Woodworking and carpentry thread

[masraum]

Originally Posted by flatbutt

Biscuits require another special tool don't they? I always use clamps because of my right hand being mostly crippled. The clamps act as another hand.

Yeah, you can get a biscuit joiner pretty cheap from someplace like HD. I had one, but sold it in 2014 when we downsized. It's far cheaper than the Festool domino tool.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by gregpark

CA glue with accelerator spray is a game changer for woodworking. I also use Gorilla double stick tape often to hold things in place temporarily. At the joint or on the saw. Another tip for mitering, lay pieces flat on upside down blue tape with the outside points of the miter touching. Glue, fold together and clamp. The tape holds the miter tight nicely

I've seen that technique used in videos online and always think "duh, so intuitive and simple. Why didn't I think of that."

[flatbutt]

Originally Posted by gregpark

Biscuits require a biscuit muncher, yes. They add a little strength but they're mostly for flushing out glue ups.
I clamp pretty much everything that gets glued together. You can't have too many various sized clamps in the shop. For picture frames or any 90° mitered corner I CA glue 45° triangular temporary blocks to the corners to allow clamping. The blocks knock right off after the glue sets

The triangles don't get stuck?

[gregpark]

^ you are correct. And make micro adjustments with a center punch and hammer for a rafter square

[gregpark]

A spot of CA glue releases really well with a gentle hammer shock. The triangle blocks pop right off and the glue residue quickly sands off with 220

[flatbutt]

I've been playing with oil painting and would like to make my own frames. So if mortise and tenon is best for frames then I'm thinking of this:

https://www.kregtool.com/s/kreg/shop/wood-joinery/mortise-tenon-joinery/mortisemate-loose-tenon-jig/KLTJ100.html?trk_msg=R15P6QGV0MEK9FQRIKVPEF91L0&trk_contact=N47NFK9NM8BFQFST950F138MEK&trk_module=bna&trk_sid=CN523DN4QPSU16LGJBJV9JQ4LK&trk_link=7O95NT3VAHC4TEHGQNC7DN0PUK&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=See+It+Again&utm_campaign=em-trig-browse-prod-abandon&utm_content=browse-prod-customer-m2

[gregpark]

Looks a little overkill for picture frames. Looks like a domino cutter? Truth be told, modern wood glue is so strong now it's eliminated the need for fasteners in a lot of cases. I use more than glue when a piece to be jointed is straight up end grain but 45s glue strong. The big thing for picture frames is a square and flat glue up. There are clamps just for that.

[herr_oberst]

A handful of my picture frame clamps. Those band clamps, unwieldy to set up, really do a good job holding a frame square. I wish I had 3 more of those Stanley 400's but they're expensive and take up a lot of space during the glue up. Good for getting a nice clean kerf cut with a thin razor saw, though. (note the sacrificial strip of wood in the elbow)

[gregpark]

Those steel clamps look nice, antique?, I might look into those. A couple dots of CA glue with the Tight bond and no need for 4 of them. Clamp a corner for 20 seconds, move the clamp to the next corner. You could be installing the art within minutes of glueing the frame together

[TimT]

CA glue with accelerator spray is a game changer for woodworking.

I was so skeptical of this .. painters tape, superglue, accelerator..

Recently treated myself to a CNC router, and while dusting off my CAD skills and doing small projects with the machine... I found that even though I thought I clamped the work securely, it wasn't enough.. even though the machine is cutting well apparently there is enough force from the bit to move the "well clamped" work..

I tried CA glue and blue tape and all is good..

Regarding while relearning CAD and design software.. and learning the nuances of CNC.. I modeled a guitar body from available 2D drawings.. even though its a copy... I can do hands on measuring since I own one..

Gibson SG.....

[URY914]

I finished the T&G pine ceiling. It took forever but I'm happy with it. Two coats of stain and a coat of poly before I can install so it ends up being a drawn-out process.

[URY914]

Next is raising the floor in the same room as the ceiling shown above. I'm raising it to match the room elevation in the house. After I finish framing I'll add the 3/4" subfloor and hire a guy to install the red oak finish floor to match the rest of the house. This room used to be a screened porch, and it is slab on grade whereas the rest of the house is above grade. The slab for this room is actually sloped which means I needed to rip the 2'x6" to keep the room floor level. And the slab has a 3/16" birdbath in it. All this just adds to the PITA this project had been.

[gregpark]

I've leveled a lot of those. I use my laser to get the sleepers elevation perfect and glue those suckers down. Sunken living rooms were a 1970s stupid idea

[URY914]

Originally Posted by gregpark

I've leveled a lot of those. I use my laser to get the sleepers elevation perfect and glue those suckers down. Sunken living rooms were a 1970s stupid idea

I set the perimeter boards using my laser level. I glued the sleepers where I could but the birdbath in the middle forced me to add shims.

[fanaudical]

Lots of great ideas and tips in this thread. Thanks, all, for sharing!

[Crowbob]

Noice, URY!

I hate changes in elevation at thresholds. I’m thinking your end result will be absolutely worth the time, effort and $$$.

[herr_oberst]

Nice stuff, URY. The fact that you mention the birdbath and you're taking the pains to fix it means you'll be loving the finished results later this year, and for a long time to come. I'd like to raise the floor in my laundry room with this same technique. We'll see if it ever happens.

[gregpark]

URY installed the sleepers over an existing hardwood which is fine if it's glued tight and you don't hear ANY hollow noises when knocking with your knuckles. But if I'm going directly over a slab (or existing floor covering) I float low spots with self leveling concrete. I always use pressure treated 2x sleeper material 16" on center and blocking 4' laterally so every piece of subfloor plywood is supported all the way around. I roll DryLock on the slab in the sleeper bays to inhibit water vapor then glue and screw the plywood subfloor staggering the sheets.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by URY914

I finished the T&G pine ceiling. It took forever but I'm happy with it. Two coats of stain and a coat of poly before I can install so it ends up being a drawn-out process.

It looks fantastic! Very well done.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by URY914

Next is raising the floor in the same room as the ceiling shown above. I'm raising it to match the room elevation in the house. After I finish framing I'll add the 3/4" subfloor and hire a guy to install the red oak finish floor to match the rest of the house. This room used to be a screened porch, and it is slab on grade whereas the rest of the house is above grade. The slab for this room is actually sloped which means I needed to rip the 2'x6" to keep the room floor level. And the slab has a 3/16" birdbath in it. All this just adds to the PITA this project had been.

Yikes, that sounds like a nightmare, but you're clearly taking the time to do/get it right.