Woodworking and carpentry thread

[herr_oberst]

Damn, greg, you're good at making silk purses.

[gregpark]

Thanks, it's ok. I'm not signing it :^)
To those interested on my finish:
1st coat-1 part Linseed oil, 1 part oil based urethane, 1 part mineral spirits, 2 tbl.spoons dark stain. Let dry for 2 or 3 days
2nd and 3rd coats- 1 part mineral spirits, 2 parts urethane. Light hand sand between coats.
Tomorrow is 3rd and final coat

[masraum]

Originally Posted by gregpark

Thanks, it's ok. I'm not signing it :^)
To those interested on my finish:
1st coat-1 part Linseed oil, 1 part oil based urethane, 1 part mineral spirits, 2 tbl.spoons dark stain. Let dry for 2 or 3 days
2nd and 3rd coats- 1 part mineral spirits, 2 parts urethane. Light hand sand between coats.
Tomorrow is 3rd and final coat

saved for future reference...

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by gregpark

Thanks, it's ok. I'm not signing it :^)
To those interested on my finish:
1st coat-1 part Linseed oil, 1 part oil based urethane, 1 part mineral spirits, 2 tbl.spoons dark stain. Let dry for 2 or 3 days
2nd and 3rd coats- 1 part mineral spirits, 2 parts urethane. Light hand sand between coats.
Tomorrow is 3rd and final coat

Boiled linseed oil? I am going to try this finish on a rustic bench I built from scraps I found in a slash pile that needs to be refinished every year. I'd like to try your secret recipe to try to create a more uniform finish. Colors here are all over the map using something called 'frog finish' the last few years.
(This is actually square and smooth to the touch but a trick of the light makes it look like it's very textured and wonky)

[gregpark]

Yes, boiled Linseed oil.
Another surprisingly good outdoor finish is melted bees wax mixed with boiled Linseed oil and turpentine. Water beads right off

[gregpark]

To get a more uniformed coloring try hitting it with a wood conditioner first. Water or oil based depending on your choice of finish

[TimT]

I think I finally gathered the wood for my next project

L-R

Birdseye Maple

Curly Maple

Purpleheart

Ziricote

Amboyna (top)

Camphor

Now to mill it up and make a hippy sandwich ;-P



When I have the body blank, and neck glued up Ill fire up the CNC

But first I'll glue up some scrap plywood or foam and test whether the CNC files carve right.

Amboyna

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by gregpark

To get a more uniformed coloring try hitting it with a wood conditioner first. Water or oil based depending on your choice of finish

Excellent idea. It'll need a good couple of weeks of drying but all of Oregon is set to have a real rain shortage this summer, so I reckon it'll be bone-dry by the end of the month.

[Crowbob]

[Crowbob]

Almost ready for shingles!

[gregpark]

Brand new roof build and it's already sagging! 😃
Looks great, going with cedar shakes?

[Crowbob]

Yes. Cedar shingles.

They won’t be installed right away, though. Two reasons, 1) I’m hoping the lumber loses the pressure-treated hue and acquires a little of the patina of weathered wood (grey) and, 2) I gotta practice up on my Free Solo techniques.

[gregpark]

I'd go with shakes over shingles. More in character with the build (and more forgiving alignment wise). Have your table saw at the ready and you'll figure out how to weave your hip corners. I probably wouldn't even paper it, the shakes swell tight when wet and it'll look nice from underneath

[Crowbob]

I got a deal on shingles. Yeah, no paper.

[gregpark]

Looks like an awful lot of shingles for that gazebo !

[Crowbob]

Yes. I told the guy it’s about 2X what I need. He wanted to move it so he gave me a screamin’ deal to take it all. I’ll use it somewhere. Probably siding for a shed or privacy fence or whatever.

[Crowbob]

Greg,

How much of a gap (between shingles to account for swelling) is proper? It seems like since the shingles are random widths, that gap would vary, but IDK for sure.

[Zeke]

1/4"

[gregpark]

And for the first course do 2 layers thick of shingles. That will not only shed water but you'll see no daylight from the inside and it'll look thicker and nicer around the perimeter on the outside.
And even as small as this building is, get yourself a stapler to shoot ½" stance, ¾" long galvanized. Nailing is just too slow

[gregpark]

I'm not a Roofer but I've done enough for myself to know to take your time, it all shows. I'd start off with a string to get things started straight. I've stapled on a ledger board and moved it up for each course but with your concave roof? You'll figure out the best method on the first panel