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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Durban,South Africa
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Question Does Rust Stop Electronic Control work?

Has anyone out there have personal experience using these devices. In theory they should work, and steel hulled yachts and ships would not have them fitted if they did not, but I would like to hear anyones personal experience.
My 944 has no problem, but I have just bought a 96 Nissan Sentra for my daughter that has signs of rust coming through and my wifes 96 Opel Astra is starting to show signs.
Just like to know if it is worth spending the bucks ($169 here)
Old 08-20-2004, 12:43 AM
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You guys sprinkle salt on the roads in winter so it should not be too far off that which floats your boat, only more concentrated.
Old 08-20-2004, 02:51 AM
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could you post a link for this?

I would initially think that the process would not work. It works on boats becasue it has water as a conductive medium.

If it has been specifically designed for cars, that would be something else entirely

AFJuvat
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Ihr Brunnen der nutzlosen Porsche Information
Old 08-20-2004, 05:23 AM
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Rust on an automobile is a sign of neglect, and a cathodic protections system is not the answer.

I was in the U.S. Navy for over 20 years, and every ship I served on had a cathodic protection system to prevent galvanic corrosion.

To protect an automobile you need to be VERY agressive and proactive with washing and waxing. For areas that are already showing rust you need to remove the rusted metal, repair the area, and then properly paint it.

Once the damage is repaired and repainted you MUST keep the vehicle clean. Dirt holds moisture, and moisture holds O2 which is the main constituant in rust.
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'86 951 Kalahari Metallic
Old 08-20-2004, 05:50 AM
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I agree with the care aspect of a car, especially washing in the wheel arches and washing the car down after being close to the sea. Unfortunately the PO of the Sentra was a surfer, and his car lived outside most of its life at an apartment that is right next to the sea. I just want to prevent further spread of emerging rust after it is treated. AF I will look for a more detailed link and post it. These systems here in SA I am referring to have been specifically designed for cars.
Old 08-23-2004, 12:28 AM
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http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/

AF The link you requested
Old 08-23-2004, 01:00 AM
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Cliff:

I agree that aggressive cleaning will help, but (and I did live in the rust belt for years!!) the problem is the places one cannot clean; box areas, seams, etc, where liquids "wick" into. When I was restoring cars back in the 80s and early 90s, I went through gallons of a material that changed Fe2O3 (red rust) to Fe3O4 (black rust). Product name: "EXTEND". Pumped it into stub frames, door seams, fender seams, etc. It had to be sealed with paint afterward since it was water soluable; used two part epoxy thinned to get into the seams. Worked reasonably well, but the high dampness and winters even off the road and under cover will eventually turn any non galvanized steel to dust.

In the Winters back there, I actually saw cars in a so-called "dry" garage on a day when the outside temp got up a few degrees higher than the inside temp of the garage, have moisture halfway up the body like a glass of iced tea on a humid summer day.

Hopefully, in NC your winters are a bit less severe than along the lovely shores of Lake Ontario!!!
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Old 08-23-2004, 11:44 AM
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Send a message via Yahoo to bigyagi
hey porsche944! what branch were you in? jeez, 20 years!! i done 5 years in the mob, and was in comms{tactical}.
time to splice the mainbrace, right?
regards, bob. TA33-3-8.
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Old 08-23-2004, 01:45 PM
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