Outer cv/axle removal question

[John Kelly]

Hi Folks,

I'm trying to remove the rear axles. I've removed the 4 bolts from the outer cv, and it will not come off of the trailing arm. Is it necessary to remove the axle bolt as well? I'm guessing that's not it.

Thanks, John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[JWest]

You usually have to remove the stub axle to get it apart.

The two roll pins that hold the CV to the stub axle don't like to let go and removal of the assembly from the trailing arm is needed to pry them apart.

Theoretically you should be able to get it apart once the 4 bolts are out, but it does not always work that way.

[John Kelly]

Hi James,

Thanks for the quick response!

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[John Kelly]

Is a puller required to get the rotor off sometimes?

Thanks, John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[maf 914]

I've never had a problem removing the rear rotors without a puller. Remove the wheels, calipers (hang them out of the way with wire), small rotor retaining screws, and it should come off with a few taps. The Haynes manual says that if the rotor is stuck, then thread two 8mm bolts into the two tapped holes to drive the rotor off the hub.

Mike

[JWest]

Make sure you get the rotor screws out. Sometimes they get filled with rust and you can't see them.

If you are still just trying to remove the axles, then just remove the 30mm nut in the center of the hub and the stub axle will push inward without a lot of force (usually!).

[maf 914]

Okay, next question. After driving out the axle, what is the best way to drive out the hub? Is this difficult? I've never done this but can see a control arm rebuild in the future.

Mike

[JWest]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_five_lug_conversion/914_five_lug_conversion2.htm

[maf 914]

James, Thanks for the link.

Mike

[John Kelly]

Well on one side I've got a stripped12 point bolt on the outer cv, the other side I'm fighting with the two screws, although if I understand correctly, I don't really need to remove them to get the axle/cv out. Also, the axle stub shows no sign of budging even with a good wack from a hammer on the end (protected by nut). Any ideas?

Thanks, John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[JWest]

Soak with penetrant and try again later? (Make some of those nice 914 flares while you're waiting as an appeasment to the Porsche gods).

[John Kelly]

Hi James,

Thanks, I'll do that. I find metal shaping less frustrating than mechanical work...most of the time.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[J P Stein]

The stub axle can be a stinker if it hasn't been apart for several years.

I turn the big nut over and get a BFH ....Model 80 (5lb).... and give it a few wallops. This can ruin the castle nut, but better that than the axle.
You can also try heat and penetrating oil, but I prefer brute force.

A gear puller should work, also

[korijo]

John,

Just went through this a week ago. We pounded with BFH (dead blow works well, too) and block of wood. Took a few tries... Also, an air hammer might work.

About the strippped bolt, try taking a socket, 10mm I think, and pound it on the bolt. A 12 point (as apossed to a 6 point) socket works best. Then just ratchet off.

You have the tranny cv's off yet? This will ease in getting the stub/drive shaft out.

HTH

BTW, where am I on the flare list?

[John Kelly]

Done! Thanks James, JP, and Korijo for responding. The bfhammer ended up doing the job after soaking in wd-40 for a while...even managed to do it without damaging the nuts. I'll try the socket trick for removing the bolt. If that does not work I'll weld a "wrench" to it. I was going to threaten the car with a picnic table size rear spoiler, and the baja treatment if this failed.

Korijo you are number 16 on the waiting list for flares. You will most probably end up a lot closer than that. These things have a way of evaporating when people come to their senses! I'm finding that they take quite a while to build. Getting the rough shape is easy. The finish work is the time consuming part. Thanks for your patience.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The typical way of disconnecting the outboard CV joint is to disconnect the inboard one first (you can get at the joint to work/pry/smack it loose), remove the castellated nut (be sure to remove the cotter pin first, DOH!!), then beat the slobber out of it with your favorite version of the BFH. Dead-blow is preferred, large and ugly is a bonus. Usually the castle nut is put back on again backwards, just even with the end of the stub axle. That lets you get it started without mashing the threads on the stub axle. Using a block of wood can help save the nut, though it often survives without.

Then you take the half-axle and put the outboard CV into a vise, remove the CV retaining bolts, and work/smack/pry it loose.

Installation is not that awful, particularly with air tools. (Zap the castellated nut back on most of the way to pull the stub axle into the hub.)

I hear that outboard CV replacement can be done without removing the half-axle, but it is a really serious PITA. I imagine you might be able to work some very small and tough right-angle-bent tools into the CV and pull it apart that way... I can't think of anything that I have that is small enough to fit and tough enough to pull the thing out, though.

--DD

[John Kelly]

Hi Dave,

Thanks, I'll do it that way next time. Makes perfect sense.

Mike, Thanks for your response as well.

I'm puttin this rear suspension in my Ghia. I was wondering if the car was balking because of that (insert smily emoticon). This 914 is serving as the basis for my 914 flare forms also. The rusty old thing is going to good use.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[Zeke]

What's the torque on the CV bolts? Not the big one. I know that is about a six foor bar with a 200lb. man on the end of it. Hah!

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

31 lb-ft.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_specs/914_torques.htm

--DD

[Zeke]

Thanks, DD.