Time to upgrade Jeff NJ's 930 - Page 5

krasuskyp · 03-22-2015, 06:29 AM

Quite righteous werk there Jeff, and agreed w/ Ken - yer crushing it this wintar!

The feeling you are going to get every time you set eyes upon your motor or go for a whirl now going forward will be immense satisfaction and major PRIDE with what you DIY'd!!!

ubercool

And I sadly / pathetically / unfortunately also agree with Kenster... I've been a total loaf this winter too regarding even laying eyes upon my car. I walk past it, go in the WARM HOUSE.

sigh

SUCKS

I've got a Wevo to install and some 100w/130w's

... shouldn't be an eve's effort, but alas..........

Jeff NJ · 03-22-2015, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxrken

Jeff, you're killing it this winter! Super motivating. I just have to reinstall my headers, redo a cv boot, and adjust my valves and for some reason I walk out to the garage, flip the light on, look at the car for a minute and go back in the house. I've helped out on a few other cars lately but can't look at mine right now.
Thanks for the boost!

Thanks Ken. The trick is getting started. For me, it was after I saw my first CC bill when buying things, I said "Crap! I better put this stuff in now!" Once started, it has become nearly an obsession. Since I live alone when I don't have my kids, my entire house is starting to get parts strewn all over. My office is completely filled with parts I have taken off. My living room has my seats. I was using my kitchen sink to clean parts the other day. I finished and just left them on the counter to dry. (Try that, you married guys...) Makes it easier to keep going instead of cleaning up all the time.

Spring is here (well, except for the snow on Friday), so get going!!

Ronnie's.930 · 10:43 AM

^^^ Hilarious Jeff - yer home/shop situation basically mirrors mine! BUTT I'll add that my home, interior rooms also serve as "drying areas" for freshly painted parts - not talking about only a bracket or two I just rattled canned, but complete aircraft interior panel sets that just had a quart of urethane sprayed on them and so forth (anything I can fit through the outside doors, in other words)! On, and I also use the kitchen oven to bake parts in!

Jeff NJ · 03-22-2015, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

^^^ Hilarious Jeff - yer home/shop situation basically mirrors mine! BUTT I'll add that my home, interior rooms also serve as "drying areas" for freshly painted parts - not talking about only a bracket or two I just rattled canned, but complete aircraft interior panel sets that just had a quart of urethane sprayed on them and so forth (anything I can fit through the outside doors, in other words)! On, and I also use the kitchen oven to bake parts in!

Are you married Ronnie? If so, you have a very understanding wife. I know my ex wouldn't have put up with my project taking over the house.

You building airplanes too? Cool! I am sticking to engine tins and the like for my painting and that stays in the garage. I had to leave my 4Runner outside for the first time this winter because of the painting I was doing. I was not happy in the morning. Yes I know, first world problems complaining about parking outside one night for the entire winter.

Jeff NJ · 03-26-2015, 09:48 PM

All fuel lines done!
Len Cummings apparently had never fabricated late model 930 lines before, so I sent him my old ones and he created them. They are excellent. His service is second to none. I mentioned that one of the rear lines was a little tight and without asking, he shipped me out a new one just a little longer the same day. It is now perfect. He also shipped me the bushings and told me when I get mine from Pelican, to just send them to him with the old line. Who does that?? So impressed.
I pulled the tunnel lines through in literally 5 minutes with his coupler. The one metal clip in front of the shifter was a slight hangup, but that's it. The front lines were a bear! Getting it through the hanger over the steering rack caused much cursing and swearing, but I got it done. Removing my bump steer shims was required to get the clearance to feed them through.

Anyone with later model 930's that needs fuel lines, Len now has the exact setup. Highly recommended!

A couple pics:

Jeff NJ · 03-27-2015, 09:00 PM

What's this?
A hooligan, you say?
Why, yes it is!

Dry fit it tonight with the k27hfs and with a little modification of the turbo mount bracket, it bolted right up!

Love it!

krasuskyp · 03-28-2015, 04:52 AM

Well done dewd! Tits, huh?

Awesome on the fuel lines, and agreed - Len's da man!

I helped my bud up the street run his Len lines thru his SC tunnel last week - not particularly fun. And that was WITH the rack removed.

The fronts were easy as such. But, one line fitting kept snagging an edged lip within the rear of boxed tunnel... took some creativity to surmount. Fun stuff.

b5aar · 03-28-2015, 12:14 PM

That is freekin nice!

Jeff NJ · 04-01-2015, 11:35 AM

Got the Turbokraft IC mounted last night.

Spent a good bit of time on the phone with Chris Carroll, who helped me immensely!

81Kremer930 · 81Kremer930's Garage

^^^^ Beautiful job! I've got an almost identical setup on my car.. TurboKraft intercooler and all.... You'll love it! I went dual exit muffler, but I must say, I like your setup as well! Good luck and thanks for the updates! You should have a great spring/summer sir!

Jeff NJ · 04-02-2015, 09:03 PM

It was finally a nice day and I was actually home early, so it was time to clean the transmission with a power-washer.
I also replaced the shift shaft seal (leaking trans fluid), repainted the trans mount bar and replaced the trans mounts with Elephant Racing mounts that are a little stiffer, for better shifting.

Before:

Jeff NJ · 04-02-2015, 09:05 PM

And after:

Sperr diff = Locking differential

krasuskyp · 04-03-2015, 04:54 AM

DAYUM

I ohsototally couldashoulda power washed mine - just brushed w/ degreaser, etc. DUMBMASS.

That came out niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice.

Excellent werk, dewd!

Weather's a-comin, and you've turned the corner nicely - yer almost there!

Jeff NJ · 04-06-2015, 06:51 PM

As we know, part of getting all the HP you can out of these air-cooled cars is sealing off the engine bay as best as possible, so the air getting pulled in by the fan must go through the intercooler as much as possible. Good sealing is like free horsepower.
With that in mind, I replaced the foam seal in the front of the engine bay with high quality foam and made it seal better than it was from the factory.

Also replaced the foam sound pad in the front firewall, and cleaned and lubed the flapper valves for the cabin heat.

Running the vacuum hoses tonight for the blow-off valve, the vacuum limiter and the Vacuum/boost gauge.

Jeff NJ · 04-06-2015, 06:52 PM

Anyone do anything trick with sealing up the holes in the engine tins where the hoses went through that are no longer needed? Trying to find solid rubber plugs to put in there without much luck.

speednme1 · 04-07-2015, 03:50 AM

Jeff I've heard that a good seal around the intercooler is a huge plus but sealing the rest of the holes might be a waste of time. The fan pulls in air for the engine not the intercooler...sealing the holes might be counter productive...that fan needs all the air it can get...then again I could be completely wrong with my assesment..

p.s.....love your project..

Jeff NJ · 04-07-2015, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speednme1

Jeff I've heard that a good seal around the intercooler is a huge plus but sealing the rest of the holes might be a waste of time. The fan pulls in air for the engine not the intercooler...sealing the holes might be counter productive...that fan needs all the air it can get...then again I could be completely wrong with my assesment..

p.s.....love your project..

Hey Rey! Thanks!

I could be completely wrong with my assessment too

, but this is the way I see it: The fan doesn't care where the air comes from. The air will always come from the path of least resistance, regardless where that hole is in the engine bay. If the tins were off, that would dramatically increase the airflow around the engine where the tins were and would reduce the air coming through the IC that is more resistant to flow. By closing off as much as possible, especially big holes, the IC becomes the path of least resistance for most air, which is the goal. You are correct that the engine needs a specific amount of airflow for proper cooling. The trick is to have only enough open spaces so that as much air as possible goes through the IC.

For example: If you need 100 cubic ft per minute (CFM) of airflow (random number as an example) over the engine for proper cooling, and the IC is capable of 70 CFM, ideally, you would want to close off as much as possible around the engine so that only 30 CFM comes from elsewhere. If you can get 60CFM from holes around the engine or IC because it is not blocked off, all 60 of the required 100 would come from here because it is the path of least resistance. Then only 40 would come through the IC, which robs HP. As long as you get your required 100CFM, the engine will be happy. Maximizing airflow through the IC makes it more efficient.

Since I have the AC condenser on my decklid too, those two combined are more than enough airflow for the engine cooling, so, IMO, closing up all the other air access paths is helpful and increases IC and AC efficiency.

Thoughts?

JFairman · 04-07-2015, 10:06 AM

Looks like you're doing a nice neat job on everything Jeff.
For that hole on the right side tin that has a nice little folded up edge so it won't cut into a rubber hose I ran a hose from the top of the 930 oil seperator down through it and then I put one of those K&N type breather filters on the end about 2" below the tins bottom surface.
My car had the air pump system on it when I got it and I removed it because we don't have emission testing in Florida. I used the original long air pump hose that crossed over the top of the engine for that.

I did this because I don't like running blow by fumes back into the intake and letting it vent into the engine compartment is not good because you'll be breathing blowby fumes when running heat or defroster heat in the winter as the engine fan will be sucking in some of the blowby fumes and it is the source of hot air for interior heat and windsheild defrosting during cold weather.

For the rest of the open engine tin holes rubber plugs might work but if they are above the turbocharger the intense heat will dry out a rubber plug in a few months. If you can find silicone rubber plugs they will work well.

For the original turbo drip tank engine tin vent hose hole that is right above the turbo I used two large washers.. one above and one below the tin with a bolt and nut holding them together to plug the hole. Then I painted them black with black exhaust header paint.

Jeff NJ · 04-07-2015, 10:43 AM

Thanks for the good ideas Jim.
Is there any good reason to vent the drip tank? The one I am getting can be vented, but doesn't have to be. I'm leaning toward not venting since I have no airbox anymore to vent it to...

Jeff NJ · 04-16-2015, 09:56 PM

So I think I am done with my motor.
The IC is completely plumbed and installed.
All vacuum lines have been re-run removing the relays and all the rest of the emissions junk. (air pumps, air injectors, etc) Gotta be 25 lbs of crap removed.
The TiAl wastegate is installed with a 1.0 bar spring. Check out the dump pipe in the pic below! When I hit full boost and the wastegate opens up, it is just a glorious sound.
Turbo drip tank is installed.
All engine tins are installed. Still working on sealing them up per Jim's advice above.
Airbox is removed and replaced with K&N filter, (Thanks Will - aka Oldspool87!)saving lots of weight up high on the engine.
New motor mount crossbar is installed.

Now I have to pull if off the engine stand, remove the flywheel and get it resurfaced. Then I install the new clutch with the flywheel, connect the trans to the motor and I'm ready to put it back into the car!