disk pads and rotor replacement

[provenceman]

Hello everyone:

I need to replace the disc brake pads and rotors on my 1987 928

Does anyone know the torque setting (ft lbs, or nm) for the bolts that hold the disc calipers to the suspension

Thanks

provenceman

[aluminum]

Most people just tighten them down > about 40 to 50 Lbs is fine I expect
To flush out the whole Brake System with New Fluid is a good Idea when you change the Piston settings with New Pads > Your going to crank ( Push them ) them way out from where they where.

[153bigblock]

I make sure the rotors are totally flush with the hub with a non-marring mallet and make them nice and snug with a little anti-seize. Otherwise, I will inevitably be drilling them out upon the next rotor replacement from stripping them because they heat seized to the rotor/hub.

[Pete R]

brake caliper to steering knuckle/wheel carrier 62ftlbs front and rear

[neil30076]

Per the '85-'86 928S, '87-'89 928S4 Tech Specs:

Brake caliper to wheel carrier 85 Nm
Brake disk to wheel hub 10Nm

[MPDano]

Are the S4's the same as the S? If so, you'll have a fun time removing the 2 small screws that hod the rotor on. I was able to find my Torque Screwdriver (proper name?) that you hit with a hammer. That was a huge help on some as they did back out with it. One I had to drill out.

You absolutely need to make sure it's flush as this is what will make sure that rotor spins straight. Anti-seize on threads is also a must to make it easier the next time around.

I also just tighten to where it feels right too. I'm kinda old skool on a lot of stuff.

[provenceman]

Thanks everyone for your great advice and tips

Always appreciate the help

provenceman

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Are the S4's the same as the S? If so, you'll have a fun time removing the 2 small screws that hod the rotor on. I was able to find my Torque Screwdriver (proper name?) that you hit with a hammer. That was a huge help on some as they did back out with it. One I had to drill out.

You absolutely need to make sure it's flush as this is what will make sure that rotor spins straight. Anti-seize on threads is also a must to make it easier the next time around.

I also just tighten to where it feels right too. I'm kinda old skool on a lot of stuff.

S4's are not the same as the S, but they are held on just like them so everything you wrote applies