82 Porsche 928 Wont Start -- No Click.. No Turn

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by Maleficio

Good grief, replace that ground strap now! You can use a regular strap from Autozone. Though thicker, the battery door will close over it without trouble.

That engine needs some serious attention. Corrosion everywhere. How did it even run before?

Lol.. I've only had the car for 4 days..! give a guy a break ..ran great before.. hence my depression.. I feel closer to the goal with everyones help though. Thanks again!

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Dang, found it on eBay. They are still selling them.

Dodge Challenger neg battery cable, engine ground strap | eBay

May just have to grab this auction(looks sweet) -- does the battery compartment door close with this wire? looks a little round.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by AaronCross

May just have to grab this auction(looks sweet) -- does the battery compartment door close with this wire? looks a little round.

I had to Mod my Door with a small half circle so it can close. If you got a Dremel, then no worries. If not, get one, they are great for a lot of uses.

[Dean_Fuller]

I just noticed the title of your thread says "no turn". By that do you mean the key does not move past the lights on stage?

Does the car get water inside on the passenger floor board when it rains?

Take your time and clean ALL the wire connections you can find. I like to use my dremel with a small wire wheel...just wear glasses because the wires like to shoot out like flying frickin missiles some how right at your eyes and no where else.

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by Dean_Fuller

I just noticed the title of your thread says "no turn". By that do you mean the key does not move past the lights on stage?

Does the car get water inside on the passenger floor board when it rains?

Take your time and clean ALL the wire connections you can find. I like to use my dremel with a small wire wheel...just wear glasses because the wires like to shoot out like flying frickin missiles some how right at your eyes and no where else.

Hey Dean,

No I simple meant the engine/starter doesn't turn... but yes I do believe the weather seal is bad on pass side..

..it hasn't rained since I've bought the car. But when washing it water did come in from both windows.. and the sun roof/moon roof.. (whatever its considered).

certainly some chance for more and more corrosion.

[MPDano]

Here's a link to your Fuse/Relay Chart. Print this chart out and put in your glovebox.

http://www.928gt.com/t-82fuse.aspx

Looks like you have a bridge clip in the XIV Relay Space, I would remove it and hit it with a wire brush till shiny and put it back and try again.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by F18Rep

Next to the bad contacts suggestions, a bad starter solenoid will do this too. The no-click suggests (to me) that there is not enough current to pull the solenoid plunger. Maybe due to wiring/contacts, battery or a sticking solenoid. The old-school trick was to hit the starter with a hammer. I know its not very scientific but it actually worked for me (once). Anyway, if its repeatable, it fixable. These troubleshooting merit badges are the fun....Bruce

Funny, I did the same thing when my Starter went kaput. Broke out the hammer and started tapping the Solenoid. I ended up taking the Starter out and it was the bolt that pivots the solenoid gear had fallen out. Put a new bolt in hit it with 12volts and "boom" Solenoid kicked the gear forward and spun the Starter Gear. Easy fix.

[AaronCross]

Just a quick question about the security system.. it seems like Im getting a bunch of different info..

the main brain for my cs 8706 stiletto alarm is under the dash next to the hood pop right..?

..or is it behind the glovebox? Does this car/alarm have an ignition kill?

I was reading last night, how someone was jumping certain terminals to kill the alarm system all together.

The alarm company couldnt tell me if this alarm had a ignition kill in it.. but said if the main harness(next to the hood pop latch) was disconnected the alarm system would be deactivated..

..but i continue to read how people are removing the glove box and fiddling with a box back there..

The previous owner said that the ignition kill happened to him once when he first bought it - so I went to buy new batteries for the key fob(no luck).. but crimestopper also advises that the 30 year old keyfob is probably no good anymore.

Just want to make sure there is or isnt an ignition kill before I start tearing this thing apart.


Unfortunately I didnt get the S key with the car.. so its got me wondering.

Thanks

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Here's a link to your Fuse/Relay Chart. Print this chart out and put in your glovebox.

82 Fuse/Relay Chart

Looks like you have a bridge clip in the XIV Relay Space, I would remove it and hit it with a wire brush till shiny and put it back and try again.

So this is weird.. I have a relay in the XIV space?

[neil30076]

Check out my post 928 Oil Pressure Sender Dead after 15 Minutes? - the main starter wire is on pin 14 of the 14 pin plug. From there it goes to the starter itself. You can verify that whole circuit up to the starter is good by carefully putting a voltmeter from '50' ( heavy gauge yellow) on the starter to chassis, and checking for 12v when you turn the key. If it is missing, carefully pull the 14 pin plug ( disconnect the battery first) then put you meter between pin 14 in the socket and chassis, reconnect battery and repeat. If it is missing at pin 14 you have to work back up the chain, if it is there at pin 14 and not at the starter then wire to the starter is probably broken.

[Dean_Fuller]

The blower motor is directly above the fuse panel. The blower box base is notorious about leaking water that runs directly into and behind the fuse panel. You can clean and clean grounds BUT if this area is leaking it like gluing to sand...a waste of time. Not a bad job really but a necessary one if you want the car to be dependable. Test by pouring water over the blower area....I bet your door seals are not leaking...its your blower.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by AaronCross

So this is weird.. I have a relay in the XIV space?

Pull the Relay and Bridge it. You said you have a 5-Speed and a Relay is only for an Auto.

If you know how to read the diagram usually on the side of the Relay, you can tell which pins to bridge. You can make a bridge out of a short piece of wire and 2 spades.

[Landseer]

The way I read the documentation (and assuming no aftermarket cobble-up):

1. 82 fusebox has the same relay in slot XIV for both automatic & manual transmission car. (EDITED to Correct it)

2. Manual car ALSO has a bridge in the circuit
3. The bridge does not reside in the panel
4. Instead, it uses a small jumper wire, short and visible / I think its brown, located on a white connector in the spare tire well.

[Landseer]

The stock alarm box is located up above the glove box.
It wires-into Z plug on the CE panel.
To access it, one removes the glove box.
You shouldn't need to, unless the other alarm is scabbed into it.

That stock alarm has a disable feature.

Bypass can be achieved at the CE panel by removing the black "Z plug" and then jumpering a couple terminals. These terminals for 1982 are Z1 & Z6.

Looking at the panel where the plug used to be you will see two rows of three male spades.
Z1 is left column, bottom. Z6 is right column, top.
The plug you will have removed should have the terminals identified.

On cars without factory alarms, the plug is missing.
Instead a white psuedo-plug is plugged into that space, bridging the terminals I've identified.

On mine, I've built a short heavy jumper wire using good female ends (soldered onto the wire) and plugged it into the fuse panel as described.

[Landseer]

Regarding the aftermarket alarm: cut it out like a surgeon would cut a tumor out of a brain.

[AaronCross]

UPDATE

So despite being at the bottom of the steepest and shortest driveway you have ever seen.. we have her pop started, with ease I might add(9ft runway).

I did get a good look at the 14 pin and a few of the wires certainly look burnt.

- I've replaced the battery ground with a 2 gauge auto zone generic..

At this point with it pop starting, I'm thinking its either the ignition switch or the starter? or could it still be the grounds?

Need to get it to the shop now thats shes running.. been stuck in the house driveway.

So does testing the starter take precedence or should I be after the 14 pin?

Whats Under The Cap:

[Landseer]

That's good news.

Did you happen to try it by removing the relay and confirming the jumper exists in the back of the car?

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by Landseer

The part that is confusing me --- why did yours work with a relay? And what changed?

A really good question.. I did nothing other than clean the car while everything happened over the course of 3 or 4 days of owning it.

[MPDano]

Are you going to take the car to the Auto Repair or are you going to try and troubleshoot yourself? Looks like nothing we all recommended has been done.

I would drive it back up the driveway so you can pop start it again. Then disconnect the battery, separate the 14 pin connector and wire brush it down as well as the what you are showing in your pic. Unscrew the Hot Post and clean those connectors. Pull that Relay and put a bridge.

Then at that point it still doesn't start, you can continue with us and keep trying to troubleshoot or pop-start and take it to your Mechanic. Just so you know, these cars have electrical gremlins, but your going to have to get dirty and do the work yourself because if you think a normal mechanic can figure out what we have been through, your gonna be in for a huge surprise (in the amount of dollars). No joke and this is why there are so many neglected ones out there, mechanic maintenance costs are huge.

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Are you going to take the car to the Auto Repair or are you going to try and troubleshoot yourself? Looks like nothing we all recommended has been done.

I'll be fixing this car myself. This is a project car...

not really sure what you mean here.. i've basically done everything that has been recommended so far..

this thread is less than 24hrs old.. I can only physically do so much in a day..

But I do appreciate all your help.

as you say.. all the ground spots, 14 pin, bridging the relay, bridging the security.. all needs and will be done.

I'm personally happy just to hear it run at this point.