Woodworking and carpentry thread

[1990C4S]

^^ Try some oxalic acid, or even pool chlorine. Mine cleaned up with chlorine. But mine aren't cedar.

[911 Rod]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

^^ Try some oxalic acid, or even pool chlorine. Mine cleaned up with chlorine. But mine aren't cedar.

They are worn from the wind and rain. So the outside layer has all the juice gone if that makes sense. They are a bit fuzzy and you can stick your fingernail in the grooves. I need to take them down a bit.
There was never a finish on them and they lasted 10 years so I'm not sure I want to put a finish on them after sanding.
I think I'll pick up a 20V Dewalt orbital sander.

[gregpark]

Your palm sander will do fine. Even just hand sanding. New 220 folded in thirds and changed out frequently will get the chairs smooth to the touch. Oil them after and call it good. First rain will raise the grain and make them rough again but oiling will help keep your sanding job baby butt smooth baby!

[911 Rod]

I have a lot of paper for the palm sander.
What type of oil do you suggest?

[gregpark]

Tung oil, teak oil whatever. Actually any oil that doesn't stink and you don't mind coming into contacting with your skin.

[TimT]

There was a woodworking show at the Cradle of Aviation Museum this past weekend...

I scored a nice piece of Spalted Maple for my next project...this is piece is really gnarly.. The grain really popped when wet with alcohol

[masraum]

Originally Posted by TimT

There was a woodworking show at the Cradle of Aviation Museum this past weekend...

I scored a nice piece of Spalted Maple for my next project...this is piece is really gnarly.. The grain really popped when wet with alcohol

Nice. Sadly, I don't really think we have any/much woodworking stuff around here.

[herr_oberst]

The Stanley #55 plane. What a machine. What a work of art. USA! USA!

Watch it in use at minute 20 of this video...

[masraum]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

The Stanley #55 plane. What a machine. What a work of art. USA! USA!

Watch it in use at minute 20 of this video...

Very cool. I think there are several similar planes that were intended to replace other wooden planes, 42-55 covers them. Some are more simple like a plow/plough plane, dado plane, combination plane (45 and 55, I think), etc.... I think the 55 is the juggernaut that does everything.

It's interesting, this guy, Patrick, has a website where he reviews almost every Stanley plane known to man. He is not a fan of the 55.

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Planes #55 - #57

Bought it. Used it. Hated it. Sold it.

The Great Zeus Himself thought His sentence of Prometheus to be the ultimate punishment for mankind, and throughout the millenia it was. That is, until the year 1897 when Messrs. Justus Traut and Edmund Schade devised a torture that knew no bounds betwixt Gods and mortals. We should all be so lucky to be chained to a rock and have our livers eaten daily by an organ-hungry raptor than to suffer the agony of this contraption. Even the Chinese would have gladly abandoned their infamous drip, drip, drip of water to the forehead had they been on Stanley's favored nations tradelist. If there can be a ball and chain of planes, this is it, baby.

Down in Australia this chunk of metal has been used as a doorstop (no lie). Here in America, it's been used as a woodworking tool. Now, you tell me which nation is more civilized? And since I'm on a roll slamming this tool, why stop here? Stanley advertised that the #55 was "A planing mill in itself." More like "A paining kill in itself" is a befitting slogan for the tool. Over in Greece, sponge divers tie these things around their waists as ballast to get them to the briney depths sooner. In India, swamis position a few dozen of them in a rectangular fashion and then have a snooze atop them.

This plane certainly is one clever chunk of metal design. With the success of the #45, and other Stanley combination planes, it wasn't long before Stanley produced this. The timing was perfect for its introduction, since metal planes of all sorts had proliferated for some 30 years prior, which meant there would be little objection from those guys trained in the "old school" (they were dead, dying, or feeble), and the wooden plane business was all but dead. Also, what pitiful few moldings that were fashionable at the time were simple profiles, which the #55 could handle. Had the complex Grecian profiles still been popular, this plane might never gotten off the ground.

Put simply, it's a temperamental monster that requires much fussing with in order for it to work well. Were you in the need to make a short run of molding, it may be a suitable alternative to a wooden plane. However, for any profile that you plan to stick over and over, a dedicated wooden plane is preferable. Why? Wooden molding planes are self-regulating; i.e., they have a fixed fence, a fixed profile, and a fixed depth stop. The #55 also has these three necessities, but none of them are fixed; they are all variable and require a great amount of skill/patience to get them to work perfectly. This fact doesn't rear its ugly head so much when sticking a profile with a single cutter (say an ogee), but it surely does when using a combination of cutters to stick a profile that normally can be found in a wooden plane. It also suffers the same deficiency that the #45 does regarding stock selection - the wood must be even-grained to minimize tearout, since there is no mouth, in the true sense of the word, on this plane.

What I'd really love to have is one of these (Stanley No.41 or No.44, less because of functionality, and more because of the form. You can read about them here.
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan5.htm

No 41


No 44

[masraum]

The real piece de resistance, however is an old, wooden plough/plow/grooving plane.

Even basic models are pretty cool. (This one, with a selection of cutters, will likely set you back $100-200 depending upon your market and other details)





But many/most toolmakers used the wooden plow plane to showcase their ability to make an amazing plane. THat's when you get the premium models.
Here's one, basically the same as the above, but made out of rosewood and boxwood. $500-600


Ebony, boxwood, and nickel $1000-1500


Ebony, boxwood, nickel, ivory $5000-6000


And the grand daddy of them all, the Sandusky ivory and ebony center wheel plow plane.

Rednersville Loyalist: Sandusky Plow Plane in Ebony & Ivory

At one time, the powers that be in the upper echelons of The Sandusky Tool Company created an exhibition-class center-wheel plow plane. The plane was intended for show only and may have been part of the Sandusky display at the 1876 Centennial Exposition.

The plane consists of an ebony body with the improved beveled handle, ebony fence, ivory arms, bushings, bridle, fence wear plate, wedge, and decorative buttons. The metal skate, center wheel, and arm-attachment nuts, as well as the blade, are all nickel-plated. Of course, being a presentation plane, it has never been used and consequently is in original condition showing slight nickel loss on the skate and blade.

this beauty went up for auction this morning at the Sheraton Inn, Harrisburg, where it was expected to go for something in the range of $40,000 to $60,000 US Dollars, according to the auctioneers.

"Jay Ziegler of Hershey who called the auction said the bidding on the tool opened at $64,000. It quickly rose to $90,000 between phone bidders, which brought a silence in the hotel's ballroom. When the bids from the phoners rose to $100,000 and $102,000, respectively, the crowd applauded, Ziegler said.

When the phone bidding ended, Ziegler scanned the audience for potential bidders. At $104,000, a hand went up from the floor. The crowd roared. The winning bidder is a collector in Pennsylvania. The final price with a 10 percent buyer's premium was $114,000."

[MBAtarga]

I'll elaborate more on this story later - but for now I leave this link and a screen grab picture:

https://hamlertools.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Sandusky-miniature

[TimT]

Always have trouble posting vids from Facebook, but..



The master of woodworking joints

[Scott Douglas]

So I'm out in the garage this morning gluing the second corner of a picture frame I'm making out of a mirror frame and my wife comes out and says she would like me to fix the water stain on her jewelry case. I'm thinking it's no big deal, a little stain will fix it right up. Then I go in the bedroom to see what she's actually talking about.

I had my jewelry cases mixed up. This one has a parque(sp?) top to it.



How do I proceed?

I like working with wood to the extent you sand with the grain to get it smooth, then you add stain and polyurethane to make it shiny.

Help!

[herr_oberst]

Man, too bad Zeke has dropped off the board again. This is right up his alleyway.

Can't help you other than suggest the university of Youtube.

[masraum]

Often those things will clear, sometimes completely, on their own after moving the glass/cup/mug.

I don't know anything about this, but...

[masraum]

I hadn't watched the video. I just watched. Very cool, although it only works on finishes that are alcohol soluble.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

I'll elaborate more on this story later - but for now I leave this link and a screen grab picture:

https://hamlertools.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Sandusky-miniature

While I was searching for good pics of the original sandusky plane, I found several links and photos about these miniatures. Wow!

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

So I'm out in the garage this morning gluing the second corner of a picture frame I'm making out of a mirror frame and my wife comes out and says she would like me to fix the water stain on her jewelry case. I'm thinking it's no big deal, a little stain will fix it right up. Then I go in the bedroom to see what she's actually talking about.

I had my jewelry cases mixed up. This one has a parque(sp?) top to it.



How do I proceed?

I like working with wood to the extent you sand with the grain to get it smooth, then you add stain and polyurethane to make it shiny.

Help!

A second possibility

[TimT]

Blocking and wet sanding..my arms are getting a workout




That dark line is a joint between two resin pours I need to knock down

[masraum]

That looks like A LOT of work.