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Old 04-09-2012, 12:58 PM
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Mp, keep fixing and taking lots of pics! nice job


in regards to the odometer gear, theres no need to remove the circiut board. ive had my odo out twice, and never removed the board, but great write up.
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve322s View Post
Mp, keep fixing and taking lots of pics! nice job


in regards to the odometer gear, theres no need to remove the circiut board. ive had my odo out twice, and never removed the board, but great write up.
Write up and Pics are from OdometerGears.com so I can't take the credit on this one. I think they were just being overly thorough. Yes, you do not have to remove the PCB (Printed Circuit Board).
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:34 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #83 (permalink)
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ISSUE: Got a Passengers Seat Clicking Noise? Well, it really isn't the Seat but under the passenger side Radio Amplifier Cover between the seat and door. The Culprit is the O2 Counter which once it gets to a certain mileage, it starts to click and the click varies depending on how fast your car is moving. Very Annoying

FIX: Remove the Two Thumb Screws holding the Amp Cover down and inside you should see a small Blaupunkt Amplifier and Noise Filter (looks like a Transformer) and next to that is the O2 Counter. Just unplug the connector that connects to the O2 Counter and that's it. It's just a timer of sorts and will have zero affect on how the car runs or performs.

**Amended with Merlins Post**

Quote:
FWIW you can reset the counter.

looking at the counter picture,

Note the small standoff just under the wire connection
There is a small white or tan colored piece in this standoff,
with a small phillips screwdriver simply push the center of this into the box till it clicks,
then let it pop back out .
Viola the box is now reset
PICS: Thanks Mike (mproseusa) for the Pics!



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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior
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Last edited by MPDano; 04-29-2012 at 08:31 PM..
Old 04-19-2012, 07:44 PM
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FWIW you can reset the counter.

looking at the counter picture,

Note the small standoff just under the wire connection
There is a small white or tan colored piece in this standoff,
with a small phillips screwdriver simply push the center of this into the box till it clicks,
then let it pop back out .
Viola the box is now reset
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Last edited by Mrmerlin; 04-29-2012 at 07:55 PM..
Old 04-29-2012, 11:40 AM
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Ball Cup Replacement

I had very inconsistent shifting in my '83, one moment i could get it into gear well the next i could not.

I removed the view plug below the clutch and there was plenty of clutch material in there.

I removed the cat and the clutch pack bell, blew all the dust out of the clutch mechanism (wearing a mask) and readjusted the three forks which were out a half mm.

I noticed the throwout bearing lever had a lot of slop and i happen to already have a new stock ball cup bushing.

I quickly made a 16" rudimentary tool to hold the ball cup (my car had the clutch update done in 1985 BTW, entirely new) and i carefully installed the plastic ball cup onto the lever pivot and re-installed the lever onto it.

I did this without removing the clutch pack and once i got in i knew it was what needed to be done. My 2 and 3rd gear syncros are still a bit slow but what a difference. It shifts in a consistent manner, and is pleasurable to drive.
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Last edited by The Fixer; 10-14-2012 at 05:13 PM..
Old 09-15-2012, 03:29 PM
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Leo,
I've had a small problem having my speedo not indicate any speed while traveling. The next time I started the engine, put the tranny in gear, it worked. I've browsed through this thread, but got a little impatient. Is there an index to all the "fixes"? If not is there a way to make one?
Great Thread Thanks,
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mproseusa View Post
Leo,
I've had a small problem having my speedo not indicate any speed while traveling. The next time I started the engine, put the tranny in gear, it worked. I've browsed through this thread, but got a little impatient. Is there an index to all the "fixes"? If not is there a way to make one?
Great Thread Thanks,
No Indexes, but a good idea. I suspect that will take a little bit of time, but I'll do it when I get a free chance
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:50 PM
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ISSUE: Got a leaky fuel tank. Fear not, I got a fix for you. What you'll need is in the first pics.

FIX:

The Plastic Welder came from Harbor Freight. LDPE (Low Density Polyethylene) Welding Rods came in a couple days a go as I had to order them overseas. Got the day off and 4 hours before my son gets out on minimum day today. Prepped the area by sanding it down and using an angled dremel bit, created a valley right down the crack(s). Sanded down some more and then cleaned it all up with some Windex.

Heated up the area at around 300 degrees which is the welding and melting point of LDPE plastic. You can see when the tank material is about at it's melting point when it gets shiny. I used one of the ends of the welder to basically mix the melted material (tank) together. In a sense, it's should already be sealed now. I then heated up both the end of the area and the welding rod while pushing down as it slowly melted together. I used the long socket extension to push the material down and flat while heating it up.

After it cooled off, you can feel that the rod and tank are blended and one now (ohmmmmmm). Now to reinstall and give it time to test it's holding strength. I have complete faith in it, well semi-complete faith.

Ended up removing the brace again as I forgot to weld the crack right next to the first one. I caught it as I was scanning my pics. I ended up welding upside down as I didn't feel like removing the tank. Worked like a charm so far.

I went to gas station and filled it up to the very top until the the pump clicked it off. I could never do that as the fuel would come out of the top hose that was not connected. I installed the clamp on the tank side and just fed the hose through the hole and that worked like a charm.

Took the car for a freeway spin and came home to do another leak inspection. Not a drop. So far so good and sealed. knock on wood.

PICS:















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Last edited by MPDano; 11-21-2012 at 05:13 PM..
Old 11-21-2012, 05:09 PM
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:10 PM
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:11 PM
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I had been following the forum for months before I took the plunge and picked up a 83 928s 5spd. So far got the timing belt replaced, water pump replaced, altenator replaced and I'm currently getting a new wiring harness installed. Also manged to get the 30 year old crud called grease out of the sunroof and it works great now. The car still has a way to go but it 30 years old and it's a Porsche. At least it came with a service history.
Thanks MPDano for the common fixes. Hopefully I wont have to experience everyone you've gone through.
Old 11-22-2012, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbyshark View Post
I had been following the forum for months before I took the plunge and picked up a 83 928s 5spd. So far got the timing belt replaced, water pump replaced, altenator replaced and I'm currently getting a new wiring harness installed. Also manged to get the 30 year old crud called grease out of the sunroof and it works great now. The car still has a way to go but it 30 years old and it's a Porsche. At least it came with a service history.
Thanks MPDano for the common fixes. Hopefully I wont have to experience everyone you've gone through.
Glad we can help a fellow 928er and welcome aboard. Please start a new thread and post pics of your ride. We would all like to see her
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:50 PM
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Issue: Motor mounts are perished. How do you know?



The hook should not be that low, the oil pan is close to just sitting on the cross member. The engine will not rock at all when starting up, or revving, and while you're driving the car will feel like it's shaking itself apart as your rpms go up.

Fix: I will start with giving all credit to the following 3 resources -

Dwayne's Motor Mount Write-Up

Stan's Volvo Mount install thread

Shark Skin MM/Pan Gasket/Steering Rack write-up


Study these and you'll be fine. I'll sum it up here, but these 3 links will walk you through step-by-step, much thanks to them for taking the time to write these up.

I got my new mounts (Volvo mounts) from Roger at ************ - $100 for the pair.

I followed Dwayne's instructions for a DIY engine support. Cheap & Effective, and allows raising the engine simply by tightening the nuts:





You would start by loosening the sway bar and removing the sway bar to body bolts so it swings free. However, I found it ultimately easier to just remove the sway bar altogether. Then lower the reinforcement plate exposing the steering rack. In this pic, you can see how low the engine is sitting in relation to the cross member. Quite a lot of crap under there, so I did the oil pan gasket at the same time.



Pull the rack down and maneuver out of the way.



Follow Dwayne's write-up to remove all the bolts necessary to free up the cross member and Motor Mounts (MM). When the cross member comes down, the MM will just fall away. Pull the old ones out of their mounts and get the new ones in and bolt the top bracket to the top stud. Here is the new mount next to the collapsed one:



Getting the CM back in is a tricky job. Stan's thread details how to do this with the Volvo mounts. I also found that Dwayne's suggestion of removing the lower control arm to lower shock mount bolt helps a lot as well. Once the CM is back in place, lining up some of the bolts can be tricky. I found that using a jack with a piece of scrap 4x4 worked wonders to line up the INFAMOUS support bolts (+ a couple taps with a hammer), as well as getting the lower control arm to body bolts back in.

Follow Dwayne's write-up on re-assembly as it details the order in which the bolts should go back in and the proper torque specs for each. Once everything is back in and the engine is lowered, you'll see a stark difference in the engine height from the new mounts. Mine is sitting 1/2-3/4" higher than it was.





This is a nutshell post, but everything you could possibly need to know for this job can be found in the 3 links at the top. Again, kudos to those guys for posting such detailed info on this fix. It's a lot of work, but I am an amateur-wrencher at best and managed to get through it so if I can do it, any newbie can.

Cheers!
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Last edited by man_knee; 01-27-2013 at 06:43 AM..
Old 01-26-2013, 06:03 PM
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slow battery discharge: unknown source

got tired of always finding battery dead after car sits for a couple of weeks so following some other threads on here finally got around to fix it - I found a battery shut off switch at harbor freight that I was originally going to wire in series with the ground wire from the battery - but then scrounging in the garage I found an old Perko battery shut off that I had taken out of a boat and decided that would be the better alternative since I wouldn't have to fab a box to put the other switch in. BTW the harbor freight switch cost all of $9 bucks so no great loss there.
I went down to the local West marine and bought a foot of #2 ground wire and a couple of lugs and swaged them onto the end with their swage tool (crimper). ENtire operation took no time. Now I can shut off the ground wire when the car is not being used and I'm good to go. One of these days I will get around to tracing the discharge. And yeah, I need to reroute that 3 wire ground connector.....




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Last edited by jetfrank; 01-27-2013 at 04:29 PM..
Old 01-27-2013, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetfrank View Post
got tired of always finding battery dead after car sits for a couple of weeks so following some other threads on here finally got around to fix it - I found a battery shut off switch at harbor freight that I was originally going to wire in series with the ground wire from the battery - but then scrounging in the garage I found an old Perko battery shut off that I had taken out of a boat and decided that would be the better alternative since I wouldn't have to fab a box to put the other switch in. BTW the harbor freight switch cost all of $9 bucks so no great loss there.
I went down to the local West marine and bought a foot of #2 ground wire and a couple of lugs and swaged them onto the end with their swage tool (crimper). ENtire operation took no time. Now I can shut off the ground wire when the car is not being used and I'm good to go. One of these days I will get around to tracing the discharge. And yeah, I need to reroute that 3 wire ground connector.....




Funny i was in a similar discussion on another forum... i was thinking on this thing called battery brain, it has a remote! would make the process a lot less inconvenient, but haven't gotten that much feedback to invest in it.
Old 02-04-2013, 02:42 PM
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How to remove the torque tube and transmission. Videos made by Dean Fuller.

Part 1:




Part 2:

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1978 Porsche 928 Euro 5spd. Silver metallic/Black
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:49 AM
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Wow, great videos. Thanks for posting Riber and Thanks Dean for Documenting this. Once I clear out my garage, I will pull mine in both 928's. I still have all the parts to reseal both 4 speed trannys. Euro will get a Euro 4 speed tranny in place of it's 3 speed.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:12 AM
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ISSUE: Got Steering Play? Loose Steering?

FIX: New Tie Rods and new Delrin Bushings.

I didn't take pics for the get go, but here is what I did.

I first removed the nuts off the outer tie rod, used my HF pickle fork and smacked it till the ball popped off. Very easy. I then peeled off the broken rubber boot which give you access to the inner tie rod nut. I used a massive 1-1/4" open end wrench and gave it a wack a few times and it broke loose. I then threaded the tie rod off and set it aside. It is best to remove both sides while the rack is still bolted in as this gives you the best leverage.

Now, use the old tie rods to get your new ones as close as you can to the same length. Then tighten the locking nut down. I had to use three wrenches to keep the outer tie rod from spinning. Now make sure you slip the boots over the tie rod before re-installing. One side tightened easily (outer tie rod bolt), the drivers side kept spinning, so used my jack and put pressure on the underside of the ball and that kept it from spinning. Now you can start getting psyched up on putting the boots on their collars as this is a real pain in the a$$.

Ok, now to move on to the rack bushings. You'll have 4 17mm bolts and they will need a way to hold the top side while unscrewing the nut. Yes, this was a serious pain in the a$$ as well. There is one 17mm at the drivers side end which is easy. Oh, and one of those 17mm bolts is blocked by you battery cable harness going to the starter, use a 10mm socket to remove this.

Now, you'll have four 14mm nuts in the center of the rack plate, remove these, now the bottom plate will fall down. Your rack will come down a few inches making it easier to also get the inner part of the boots back on.

Removing the old bushings was another pain in the a$$. I heated up the center spacer and pulled it out, then used a chisel to remove the metal housing. See pics of what they look like after mangling them up. I then installed the delrin bushing by using channel locks to squeeze them together. Now the fun part is to put those four 17mm bolts back on which was a pain in the a$$.

All in all, a real pain in the a$$ and dirty job but the steering feels real good now.

PICS:











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Old 03-18-2013, 09:47 AM
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:47 AM
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