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Rich76_911s's Avatar
 
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Engine Rebuild Rich76-Style

I've started the process of the engine rebuild on 930.

Getting it out went relatively smoothly.



My PPI at Zuffenhausen showed decent leakdown numbers past the rings on the #6 cylinder, so I knew the time was coming. In addition the motor has gone 95K+ miles.

I’m following the path laid by Jacab (jwasbury) pretty closely. I plan on taking the engine apart down to the crank and building it back up, with the goal of building a very solid platform to later put mods onto. In the end I’d like to build a street motor more than a peak horsepower motor.
In it's current for the car is nearly stock except for Fabspeed headers and muffler, a Brian Leask WUR and his RPM soleniod.
The Plan:
1. ARP Rod Bolts
2. Crank magnafluxed and Micropolished
3. GT3 Main Bearings – coated
4. GT3 Rod Bearings - Coated
5. 3.5L slip fit LN Cylinders with 7.5:1 JE Pistons Thanks Tate!!
6. SC Cams  Jacob may have a set from his racecar
7. Have Heads rebuilt
a. Drilled for second set of plugs
b. Ported to (ANY SUGGESTIONS ON PORTING)
8. ARP Headstuds
9. Fuel head was sent to Rarly8 to be modified. GOODBYE Lamda System

I seriously considered going EFI, but in the end I think sticking with CIS is part of the fun of having an old car. I know it’s far from perfect, but it works well enough for my baby blue Buick grandpa style of driving.

I’m 100% open to suggestions, ideas, and guidance. I’ve torn an engine down before, but this is my first time rebuilding one.

Thanks already for the suggestions and pointers from Turbokraft, Jacob, Brian at Rarly8, and Tate!

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Last edited by Rich76_911s; 02-16-2016 at 09:04 PM..
Old 02-16-2016, 09:01 PM
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So teardown began. Wow this is a beast of an engine to teardown compared to the 3.2L I had previously worked on. Fuel Lines, Vacuum lines, oil lines, and wires galore. I think I have a solid 15 minutes of video on my iPhone tracing where all this Shhhiii-stuff goes! Ontop of the videos I used a solid 3/4ths of a roll of blue tape labeling everything!



Finally got the spiderweb untangled enough to remove the engine shroud.




Rhutt Rhooo Shaggy first problem found. Broken headstud on the intake of the #6 cylinder. All the rest appear to be intact. What's the over/under on the number I break trying to remove them? ? ?



I never saw the barrel nut so this must've happened a while ago.

Then the #6 exhaust valve. Ewww it is awfully disgusting in there.



Other than those two things so far the engine looks pretty good. I'm thinking it might not have ever been apart before, which seems pretty remarkable for a 1987 930 with 95K miles on it. Case doesn't appear to have ever been split, and who would take the heads off and leave divilar in there? ? ?

So that is where we stand on 2/17/16. Thanks to my wife for the valentines day garage time!
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:17 PM
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That engine bay pic is hilarious - well done right thar!

Too bad that headstud is broken off so close to the base (just the way Paul treats his "studs" ) . . . is there anything there to weld a nut to, or is it broken off flush with the bore? At least that broken stud explains all the blow-by (different than Norm's idea of "blow-bi" ) between the cylinder and head on #6.

Glad to see another dude not afraid to modify these cars!

Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 02-17-2016 at 08:50 AM..
Old 02-16-2016, 09:31 PM
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Old 02-17-2016, 03:16 AM
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Pro tip - if you must label, use the green automotive painters tape. The blue adhesive will not hold up.
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:27 PM
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Rich,

Another tip for you. When you drop parts at the machine shop, bring them the case as well. Let them pull the old studs out for you. They can hot tank the case too and get the majority of grime off it, leaving you to do the fine cleaning work and sealant surface prep.

Were you able to make contact with Verden Tool?
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Old 02-17-2016, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for the tips. Gotta go get me some green tape.

No luck with contacting verden tool. Their phone line seems not to be working still. Been trying every day for the past 2 weeks.
Old 02-17-2016, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16Volt View Post
Pro tip - . . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwasbury View Post
Rich,

Another tip for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich76_911s View Post
Thanks for the tips.


Just the . . . ?!?!?

Old 02-17-2016, 03:15 PM
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let me follow up on that...I said I would but haven't executed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich76_911s View Post
No luck with contacting verden tool. Their phone line seems not to be working still. Been trying every day for the past 2 weeks.
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Old 02-17-2016, 03:30 PM
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Man Ronnie you're mind is in the gutter

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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB
-Marine Blue '87 930
Old 02-17-2016, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwasbury View Post
let me follow up on that...I said I would but haven't executed.
No worries Jacob.
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"The reason most people give up is because they look at how far they have to go, not how far they have come." -Bruce Anderson via FB
-Marine Blue '87 930
Old 02-17-2016, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
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Man Ronnie you're mind is in the gutter
^^^
Always!



Ha ha - "A little game called just the tip" - hilarious line from that clip!
Old 02-17-2016, 03:44 PM
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Looks like you may have just enough stud to grip on to - vise grips. but you will need heat to get it going easy. Practise on the good ones first - til you get a good feel for it. 2 or 3 and you should be comfortable. I use oxy /propane. but you want to get as much heat as possible in a short time around the base of the stud (more so than the stud). You are trying to heat the area around the stud to loosen the bonding to the case. If you get the stud too hot it just goes soft. Lean on the practise studs moderately hard and keep heating the base. You will suddenly feel them come soft/free. You can stop heating then and just keep them moving. But I think you will be able to get it out. A decent shop will get at it by various means. But there is a good chance you can do it at home.
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 02-17-2016, 04:22 PM
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I see a broken stud but it's up by the head. The head will slide off with it and there's still around 3" of stud in the case. It may not be hard to remove.
Old 02-17-2016, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
I see a broken stud but it's up by the head. The head will slide off with it and there's still around 3" of stud in the case. It may not be hard to remove.
Correct. I wasn't looking close enough. You got PLENTY to work with. No problem.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 02-17-2016, 05:39 PM
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Old 02-17-2016, 05:43 PM
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That exhaust port looks horrible! It was definitely time to rebuild.

GL, it's fairly fun.
Old 02-17-2016, 05:49 PM
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Ha! yep, Jim's right - I was looking at it "backwards" - too funny!
Old 02-17-2016, 06:12 PM
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NOICE Rich! Good fer you, that takes stones certainly.

Hellhairyass engine bay pic - looks like yer boffing yer motor. Maybe you are?

Damn, nasty lookin stuff in thar - cleaning all that up is quite rewarding.

Good luck as you progress!
Old 02-17-2016, 06:45 PM
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Hey Rich,
Ahahh, so this is where you have been hanging out! Sure looks like it was time for the rebuild.
I'll be following with great interest so keep posting.
P.S. Close to firing up the RST.
Johan

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Old 02-17-2016, 07:20 PM
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