3.2SS twin plug underway
 

I've left my build to the very capable hands of Mike Bruns. He was kind enough to send me some pics now that some of the major components are in hand.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372428858.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372428876.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372428995.jpg


Toddhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372429080.jpg

great pictures ! You are going to love working with them! Mike is a great guy!

If you say it is twin plug, then you must be getting one of the JB Racing twin plug distributors. They are awesome works of art, the best ones we have ever used.
Keep us updated on the progress. We have one in a 3.6 engine on the dyno as I type.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372436268.jpg

WOW!! That's a beauty!

Yes, I'm absolutely using the JB Racing twin plug distributor.

Some of the other specs -

• 46 PMO
• 3.2 Heads
• Cross drilled crank
• GT3 bearings/modified oiling
• ~ 10.5:1
• Dual MSD
• 964 Oil pump
• Lightweight flywheel/PP

Ah...the memories...I love the old Burrette system for checking head volume.
I think I still have one hiding around here some place.
Yay Mike....LOL.
Bob

Camshaft, air filter and muffler choice?

Elgin Mod-S cams.

I'll most likely use K&N filters with rain shields, but not 100% on that yet (haven't thought that far ahead).

Muffler is also undecided at this point. I *just* had my rear valance blasted, retextured and repainted, so I'm not excited about cutting it for dual out. Maybe I'll get a fiberglass one that has dual cutouts and stick mine on a shelf or something. Might go "custom" with Magnaflow.

Todd

Here's a shot of the MSD install. Still need to snake the wires through the firewall and put them in some heat shrink or something.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372441343.jpg

Before you put your trigger wires that go to the JB distributor in sheathing, it is a good idea to do the "twisted pair" method on them. Can't hurt, since I don't know how one checks for EMI in the engine bay. I also do the wires going to the ignition coils.

Here is a quote from an engineer....

•Twisted-pair wires provide an effective shield that helps protect sensitive electronic components from electrical interference. If the wires were covered with shielding, install new shielding. In order to prevent electrical interference from degrading the performance of the connected components, you must maintain the proper specification when making any repairs to the twisted-pair wires shown:
•◦The wires must be twisted a minimum of 9 turns per 31 cm (12 in) as measured anywhere along the length of the wires
◦The outside diameter of the twisted wires must not exceed 6.0 mm (0.25 in)

Nice Pauter rods!

Those pistons look like the off-the-shelf std. issue for 10.5? I have/had a set of those.

I suspect Mike had your pistons spec'd based on what volume he got for the heads? Otherwise the comp ratio will it just end up at whatever number results from your head volume & off the shelf piston dome volume

Sounds like it'll be a great engine. 3.2SS is a nice one to build

Not my rods :-)

Yes, they are off the shelf 10.5. Should end up somewhere between 10.2 - 10.5, which should be fine.

Todd

Progress
 

A few more pics complements of Mike -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373644684.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373644774.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373645029.jpg


Todd

Nice shiny #8 (OE Porsche?) and 964 pump

Any reason to groove the bearing (#4) instead of the crank? Reason I ask is because I see for instance Ollies grooves the crank journal

Crank gets cross drilled. Think they work together.

Thanks for sharing. My MSD is currently mounted in the bay and gets toasty. I was thinking about where I could mount it to keep it cooler... I was thinking in the bonnet up front as I've been using the back seat a lot.

Yep. You can groove the bearing like your picture shows or you can groove the crank itself at the same bearing location

I thought grooving crank would be simpler for future bearing replacement. Meaning, only need to enlarge hole in the bearing but not groove it

Why stock rods? What are you going to set the rev limit to?

Scott

It's a street car. Stock rods should be plenty. Decided to spend the money elsewhere.

Todd

I asked because the advantage a short stroke engine has over a more stock stroke is that you can spin it faster. If you are going to spin it faster than stock, you would want better rods. If aren't going to spin it faster, why build a short stoke?

Anyway.....

Scott

I believe there are several arguments for SS, not just spinning higher RPM. I think in stock configuration it's the rod bolts that are the weak point. I've upgraded to ARP.

Todd