How can you tell if your A/C compressor is really leaking?

[wild man]

Originally Posted by KEV951

its leaking, leave it alone and live with it. or replaced or rebuild your expensive compressor

I like that response so much that, in addition to going +1 on it, I'm not even going to bother to read the rest of the posts in the thread.

[mattdavis11]

You seal it up with gaskets and o-rings. They have seal kits that are available. They're not very expensive either, maybe the cost of a couple of cans of 134a. Refrigerant isn't getting any cheaper.

[vdubr928]

Originally Posted by wild man

I like that response so much that, in addition to going +1 on it, I'm not even going to bother to read the rest of the posts in the thread.

Snicker.......... why bother fixing anything right? Just keep driving it lol

I saw a new compressor listed for 275 somewhere on line. I don't need one so I didn't pay attention to who had it. They are not too bad to swap.

[mattdavis11]

The parts you need are K20-2005 and K20-3115. Any a/c shop should recognize Santech part numbers, if they don't, run fast.

[uvachief]

Matt, when I finally get the 86 944 NA out of hock off the engine rebuild, I plan to send you a decent compressor over the holidays and let you have a whack at rebuilding it with better Santech seals.

[uvachief]

How can you tell if your ac control unit is working properly? Is there a bench test you can do?

[uvachief]

Originally Posted by uvachief

How can you tell if your ac control unit is working properly? Is there a bench test you can do?

bump

[DumbDog]

all you do is get a can of refrigerant with UV leak Detection..then you shine a blacklight to find the leak.

[DumbDog]

An auto-parts store should have it.

[looneybin]

Originally Posted by mattdavis11

It's not very hard to tear down a compressor, but the problem lies in getting the parts. The company I work for wouldn't have a clue, but I do. We buy parts from Santech, just not rebuilding supplies. I'll get back with you on the part numbers, but I'll give you a heads up, Santech isn't going to sell directly to the public. I can help you out.

If memory serves well, about the only thing you need to watch out for is the position of the valve plates when taking it apart. I think there are five 5mm allen through bolts holding the case together. Again if memory serves,

1) remove 8 or 10mm clutch bolt and pull off clutch friction plate
2) remove snap ring
3) remove pulley and clutch with bearing (need jaw puller most likely)
4) Remove snap ring
5) remove coil
6) remove allen blots
7) start paying attention, take notice of the valve orientation while separating case, or just pull the nose of the compressor off
8) drive out the shaft seal with a socket
9) lubricate seal and reinstall in nose (make sure you rid the shaft of any wear where the seal rides, emery cloth or fine sand paper then polish) and be careful inserting the seal, they do make a tool to install them. I think I have 2, never used them.
10) replace any associated seals
11) put back together setting the air gap properly, I use a business card sometimes when I've been drinking. Some have shims, some don't, make sure you don't loose yours when taking the clutch friction plate off.

I probably left something out, like oiling or what not.

However, if you've been buying condensers, you just need a comb, some acid and flush. Might need a way too weld where it leaks too, but I'm pretty sure you meant compressors though.

I may give this a try, my compressor won't hold a charge

[uvachief]

Can anyone point me in the right direction for step by step instructions for removing and replacing the condenser? Mine has a small leak in it. Anyone try any of that "seal a leak" in the can? I see dozens of them in auto stores and few have been written up in collector mags such as Interdynamics EZ Chill R-134a Refrigerant Plus Oil with Leak Sealer (18 oz.) or Red Angel A/C Stop Leak? I hate to go through pulling the old one and replacng with a used one only to have the same problem 30 days from now. Worth trying these sealant kits for $40 or just bite the bullet, sell my old used one and buy a new one for $250?

[John_AZ]

Adding link with answer by member kuehl to complete post if anyone else has this problem and searches.

A/C Compressor On and Off

John

[uvachief]

Charged the system again while hunting for the green dye under ultraviolet light. Small leak became a big leak. It appears to be the seals in the couplings where refrigerant line 944 573 197 08 connects to the condenser. Heard a small hiss while checking that soon became louder and refrigerant started bubbling out. Before adding more refrigerant, bubbles were noticeably present in the drier sight glass. I think it is o-ring part 999 707 250 40. There was green dye on the condenser but right wehre the connection was to the refrigerant line. Compressor had a small trace of green dye where refrigerant line 944. 573 091 03 connects to the compressor. Thinking that o-ring is bad as well. Same part number as the other one. Odd thing is that the a/c shop that got my system up and running in May of 2010 allegedly replaced all the o-rings. I had purchased an o-ring kit from Pelican and they may have used half the o-rings in it. Guessing they missed these 2. If I crack open the system, do I need to replace the drier again? Pelican shows 2 that fit my car. Cheap one for $11 and one for $59. I couldn't get the cheap one to fit last time. Was too tall. Headlights would not go down and would rub on it.

[uvachief]

Don't get how the a/c shop could have failed to have replaced these o-rings in 2010. I installed a new remanufactured compressor at that time. I had air for 2 summers. Guess you really do need to run your a/c once a month or the seals will rot.

[Gawernator]

Don't get how the a/c shop could have failed to have replaced these o-rings in 2010. I installed a new remanufactured compressor at that time. I had air for 2 summers. Guess you really do need to run your a/c once a month or the seals will rot.

That's what pops says

[mattdavis11]

You do not need to replace the drier, just the o-rings.

[uvachief]

This just gets better and better. Not just the seals and o-rings. The high pressure switch is covered in green dye. Cheap fix. The compressor has some green dye on it but it is mainly right where the clutch is. The condenser has a whole bunch of green dye along the bottom where the refrigerant line connects. More than just the o-ring seal. The service port is also leaking. I could throq a bunch of used parts at it or pick up a new condenser, lines and high pressure switch for about $450 with tax and shipping. New compressor would be another $500 or so. Does anyone make their own lines from the condenser to the compresor and compressor to the evaporator? They are complex so maybe the Pelican prices are not bad after all.

[Gawernator]

Eeek. When I went to get my A/C recharged I was just going to delete the A/C if there were any major leaks.