Perfect explanation exactly what I was looking for.

More progress tonight. Jacked rear of car up. Supported engine on floor jack. Removed rear engine tin, removed engine support bracket bolts, and then engine mount bolts.
I was then able to remove engine support bracket and support beam in one piece, exposing crank pulley.

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Nice work. The engine looks really clean.

I put the tranny in 3rd gear, put parking brake on, and crank bolt came loose very easily.
Old GSF pulley looks to be in good shape.
Test fit new pulley and VR sensor. No issues that I can see. What should gap be set at?
1 mm?

I torqued pulley bolt to 59 ft.lbs. as per Bentley manual.

I did temporarily install engine support bracket and support beam, just so I could get under engine easily to remove oil pump. That's tomorrow nights job.


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Here is my proposed location for Cam sensor.

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Was thinking about temperature sensors.
I am currently running the Bosch Cylinder Head Temperature sensor. This is a single wire and I don't have the exact thermistor values. I am also concerned that with it being a single wire there is no sensor return wire.
Should I be concern about this? On my old SDS system this sensor work well, gave quick warmup values, although not to sure about it's accuracy. I was wondering if any one else is using this type of sensor? Should I consider going to a GM Coolant temp sensor, and if so where is the best place to locate. I understand these are 3/8 NPT threads. What about oil chimney at rear of engine. Is it simply a case of tapping the old sensor location for 3/8 NPT?

Was given this link on Megasquirt Facebook page.
https://www.porscherepair.us/porsche-911-1984-1989/cylinder-head-temperature-sensor-testing.html

Stick with the head temp, oil temp is too slow.

I will give it a shot. I noticed in Tunerstudio there is a setting for a VW CHT sensor.

Your torque setting on the crankshaft bolt seemed a lot lower than I remembered setting mine at. So I checked in Waynes book. According to Wayne the 59 ft/lbs is for engines without AC, engines with AC get 125.3 ft/lbs of torque.

Just wanted to pass that information along.

Awesome progress.

Rich

Thanks Rich, I will re-torque. I probably will never run AC again, but good to know.

Crank bolt retorqued to 125 lbs.ft. Got the oil pump out. I have to pickup a 12mmx1 tap to tap hole for sensor. Sensor is a Hamlin 55075-02. It has pickup resistor.

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I was wondering if I should use a little JB Weld to lock the sensor nuts in place? Or perhaps some Blue Locktite.

I completely agree that the ms3pro is absolutely great. The best thing about it is that it is easy to wire and setup. And works like a charm!

Use the blue loctite, you don't want JB Weld on the threads.

Clewett makes a great solution for the cam sensor.
1978-98 Cam sync adapter w/sensor [1001-61] - $190.00 : Clewett Engineering, The complete solution for ignition & fuel injection

Hoping to be up and running this Sunday if every thing goes well. Really just plug and play from here.

Hi guys

Today I got the oil pump modified for full sequential. Took me approximately 3 hrs to remove the pump assembly, disassemble, drill and tap the housing, test fit, find crank position on compression 90d BTDC, Drilled and tap cam pulley. Installed cam pulley, set cam sensor and pulley bolt clearance to 1mm. Used blue locktite. Then reassembled oil pump, reinstalled lines. Also managed to get rear engine tin back on. Along with exhaust mount bracket. Tomorrow I will be concentrate on installing wiring harnesses.

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I was wondering if someone could provide me with a startup or base tune?

What are most people using for tuning, laptop, tablet, raspberry Pi?

I will make sure I do a video of first start.