Getting back into cycling

[ZAMIRZ]

There's also option 2.5; build or buy a new steel bike.

I bought this Marin Nicasio during COVID and tweaked a couple things on it. Every time I think about getting something more road-oriented or trying to find another full-suspension to bomb the trails on here I hop on the Marin and the desire for anything else just melts away. Depending on how much your time is worth to you, this might also end up being the cheapest route vs. finding a frame, sourcing the right parts you'd want on a custom build and then building + dialing it all in.

[aigel]

For riding a few miles ad day, just use what you have and cobble something together. For the century ride, absolutely look for something more modern, and buy used. Get the right frame size and then have the bike fitted by a bike fitter.

I did just that when I had a similar plan and ended up doing the "Death Ride" in 2018. I bought a top of the line used Colnago C50 with Campagnolo group off CL for not a whole lot of money. I put modern saddle and handlebar at the time I got the bike fitted. I completed the event and had a ton of people comment on the bike. Modern classic. I have been riding mostly MTB since, but it is a great wall ornament in the garage and I can sell it anytime for more than what I paid and put in it.

If the ride is pretty flat, anything 15 years or younger with rim brakes should be pretty affordable. It looks like everyone is getting disc bikes now.

Here my thread. Longest thread I ever started, I think! - a lot of good info, you may want to read it. Some of the PPOT biking and exercising legends on there. Including Angela. RIP.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/910181-school-me-road-bikes-11.html

Cheers,

George

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by aigel

For riding a few miles ad day, just use what you have and cobble something together. For the century ride, absolutely look for something more modern, and buy used. Get the right frame size and then have the bike fitted by a bike fitter.

finding a modern bike that fits me on the used market is mission impossible

ain't gonna happen

if this vintage build doesn't pan out I'll break open the piggy bank for a new bike

it will have to be at least 62cm

One of my biggest problems now is being unfamiliar with all the new sizes and jargon, I havn't bought a bike in 35 years.

Fortunately I have time and skill. I'm going to sand blast the frame and do the paint myself. I've built wheels a long time ago in my bmx days.

I like the challenge of taking an old steel bike that is ready to be tossed into the scrap bin and turning it into a bike where I can ride comfortably all day.

[herr_oberst]

Keep your eyes and ears open - here's a first gen Roubaix that's a 64 for small money.

Tall bikes come up fairly frequently, and I'd have to think it would be fairly easy to strike up a good deal because there's not a lot of demand for tall bikes.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/d/renton-specialized-roubaix-expert/7588068929.html

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

Keep your eyes and ears open - here's a first gen Roubaix that's a 64 for small money.

Tall bikes come up fairly frequently, and I'd have to think it would be fairly easy to strike up a good deal because there's not a lot of demand for tall bikes.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/d/renton-specialized-roubaix-expert/7588068929.html

LA is about as far as I'm willing to go for a bike. But that does look like a good deal.

[aigel]

I see tall bikes all the time. If you are willing to go to LA, I bet you can find something within a month or less. When they do come up, they seem to be discounted. Just like a left-handed firearm. You can also buy at a used bike outlets online. Things have calmed down quite a bit since the height of the pandemic.

I’m just concerned that you will be playing around with building a bike instead of riding. Get something decent you can right now and then you can start playing with classics.

[otto_kretschmer]

I used these old sew ups for my senior design project and I held onto them. The hubs are Campagnolo. They're still good. The rear has a six gear cassette so that may fit the stays on the Gilmour frame. I'll know next week.

The tire size is going to be important. If I build my own wheels I got a lot of freedom.

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by aigel

I’m just concerned that you will be playing around with building a bike instead of riding. Get something decent you can right now and then you can start playing with classics.

building is half the fun but you have a good point. If the build starts dragging on too long I'll find a freakishly tall stem and start training on the cannondale

[look 171]

130 is the typical rear drop out spacing. Older bikes from the 70s and 80s are a tad smaller. Since its steel, it can be cold set. You must have dropout tools to set them and not many new shops know how to do that or have the tool. Old steel frame can typically take up to 10-11 speed. Not sure about Campy hub. I lost touch with Campy stuff. Must run off to dinner, get back to this later this evening

[otto_kretschmer]

Does anyone know where I can get a fork for a 66 cm frame?

I'm looking but not finding anything. I'm wondering if I'm going to have to resort to modifying a shorter fork for my needs.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

Thats a possibility but I'm looking on ebay right now and it seems I can find whatever I need at a reasonable price.

First I have to get the frame in my hands so I know what the size of the chain stays width, bottom bracket, steering tube length and diameter.


So I got a question for the experts; I'm going to use vintage components for a vintage frame.

I don't know whats the difference between Campagnolo record and super record, and Shimano Duraace and 105, campy chorus?

I have a set of 20" BMX sew ups with campy hubs that I could use if I want to build my own wheels.

If I can fit the bike with campy gear that would be nifty

Super Record, is top of the line for road racing. I think its just Record now. Not up to date with the latest from Campy. Chorus is their entry level or one level above entry level racing component.

Dura-Ace is top of the line Shimano road group. Ultegra or Shinamo 600 known in the old days was their entry. 105 is the modern day entry race/sports group. They discovered they can make a lot of money offering a water down ultegra or Dura Ace looking group set but built with heavier materials or should I say, no Ti or carbon.

I personally wouldn't get anything less then Ultegra. My first Ultegra group set is on my kid's Trek. 12 speed electronic. Its just sightly heavier then Dura-Ace. It all comes down to weight between the two.

the new comer SRAM is also very good. I have a complete set SRAM Force group set of 10 speed in a box. I had to have 11 speed when it came out. Use it for two seasons. I also have Shinamo 10 speed electronic group sitting in a box. Again, the 11 speed Dura-Ace was a must have when that came out. Now, I am running 12 speed with the 11 spd on the bike hanging from the garage. Yea, I have an illness. If you don't fine anything on ebay, let me know, Its always for sale at a great price since I have no need for them and I am not good at selling old stuff due to people not showing up.

I have to agree with Peter from Australia, ride the Cannondale to get you back on the road. Work on the steel bike, ride it and see how you like it. I know, its the journey and not the destination for you. I really to break it to you, its not the bike, its you that are going to do that 100 mile but with a quality bike, it helps, about 5-10%.

That set of campy hubs, Freewheel or cassette? If cassette, I believe 10 spd can be had with a 10 spd derailleur and shifter to make it work. 10 spd plus is great for those type of long 100 mile rides due to the ability to have wide range of gears. A large 28 tooth cog is golden on a 3000' ball buster climb to the finish and that's after 85 miles.

There are lots of riders and bikes out here in socal. People dump last year's models for the must have newest (I know how they feel). If you see something, I can have a look for you. I know bikes very well.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

finding a modern bike that fits me on the used market is mission impossible

ain't gonna happen

if this vintage build doesn't pan out I'll break open the piggy bank for a new bike

it will have to be at least 62cm

One of my biggest problems now is being unfamiliar with all the new sizes and jargon, I havn't bought a bike in 35 years.

Fortunately I have time and skill. I'm going to sand blast the frame and do the paint myself. I've built wheels a long time ago in my bmx days.

I like the challenge of taking an old steel bike that is ready to be tossed into the scrap bin and turning it into a bike where I can ride comfortably all day.

In today's bike terminology, you need an extra large frame. Show us a pic of the steel frame you bought when it comes in.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

I used these old sew ups for my senior design project and I held onto them. The hubs are Campagnolo. They're still good. The rear has a six gear cassette so that may fit the stays on the Gilmour frame. I'll know next week.

The tire size is going to be important. If I build my own wheels I got a lot of freedom.

I hate to break this to you, but the mid grade wheels sold today are SO MUCH stronger and faster then what you have there. I build my own wheels too 30 years ago. They had to be trued every season now, I ride them and ride them without having to worry about them getting out of wack. I am rough on wheels and am one of those guys that will take the group behind hard over railroad tracks or rough roads. Do you need them for the 100 ride? No, of course not, but they sure are nice to have. Less spoke count, more aero, and light weight with supple ride quality. What's not to like.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by CurtEgerer

Same reason we like old steel cars. But if you're racing, absolutely go plastic.

no more racing, but intense training ride where the young pups warp their hand around my neck and shake me like a rag doll. I have taken an old steel bike on that ride. It isn't much slower and I finish the ride the same as the plastic bike, feeling like hell each and everytime.

[otto_kretschmer]

I was just thinking about this build I'm doing. Old bikes are one of the few things I enjoy and is still affordable to restore. Lots of old bikes and parts out there. Some cars are just unreal. I look at International Scouts from time to time and can't believe how much people want for them today.

I figured out how to look for forks on ebay. I think I found something that will fit the frame I got coming.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144955689149?hash=item21c00848bd:g:xRUAAOSwt89jnjl Y

says its for a 9" steering tube.

A vintage steel race bike with is sort of like an old Cadillac and the new graphite bikes are like a new BMW M3. Very different rides but both will get you there.

After the frame arrives I'm going to visit a friend in San Diego who says I can have whatever spare parts he has free. I have another friend in Thousand Oaks who has been riding forever and may have some extra goodies. I'l have to ask him if I get over that far.

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by look 171

I hate to break this to you, but the mid grade wheels sold today are SO MUCH stronger and faster then what you have there. I build my own wheels too 30 years ago. They had to be trued every season now, I ride them and ride them without having to worry about them getting out of wack. I am rough on wheels and am one of those guys that will take the group behind hard over railroad tracks or rough roads. Do you need them for the 100 ride? No, of course not, but they sure are nice to have. Less spoke count, more aero, and light weight with supple ride quality. What's not to like.

those sew ups are from one of these bikes



They were used back in 95 when I was in my senior design class at the U. We were building a human powered vehicle. I eventually chopped up the vehicle and threw it in the trash but I held onto the wheels. I don't see any reason why I can't use the hubs now.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

I was just thinking about this build I'm doing. Old bikes are one of the few things I enjoy and is still affordable to restore. Lots of old bikes and parts out there. Some cars are just unreal. I look at International Scouts from time to time and can't believe how much people want for them today.

I figured out how to look for forks on ebay. I think I found something that will fit the frame I got coming.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144955689149?hash=item21c00848bd:g:xRUAAOSwt89jnjl Y

says its for a 9" steering tube.

A vintage steel race bike with is sort of like an old Cadillac and the new graphite bikes are like a new BMW M3. Very different rides but both will get you there.

After the frame arrives I'm going to visit a friend in San Diego who says I can have whatever spare parts he has free. I have another friend in Thousand Oaks who has been riding forever and may have some extra goodies. I'l have to ask him if I get over that far.

Sounds like fun. I enjoy building or working on old bikes too especially bikes from the 80s to mid 2000s just like Pete here.

Like everything old, its a lot of money. A clean Campy Super Record anything or Dura-Ace of a certain vintage is worth bucks. I had a pair of Binda Extra straps from the 80s in its original bag I found under my parent's house in my box of crap. I heard some guy talking about old straps at the end of the ride and I mention to them I have a set I found. He offered me 100 bucks on the spot. Couple weeks later, I found out they were in the 125-140 dollar range. Not a big deal. I am glad someone will use it. I paid 17 bucks for them. A certain Campy and Dura-Ace parts are like air cool parts. Not cheap but luckily, Campy parts are not needed to get a bike running at top condition and perhaps race with it without issues.

[look 171]

One thing I learn over the years about the old steel bikes. They aren't always straight from being beat around or crashes. That's important on long descents. Check it or its time to make friends with an old shop in AZ that may have a frame table.

[Dpmulvan]

The bike market is about to collapse COVID saw a huge demand increase companies overproduced and now can’t get rid of last years inventory. Many companies have laid off employees. You should be able to get a great deal the longer you wait.

[otto_kretschmer]

I was in one of these competitions.

people problems, time problems, money problems

still had fun

the sewups I bought were a good choice but if I had to do it over again I would go in a different direction.