Longer stroke motors are better for torque. The way to get power is to spin faster and short stoke motors can spin faster. That is their advantage. For a purely street car, I would prefer a long stroke 3.2 versus a short stroke 3.2 because of the better torque characteristics. But that may just be me....

Scott

At any rate, I'm excited about the build and look forward to getting it back. I'll post dyno results when I get them.

Todd

Just beautious todd. Are those the "new" headers ..they look to be smaller diameter than the ones you have for sale...what is reasoning? Good luck with it... Do post some dyno data cheers frank

Thanks Frank ;-)

I think they are actually larger. They are 1 3/4 inch. The ones I'm selling are 1.625 OD, which I'm guessing is 1.5" ID. The big difference is the length of the primaries. The new ones are a better fit for my carbs.

I think the RarlyL8's are perfect for you ;-).

Well, Mike is certainly moving much faster than I am. I've almost got my tranny resealed, but still need to install (well, haven't even bought it) an oil cooler, figure out my gas lines, order the FP regulator, etc.

Anyway, some pics today from Mike showing his progress -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374009838.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374009862.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374009878.jpg


Todd

Note the big degree wheel. That's a guy who knows the "resolution" of the small crank pulley can make for some difficult/inconsistent cam timing. "Blow up" the resolution with the degree wheel and you can be much more precis with cam timing.

Solid chain tensioners on a street engine? Why'd you choose those? Not being critical. Just asking because regular tensioners, be they Carrera-style or not, are set-and-forget. The solid/mechanical tensioners require a cold setting of 1.5mm clearance and then periodic checks later on.

You're in good hands with Mike!

He might be using those cam tensioners to set the timing. Noticed those too. He has my oil fed tensioners at the shop.

CR came in at 10.55!!

Todd

Ah of course. Using the solid tensioners for setup. Duh, should have realized that myself!

Congrats on hitting 10.5 on the mark. Must have a good set of heads! My heads had been fiddled with so much that I could barely get 10.0

Speaking of the rods, I think the stock rods were a good choice for the street engine. Stock rod weight vs. Pauter rod weight is same. I measured them both recently and have both for my 3.2SS.

Our former MotoDelta flagship had stock SC rods in it's 3.3SS for many years and hours. Never seemed to be a shortcoming in that engine. Spun it to 7500 and produced 248 WHP quite easily- JE 10.5 comp pistons, LN Nickies, 46 Webers with Web 120/104 cams. Not really that stressed. Good engine it was.

Downside to the long stroke 3.2 IMO is the heavier crank and the wimpier rods, despite the additional torque. Point being is I think the better rods are more important in the 3.2, 3.6 stock engines. The crank and rod 3.0/SC foundation is pretty solid!

The stock rods are fine if you rev less than 7500 AND you don't make a money shift.....

Scott

Gorgeous.

Heads are "virgin" 3.2 heads that have been twin plugged, valve job and some mild port work done.

Todd

There are multiple benefits to building a 3.2SS.
First, the 3.0 crank is used and the rod & journal design is far superior to that of the 3.2 crank.
Another benefit to the 3.0 crank and rod configuration is rod length to stroke ratio.
As Porsche engines got longer stroke cranks they also got shorter rods.
Short rod length to stroke ratios create greater rod angularity (friction) and less piston dell. (reducing combustion efficiency).

As for the 3.0 rods: they are more than adequate for this engine configuration. The Mod S cams employed in this build are all out of power around 7000 or even 7200 if all the numbers are right. 7200 is well within the limits of the 3.0 rod with ARP bolts.
Especially when you consider the proposed street use of the engine.

Appreciate you chiming in Henry!!

Todd

Yes, for a racing engine all those things you mention are important. My point was that for a street engine, the 3.2 short stroke is not necessarily better. If one is keeping the stock rev limiter, the long stroke 3.2 offers some advantages over the short stroke 3.2.

I only mentioned the rods because most people build a short stroke 3.2 so they can generate more revs....

Scott

lookin beautiful toddu..go for it!! love the gold case bolts .. very bling bling!! frank

Generally, people build short stroke 3.2 liter engines because they own 3.0 liters and they're looking for "more".
Just like the OP. He has a 3.0 case which might suggest that he started with a 3.0.
Add some 98mm pistons and cylinders and you're there. After that, adding ancillary items to customize your build become personal preference.

There is no "best", just a reasonable answer to "what cool engine can I build with what I have?"

Few more updates from Mike -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374795231.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374795325.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374795399.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374795513.jpg

That's "Denver" (gorgeous) as quoted by Mitch Martin- Old School, 2003

Home stretch!!!
 

I'm almost going to hate putting it back in the car :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375196288.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375196336.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375196417.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375196556.jpg