Correct spring compressor for struts?

[DSPTurtle]

Rasta, how much is "some" ATF?
Oh yeah, a word to the wise (I don't know why that is the saying... it should be something like "I am a dumbass and this happened that bit my butt"), the rear shocks come out much easier if you slight jack up the rear control arm. Otherwise the control arm wants to jump down (towards you!!!) when you get the first bolt out of the mounting.

[Rasta Monsta]

I once considered using the Black Artes of Mathe to figure out the answer to this and look all smart and stuff, but then I had a beer instead. You should put in enough ATF so that the insert is fully immersed. That way, heat generated by the insert is passed through the ATF to the strut assembly and dissipated, instead of creating an oven for poor Mr. Insert.

* * CAUTION - MATH TO FOLLOW * *

Volume of Strut (Pi * Radius * Radius * Height) - Volume of Insert (Pi * Radius * Radius * Height) = Volume of ATF

[RC924]

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

I once considered using the Black Artes of Mathe to figure out the answer to this and look all smart and stuff, but then I had a beer instead. You should put in enough ATF so that the insert is fully immersed. That way, heat generated by the insert is passed through the ATF to the strut assembly and dissipated, instead of creating an oven for poor Mr. Insert.

* * CAUTION - MATH TO FOLLOW * *

Volume of Strut (Pi * Radius * Radius * Height) - Volume of Insert (Pi * Radius * Radius * Height) = Volume of ATF

Don`t waste time on the maths. Just get a beer instead!

Thinking I`m a smart arse took all the measurements and calculated the volume to < 1cc. Might have been something like 169cc ? Total BS in reality, took as much again. So on the other side just filled it to about an inch from the top. Live and learn.

[The Glademister]

Done! That strut method rocks. Everything you guys described worked perfectly. And what a difference now. I think the car is sitting up 1.5" - 2" higher. The improvement in handling is dramatic too. Alignment could probably dialed in better but it's not bad now. What a nice feeling it is to do a job like that and save $400 - $450 in labor charges.

[DSPTurtle]

I made the decision to remove the strut from the car so I could clean up the housing a bit. I thought my alignment was okay too... turned out that I did not get the eccentric bolt anywhere near the right spot. -3 degrees and -2.5 degrees of camber on each side!!! Alignments are cheap after you saved all that money doing the install yourself

[The Glademister]

Oh, it will get an alignment eventually Turtle. I'm thinking that now this 924S is handling so well... it's going to be my AutoX car. You see, I just purchased a really nice 944S today. I'll have it evaluated by my Porsche guy. I might swap tags and start driving the 944S on the streets and use that spunky little 924S as my track car.

I'll post photos of the 944S after I buff and shine her!

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

I once considered using the Black Artes of Mathe to figure out the answer to this and look all smart and stuff, but then I had a beer instead. You should put in enough ATF so that the insert is fully immersed. That way, heat generated by the insert is passed through the ATF to the strut assembly and dissipated, instead of creating an oven for poor Mr. Insert.

* * CAUTION - MATH TO FOLLOW * *

Volume of Strut (Pi * Radius * Radius * Height) - Volume of Insert (Pi * Radius * Radius * Height) = Volume of ATF

FYI - The Koni instructions call for 50ml ATF which fills the strut tube up just right.

[flash968]

as long as you are getting an alignment, get the rear ride height set - many people ignore the rear, and fail to realize that 1/2" difference front to rear can equate to as much as a 100lb change in front to rear weight distribution (depending on spring rates) - this make huge changes in handling and braking