Woodworking and carpentry thread

[herr_oberst]

"I need to hear me some flatpickin' and I better hear it done at least this good, 'else I'm apt to get mad!"

[herr_oberst]

(In all seriousness Mark, those are very c
ool prizes! Nicely done!)

[flatbutt]

and that was JUST noodlin'!

[herr_oberst]

This isn't nearly as cool as oh, say, a tigerwood medicine cabinet with rosewood inlays but it didn't cost me nothin' except for a few Chicago screws.
I made a lid for this crate out of some scrap flooring I found. This is for carrying cycling gear to out of town trailheads. Makes a handy seat, too, so I can put on my shoes.

[gregpark]

Every bit as cool! Necessity is the mother of many hobbies. Now onto the next project which will lead to more tools, more knowledge and sacrificing the garage 😃

[flatbutt]

Originally Posted by flatbutt

I have GOT to get me one of these!

it arrived today. Guess what I'll be doing on the next rainy day?

[rwest]

Hey flat,

Pocket hole joinery is great and fast, but it isn’t something to use everywhere. It is a fairly week joint with a limited lifespan, so in other words don’t use it on any heirloom type projects.

I used it for many joints on my kitchen cabinets, but wouldn’t use it on living room furniture.

It is very fast and easy though!

[gregpark]

I pocket screw with wood glue. Plenty strong!

[rwest]

Some of you might know that I’m the “factory” approved repair and parts guy for the vintage Bridge City Tool Works tool- the Rosewood and brass tools mostly.

The older squares were assembled with CA glue aka. Super glue and then pinned in place with brass and steel “rivets”. CA glue goes brittle after 15 or so years and then a good bump can put the squares out of square.

Occasionally and more than I would like, people contact me to recalibrate their squares. It is a nerve racking procedure as you are basically breaking the tool apart to redo it.

I’ve done quite a few now and have got it down more or less to a science. I had two sent to me from the UK and I got them apart safely.

I use a press to punch out the brass and steel rivets while praying that they don’t crack the wood or lift the brass plate. The heads of the rivets get peinned in place, so they are fatter at the ends, so pushing them out can be a disaster if not supported.

I re- glued the blades to square using a 90 degree fixture that is .0005 accurate. After the glue is cured, I need to redrill, replace rivets, pein, sand flush and then wax the wood.

[flatbutt]

Originally Posted by rwest

Hey flat,

Pocket hole joinery is great and fast, but it isn’t something to use everywhere. It is a fairly week joint with a limited lifespan, so in other words don’t use it on any heirloom type projects.

I used it for many joints on my kitchen cabinets, but wouldn’t use it on living room furniture.

It is very fast and easy though!

Thanks Rutager, I'll be doing mostly picture frames (medium to large) ,rough cabinetry for the shop area and gifts such as serving trays, blanket ladders etc.

[gregpark]

Pocket screwing isn't good for picture frames, biscuits or splices work better (or mortise and tendon if you really want to punish yourself).
And when I do Pocket screw I usually clamp the pieces before driving screws (screws can make the work wander). I dowel too but alignment can be a challenge. I look at Pocket screwing as a time saver. I use CA glue a lot but for a permanent bond I'll use tightbond with it. The CA glue allows instant bond and not having to wait for the Tight bond to set, especially if you spray one side with accelerator

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by rwest

Some of you might know that I’m the “factory” approved repair and parts guy for the vintage Bridge City Tool Works tool- the Rosewood and brass tools mostly.

......snip

That is so cool. Who knew that CA could be used like that; and to get a half-thou accurate on a tool that's already been set once and then 'broken' before resetting is damn impressive to a layman like me.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

That is so cool. Who knew that CA could be used like that; and to get a half-thou accurate on a tool that's already been set once and then 'broken' before resetting is damn impressive to a layman like me.

Thanks herr,

The fixture is .0005 because I spent the extra money when I bought it, but the factory tolerance was .002 over the length of the tool. It’s pretty hard to get perfect as you need both the handle and blade each to be parallel along their length and then joined at 90 to get both inside and outside square, many squares only do the inside as square.

It is hard to measure the outside, I put the fixture on a granite surface plate and then put the square against it, but it only takes a tiny bit of dirt or something to skew the results.

[herr_oberst]

My method to test square on my squares - I have a 1-2-3 block that I put in the corner of my square then I hold everything up to a light.

Your method is better!

[flatbutt]

Originally Posted by gregpark

Pocket screwing isn't good for picture frames, biscuits or splices work better (or mortise and tendon if you really want to punish yourself).
And when I do Pocket screw I usually clamp the pieces before driving screws (screws can make the work wander). I dowel too but alignment can be a challenge. I look at Pocket screwing as a time saver. I use CA glue a lot but for a permanent bond I'll use tightbond with it. The CA glue allows instant bond and not having to wait for the Tight bond to set, especially if you spray one side with accelerator

Biscuits require another special tool don't they? I always use clamps because of my right hand being mostly crippled. The clamps act as another hand.

[gregpark]

Biscuits require a biscuit muncher, yes. They add a little strength but they're mostly for flushing out glue ups.
I clamp pretty much everything that gets glued together. You can't have too many various sized clamps in the shop. For picture frames or any 90° mitered corner I CA glue 45° triangular temporary blocks to the corners to allow clamping. The blocks knock right off after the glue sets

[flatbutt]

Originally Posted by gregpark

Biscuits require a biscuit muncher, yes. They add a little strength but they're mostly for flushing out glue ups.
I clamp pretty much everything that gets glued together. You can't have too many various sized clamps in the shop. For picture frames or any 90° mitered corner I CA glue 45° triangular temporary blocks to the corners to allow clamping. The blocks knock right off after the glue sets

Brilliant!

Rabbit hole alert....

www.kregtool.com/shop/wood-joinery/mortise-tenon-joinery/mortisemate-loose-tenon-jig/KLTJ100.html?trk_msg=SVVN35GV68O4P7OIPA4LGB521G&trk_contact=N47NFK9NM8BFQFST950F138MEK&trk_sid=CET9QMBFI8TBT1OLTJ4KLAN9A4&trk_link=LEUS71VTCNFKF60MHVGA84OF9K&src=EProduct032326&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=mortise+joint+diagram&utm_campaign=Product+Emails&utm_content=product-03-23-26

[gregpark]

CA glue with accelerator spray is a game changer for woodworking. I also use Gorilla double stick tape often to hold things in place temporarily. At the joint or on the saw. Another tip for mitering, lay pieces flat on upside down blue tape with the outside points of the miter touching. Glue, fold together and clamp. The tape holds the miter tight nicely

[masraum]

Originally Posted by rwest

Some of you might know that I’m the “factory” approved repair and parts guy for the vintage Bridge City Tool Works tool- the Rosewood and brass tools mostly.

The older squares were assembled with CA glue aka. Super glue and then pinned in place with brass and steel “rivets”. CA glue goes brittle after 15 or so years and then a good bump can put the squares out of square.

Occasionally and more than I would like, people contact me to recalibrate their squares. It is a nerve racking procedure as you are basically breaking the tool apart to redo it.

I’ve done quite a few now and have got it down more or less to a science. I had two sent to me from the UK and I got them apart safely.

I use a press to punch out the brass and steel rivets while praying that they don’t crack the wood or lift the brass plate. The heads of the rivets get peinned in place, so they are fatter at the ends, so pushing them out can be a disaster if not supported.

I re- glued the blades to square using a 90 degree fixture that is .0005 accurate. After the glue is cured, I need to redrill, replace rivets, pein, sand flush and then wax the wood.

Very cool. I always thought that the tradesman way to "adjust" a square that had gotten off was to file the blade until it was square again. Your way sounds a bit harder. Very cool though.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

My method to test square on my squares - I have a 1-2-3 block that I put in the corner of my square then I hold everything up to a light.

Your method is better!

I always thought the method was to mark a line on a board, then flip the square and mark again. And the two lines should not diverge in a V.