BJ Boot Only - Too Dangerous?

[OK-944]

OK - here's a question: related to my earlier post....my drivers side balljoint boot is old, dry and torn - but the joint itself is tight and when I pull the boot aside the joint looks clean. With this in mind...is it possible to just replace the boot - or am I truly tempting fate?

[Icey1174]

If everything looks and feels good I would just replace the boot.

Anyone else with some input here?

[zedsn]

Yes, once you have removed it successfully look at it close up and if it looks and feels good go to NAPA and see if they carry universal replacement boots. Just grease the joint up before you put your new boot on.

[ace_944]

How tight should the ball joint feel? Is it easy to move with your hand? Should it return to the upright position? Thanks in advance guys.

[Icey1174]

You can put a pry bar in the and "pry" around some to see if there is play of the ball joint in the control. Not so much moving it by hand or not, but if you can see it actually move side t side or up and down while it is inside the control arm.

I rebuilt mine with the brass bushings and I was still able to move it around my hand. They were pretty stiff, but it was a band new brass rebuild.

[KLR]

I had the same situation a few years ago. If it's not clicking and clacking, just order a replacement boot kit and a cannister of redline grease. I replaced the torn boot and repacked both joints on that axle. Never had a problem with it and it looked great when I took it apart 2 years (12k miles) later. Unfortunatley, I did not service the left side axle at the same time. The inner driver's side joint started making noise last year. Whoops.

[mattdavis11]

I would replace the joint b/c they are what $12?, and very easy to change. But then again, I have no earthly idea what year your car is, and can only guess no one else does either. Early=replace, late=maybe not.

[OK-944]

Thanks for the info! My car is an 85.5 - which has now been sitting for over a year. But I had earlier packed the joint with grease - and the boot tear is "tight" - with no visible infiltration of grit. At any rate, when I get it up onto the stands I'll give this another look, and the "pry bar" test as well. This car needs some other attention also - at least a cam reseal as there is a leak, plus some suspension bushings, and new tires. Ultimately I want to go through the whole car, but my funds are somewhat limited right now and I just want to get it back on the road as a safe driver. So for now I'm hopeful that I can simply repack the joint and replace the boot.

[Icey1174]

I do a few things to my car every year. I spend between $500 and $1000 on new toys for it.

John

[toolboy62]

If your car uses steel control arms I would just replace the joint (for those cars they are cheap enough if they're aluminum, yes you can replace the boot. The boot for the ball joint for the early cars (which I believe is shared with an A1 chassis VW) is the same as the boot used on the aluminum control arms. Just make very sure that the joint is still good.

nate

[TexasBlake]

How old are the ball joints?


I would replace them if they are more than 5 years old. You don't know the condition of the ball joint until you pull it apart, even if it "feels good."



It's simple to replace them. Here's how:
http://www.texasblake.com/porsche/tech/controlarms.html

[Zero10]

^^^
That link is good. If you replace the ball joints make sure you order a kit with BRASS BUSHINGS unless you want to be back in there next year, except next time you will have damaged pockets and be unable to rebuild the arms.

[TexasBlake]

Originally Posted by Zero10

except next time you will have damaged pockets and be unable to rebuild the arms.

I didn't even think about that.

I mentioned in there to go ahead and buy the brass ones, but I will add the justification you mentioned.