the open have at least one jug frozen with rust...

[beatnavy]

You can get good advice here, too. Sometimes its a bit more low-key. Based on your screen name, I think you have already been to the World.

I use Mr. Injector for servicing fuel injectors. It's about $18 per injector, and he does a quick and very good job. It's definitely a good thing to do if the car hasn't run in a while.

[Cairo94507]

I have to line up with jimbeaux911 on this one. Read everything about these cars and then prepare a comprehensive list of all of the things that will need attention and then approach them in a systematic way. Take your time and tackle one issue at a time.

Don't overlook assessing the chassis for rust. Get it up in the air and spend some time underneath with a good light and a pick or screw driver to probe/poke for hidden or disguised rust. That would be my first mission, were it my car. Once you know the extent of your rust, then you can prioritize the next mission.

For me that would be to assess the engine/transaxle and see if they spin freely. If not, the engine/transaxle comes out.

Then comes the complete fuel and brake system... you get the idea.

Good luck and have fun. Please remember to document thoroughly your car before you disassemble anything and then as it is disassembled so that when the time comes, you will have reference photos for reassembly.

Cheers.

[dcjosh]

Thanks. I have a 914 world account, but that forum moves a little too fast and there are certainly not as many technical articles.

I will be ordering wheels and tires so that I can get it rolling. Any ideas on best places for wheel and tire options?

My car has rust. Its a Minnesota car, but it has been stored in a barn since 1980, so it is not too bad. Unsightly, yes, but manageable and certainly drive-able.

[jimbeaux911]

caution, as rust can be hidden. I agree with Cairo, get it up in the air, and start probing. are the doors sagging at all?

If you want a set of cheap wheels to get it moving around your garage, find a set of old VW wheels. otherwise. put up a WTB ad here, and try to find something local.

FYI- i recently sold an engine to a guy who wanted to get his running after a long sleep. he got it running, and blew up the case when one of the valves froze up. Be careful! I dont know if Pelican sells engines, but AUto ATlanta sells rebuilt 1.7/1.8/2,0 engines. price isnt bad either.

[dcjosh]

[jimbeaux911]

those are Mahle gasburners. Nice wheels! they will clean up nicely.

[jimbeaux911]

for what its worth. I have soaked old fuel injectors in SEAFOAM cleaner with success.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Those are Pedrini wheels. They should work pretty well on your 71; they were an option for it in fact. The Mahles look similar, but the ribs run on either side of the lug bolt holes. On yours, half the ribs run into the bolt holes--that shows they are the Pedrini wheels.

Any of the stock 914 wheels should work fine--steelies, those Pedrinis, the Mahles, and the Fuchs four-lug wheels. VW Bug wheels will physically fit, but will put the tire far out in the fender well and will significantly limit the width of tire that can fit. Usually 195s can fit in the back with stock wheels, but 165 seems to be close to the limit with the VW wheels.

There aren't very many aftermarket wheels made with the 914's 4x130mm bolt pattern; far fewer with the 914-friendly offsets. The American Racing wheel on the left-front of your car may be one such, though it was also made for Bugs with their offset. Ditto the popular Riviera wheels, those are available in both 914 and Bug offsets.

All the fluids in the car will be toast. Brake, transmission, engine oil, fuel, windshield washer. At a minimum they need to be replaced; often stuff that touches them will need to be replaced. Probably all of the brake hydraulics will need rebuilding or replacement; PMB Performance in Utah is the best brake specialist I know of.

Rust can hide in the 914, especially in between the multiple layers of metal that make up some of the important bits of structure. Definitely get the car up in the air, and pull off the rocker covers or at least remove the screws on the bottom and swing them out. Clean up the astonishing amount of dirt that will fall out, then start poking the metal. There are other spots that can hide quite serious rust, like the parts that hold the right-rear suspension.

Good luck!

--DD

[dcjosh]

Can you recommend a tire size that will work with these wheels? I am getting some conflicting information and I want to be correct before I pull the trigger on some new tires.

From what I have read, these should work; but any recommendations are happily accepted. I'd rather not spend money on Chinese tires, but I don't seem to have a lot of options out there anymore.

Nankang CX668 High Performance Tire 165/80R15 87T

http://www.amazon.com/Nankang-CX668-High-Performance-Tire/dp/B004QL6ONQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[dcjosh]

Originally Posted by jimbeaux911

for what its worth. I have soaked old fuel injectors in SEAFOAM cleaner with success.

I have access to an ultrasonic fuel injector cleaner through the University that I am attending, so I plan on using that to clean and adjust the injectors if needed.

They also have a tire machine and several lifts which I fully intend on using once I get it running.

[John Rogers]

I would suggest the following: Get the engine running and after a short amount of time change the oil and filter. Check the transmission fluid and unless it looks and smells like new, drain and replace it. Second, drive the car a short bit around your house and then do a complete brake system check and replace as necessary. You want to be able to stop.....much more important than making it go! Third once brakes are okay, go through electrical, especially all the front and rear lights. Fourth are the seals, replace the ones that let water into the interior (you'll be shocked at the cost). Last of all drive it for a while and then make it look good.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by dcjosh

Can you recommend a tire size that will work with these wheels?

If you mean the Pedrini wheels you showed earlier, there are a number of decent 195/65-15 tires that should work. Though "should" means in this case "they don't always", because 914s tend to vary a little. They may rub on the fender lip on one side in the rear, because our fenders are tighter in the rear than the front and they also are usually a little asymmetrical. They will usually rub on the inner front fender when the steering wheel is turned full lock, but that only really happens at very slow speeds and is usually something people will put up with.

If you want something that looks more period-correct, the Vredestien Sprint Classic tires are available in 165/80-15, and from what I have read are decent all-around tires for that size. A more expensive but more period-correct tire would be the Michelin XWX (XZX?) available from Coker Tire.

The Nankangs are inexpensive, and they are the original size. I haven't heard much about them aside from that.

--DD

[mb911]

Looks like you don't need my wheels any more lol.. Looks like a similar project to mine though mine is further apart then yours..

[dcjosh]

Originally Posted by mb911

Looks like you don't need my wheels any more lol.. Looks like a similar project to mine though mine is further apart then yours..

Haha, thanks Ben. Yeah, I got these for a killer price and I need something sooner then later. I just ordered the tires so I can at least have something that holds air.

[ClausGraf]

Congrats!

Save the Porsche!

Claus

[Emo993]

+1 john Rogers.... and that looks like a great fine, have fun. Best, Mark