82 Porsche 928 Wont Start -- No Click.. No Turn

[AaronCross]

Hey, thanks to all that help..!

I just bought this car and everything seemed to run fine. Drove it home from out of state.. on the way home I stopped at the auto parts store to buy some cleaner and came out to a car that wouldnt start.

Symptoms:
When you turn the key to acc or on all is normal.. dashlights.. buzzer noise.. the radar detector comes on.. (the radio does not turn on anymore)

the Main warning light is on (!)

but when the key is turned to start nothing happens.. no click, no starter turn.. nothing.

the other day at the auto parts store.. we tried to jump the battery.. and then jumped from the jump post and it started.

2 days went by running and starting fine.. now its back to doing the same exact thing.

(I did leave the key in the on position for an hour or two while cleaning by accident and now its happening again)

when the key is turned to start most dashlights including the master warning turns off.. it always turns back on when retried.

I've had the battery & alternator tested.. they say ok.. cranking 808 amps, charging, exceptable draw.. battery gauge has it around 12 1/2 (while being jumped..?)

I've cleaned the ground wire/body connection for the battery...

Tried a different battery... (from a different car)

same same same..

contacted the security company.. they said to pull the main harness from under the dash/steering column to disable..

no luck..

so I'm thinking ignition switch or coil?

Is there a better way to test and see where the power is stopping?

Thanks for your time!

Aaron

[Landseer]

Ground straps fail on these cars. Intermittently. Then completely. Believe it.

If you have, say 12V across terminals on battery, you may only have 5 or 6 or 8 from battery+ to the body at a different point, say top of shock tower.

So that's number 1. Seen many cars go down for this in the last 18 mos or so. At least 6.

Then, clean little red wires at bat +, as they feed the electrical panel.

If still not working, CE panel fuse holders need to be cleaned, fuses replaced, and the relay tabs cleaned.

Sometimes its just a relay and there are a few mission critical ones for fuel injection, fuel pump, starter.

Start with ground cable though.

[Dean_Fuller]

Auto or 5 speed?

[JhwShark]

Originally Posted by Landseer

Ground straps fail on these cars. Intermittently. Then completely. Believe it.

If you have, say 12V across terminals on battery, you may only have 5 or 6 or 8 from battery+ to the body at a different point, say top of shock tower.

So that's number 1. Seen many cars go down for this in the last 18 mos or so. At least 6.

Then, clean little red wires at bat +, as they feed the electrical panel.

If still not working, CE panel fuse holders need to be cleaned, fuses replaced, and the relay tabs cleaned.

Sometimes its just a relay and there are a few mission critical ones for fuel injection, fuel pump, starter.

Start with ground cable though.

Yes, as mentioned, start with the ground cables then to the other grounds then the relay checking/cleaning. Then could be wires from the 14 pin connector...

Take/post a pic of your engine and the jump post area, the CEP

Talk to us...how many miles, condition of car...we like to know.
do some searches

[riber.bentsen]

Cut open the insulation on the main bat to frame ground cable. Post a pic of your findings..

[F18Rep]

Next to the bad contacts suggestions, a bad starter solenoid will do this too. The no-click suggests (to me) that there is not enough current to pull the solenoid plunger. Maybe due to wiring/contacts, battery or a sticking solenoid. The old-school trick was to hit the starter with a hammer. I know its not very scientific but it actually worked for me (once). Anyway, if its repeatable, it fixable. These troubleshooting merit badges are the fun....Bruce

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by Dean_Fuller

Auto or 5 speed?

5 Speed

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by JhwShark

Yes, as mentioned, start with the ground cables then to the other grounds then the relay checking/cleaning. Then could be wires from the 14 pin connector...

Take/post a pic of your engine and the jump post area, the CEP

Talk to us...how many miles, condition of car...we like to know.
do some searches

I've been searching around for alternate ground locations.. any heads up on ground points that would need cleaning in the engine compartment?

I could grab some pics.. i'll try to get those up in a couple hours.

The car is sitting odometer stopped at 86K -- previous owner says around 100K actual.

It's a vermont car so she's seen no salt ever... solid body.. interior good (the usual black leather shrink)...

Up untill this problem the car has run amazing.. no signs of problems at all.

Thanks for the help!

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by Landseer

Ground straps fail on these cars. Intermittently. Then completely. Believe it.

If you have, say 12V across terminals on battery, you may only have 5 or 6 or 8 from battery+ to the body at a different point, say top of shock tower.

So that's number 1. Seen many cars go down for this in the last 18 mos or so. At least 6.

Then, clean little red wires at bat +, as they feed the electrical panel.

If still not working, CE panel fuse holders need to be cleaned, fuses replaced, and the relay tabs cleaned.

Sometimes its just a relay and there are a few mission critical ones for fuel injection, fuel pump, starter.

Start with ground cable though.

The battery ground was certainly rusted and corroded... I cleaned it up the best I could.. soaked it in coke.. and steel wool and wire brush..

The stud was still a little rusted where the actual wire fiber makes contact so I tried to squeeze a 10 gauge jumper wire(just going to the same connections, battery to body) in order to try to boost the flow a little in case that braided ground cable had corrosion all the way thru.. which it still looks like it does(green under the rubber casing of it)..

..no luck with the extra jumper tho. you think it could just be this cable? or a collection of all the ground points(think that's what you were saying with the 5,6,8.. just confirming)

I'll def. start working thru your list, thanks for all the help!

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by AaronCross

I've been searching around for alternate ground locations.. any heads up on ground points that would need cleaning in the engine compartment?

I could grab some pics.. i'll try to get those up in a couple hours.

The car is sitting odometer stopped at 86K -- previous owner says around 100K actual.

It's a vermont car so she's seen no salt ever... solid body.. interior good (the usual black leather shrink)...

Up untill this problem the car has run amazing.. no signs of problems at all.

Thanks for the help!

I'm trying to build this Thread with know issues. There is a Grounds Chart posted.

**MOST Common 928 Issues AND Fixes**

[Maleficio]

You may have a bad ignition switch. The accessories position works, but the crank/run position may be worn out.

Like everyone has already said, regardless of what's actually wrong, you need to go through all the grounds and scrub or replace them all. This includes doing the same at the central electrical panel in the passenger footwell. There are some grounds up behind the panel that could probably use some attention.

Good luck.

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by riber.bentsen

Cut open the insulation on the main bat to frame ground cable. Post a pic of your findings..

[AaronCross]

Originally Posted by JhwShark

Yes, as mentioned, start with the ground cables then to the other grounds then the relay checking/cleaning. Then could be wires from the 14 pin connector...

Take/post a pic of your engine and the jump post area, the CEP

Talk to us...how many miles, condition of car...we like to know.
do some searches

[Maleficio]

Good grief, replace that ground strap now! You can use a regular strap from Autozone. Though thicker, the battery door will close over it without trouble.

That engine needs some serious attention. Corrosion everywhere. How did it even run before?

[MPDano]

From the looks of your jump post and 14 pin connector, you've never cleaned them. The metal contacts need to be nice and clean. I use a small metal brush. Disconnect the battery first.

[Maleficio]

I like to saturate everything with WD-40 a couple of days before I dig in to scrub everything. It helps a bunch.

I've got a spray can of battery terminal cleaner that does an awesome job of scouring away corrosion. It's essentially spray acid, and it doesn't bother my skin. After that, coat in some kind of preservative.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Maleficio

Good grief, replace that ground strap now! You can use a regular strap from Autozone. Though thicker, the battery door will close over it without trouble.

That engine needs some serious attention. Corrosion everywhere. How did it even run before?

I'm with Maleficio on this one too. Here is what I did on my 81 Euro. I got the straps off eBay but they came from a Dodge Dealership I think. It was a pair and I used the other one to ground the body to the engine.

[MPDano]

Dang, found it on eBay. They are still selling them.

Dodge Challenger neg battery cable, engine ground strap | eBay

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Maleficio

I've got a spray can of battery terminal cleaner that does an awesome job of scouring away corrosion. It's essentially spray acid, and it doesn't bother my skin. After that, coat in some kind of preservative.

Try a Lemon or an Orange sometime. Dissolves corrosion and have that Orangy smell to boot

I usually just half an Orange and twist it on the Terminals. Wipe off and spray that Battery Corrosion Preventer stuff. It goes on Red in Color. Good stuff.

[Maleficio]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Try a Lemon or an Orange sometime. Dissolves corrosion and have that Orangy smell to boot

I usually just half an Orange and twist it on the Terminals. Wipe off and spray that Battery Corrosion Preventer stuff. It goes on Red in Color. Good stuff.

Cool.

I've got a can of that red preservative, too. It runs easily, though. I'd like something thicker and stickier.