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Got the engine stand... now how do I use it?!?

Got the engine stand today...



The assembly instructions were clear and straightforward enough, but not included were instructions on how to mount the engine.

Now, I can assume that the four adjustable posts on the stand itself -



- mount up to the four bolt holes on the engine block -



- well duh. But what the heck kind of bolt should I use? The stand sure as hell didn't come with any extra bolts. Also, I could assume that I should take the head off the stand and mount it to the block first, and then mount the whole assembly on the stand. But I don't want to assume, because I don't want to screw up.

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Old 05-17-2006, 09:48 AM
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I just did this and used some spare bolts I had from the aluminum engine crossmember to subrame assembly. They fit perfect. Otherwise two of the clutch cover bolts are long enough to reuse as mounting bolts. Actually you will need spacers for them. You will need to get two more so bring a bolt that threads in with you. Mount those 4 arms to the engine tightly (holes around where the flywheel goes), and then snug the arms to the backplate. Be careful threading the bolts as you don't want to damage threads.

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Graham
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Old 05-17-2006, 10:41 AM
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Take the yoke off the stand for starters.

Take two of the arms off the yoke.

Use the bolts and washers from the crossmember (same thread pitch).

Mount the top two bolts to the bell housing to the yoke without the arms. Use 1/2 drive SAE :P sockets as spacers.

Mount at least one other arm to the bell housing (I used the left/driver's side) using the bolts. Shim up with washers.

Mine was only held on with three because the bellhousing was stripped.

Lift onto stand.


The reason you want the engine without the arms is so the yoke it up hight and you can install your flywheel to lock it in place to do belts and stuff. Be careful if you use the 4th bell housing blt hole as a holder for the flywheel lock if you're torquing your crankshaft bolt. You may need additional bracing on it.
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Last edited by VaSteve; 05-28-2006 at 02:11 PM..
Old 05-17-2006, 10:52 AM
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You did fix those stripped threads before putting it back in the car, didn't you?
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Old 05-17-2006, 02:03 PM
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www.nutty.com to get the bolts you need in CT. Theyre located in derby.
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Old 05-17-2006, 02:05 PM
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There's a couple pictures in cchypers engine building post that show how it is mounted. It looks pretty simple, I wouldn't sweat it.
Old 05-17-2006, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Razorback1980
You did fix those stripped threads before putting it back in the car, didn't you?
Of course! I bought myself a nice set of taps as well!
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Old 05-17-2006, 05:04 PM
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so in other words I should secure a flywheel and bellhousing before mounting it to the stand? Don't forget, this engine didn't come out of my car, it is a stand-alone.
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:19 PM
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i don't know what you're project is, put on the bellhousing later. Put on the flywheel when you need to tension the belts or remove the crank bolt.
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Old 05-18-2006, 04:00 AM
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Thanks for the imput, guys. Steve, if you want to check out my ambitious project, here is is: Project "alpinen Wolf" Official Thread

Does anyone know offhand what size bolt would be appropriate here?
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Old 05-18-2006, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CJFusco


Does anyone know offhand what size bolt would be appropriate here?
For what? Bolting it up? M12 1.5 pitch. Same as the crossmember to body bolts.
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Old 05-18-2006, 07:17 AM
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A simple rule for engine stand. Put the mounting assembly on the engine. You must use all four or it will not be weighted properly. Try to center the center bar thingy in the center of the engine weight. With full engine assembly, it should be just above the crank towards the head. Lift on winch and slide the center bar thingy into stand and lower to ground. Easier to lift the stand to the bar. I found it very difficult to find the M12-1.5 bolts up here in Canada. Tap sets don't come with this size as well. Ended up going to the Porsche parts guy and getting two more bell housing bolts. Used large nuts as spacers.
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Old 05-18-2006, 07:54 AM
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Since I always take the motor out the bottom, I just grab the crossmember bolts when I go to secure it to the stand. They are the perfect fit, and you don't have to go buy anything.

For mounting it, no bellhousing, and it is easier with no flywheel as well, although I've done it with spacers before.
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:16 AM
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Depends on the stand. Mine has 3" offset tubes so it doesn't matter if the flywheel is on. Make sure to get the weighting position correct as the objective is to rotate the enging to work on it.
If anyone is interested, I ended up just purchasing the Triple Square 12mm 12 point socket from Mac tools. After all the pricing, it's cheaper to buy the 8 piece set than individually. 4,6,8,10,12,14mm and two other sizes. Will pay $54 can. for the set. Snap-0n charges $~39 for one sochet.
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:38 AM
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Wasn't there a thread awhile back about some company selling kits that contain an assortment of frequently-used-by-Porsche bolts and other necessary bits? Did a search, couldn't find anything.

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Old 05-18-2006, 10:24 AM
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