Getting back into cycling

[otto_kretschmer]

My Cannondale is from the first gen aluminum bikes that came out in the early 80s. It was before the bikes with the shorter rear triangles and that extended finger of a dropout. Its still a good bike for a local riding but not racing or doing the "shoot out"

I have a mountain bike stem on it right now. It looks ugly but is rideable.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

My Cannondale is from the first gen aluminum bikes that came out in the early 80s. It was before the bikes with the shorter rear triangles and that extended finger of a dropout. Its still a good bike for a local riding but not racing or doing the "shoot out"

I have a mountain bike stem on it right now. It looks ugly but is rideable.

The Shoot out looks like a fun ride. I think that Cannondale will do fine at the Shoot Out. Why do you think it isn't good enough for it? You can race with it, just make sure it shifts well and have the pistons to keep it going. I am not going to lie, older bikes are a tiny bit lazier coming out of the corners compare to modern full on race bikes but that's isn't a huge factor. If wheel sucking takes place before the corner, any disadvantage become goes out the window. As a matter of fact, sucking wheel going in and out of just one corners will hugely benefit the rider behind 10 folds compare to having a modern bike vs old. 10 pedal strokes can be saved and that is huge in a mile course with four corners over a 60 mile race. If it fits you well enough, go ride it. Who care what it looks like.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by look 171

A single ring up front. You are just too cool. For a road bike or gravel? Don't tell me track.

Gravel, inspired by this.

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by look 171

The Shoot out looks like a fun ride. I think that Cannondale will do fine at the Shoot Out. Why do you think it isn't good enough for it? You can race with it, just make sure it shifts well and have the pistons to keep it going. I am not going to lie, older bikes are a tiny bit lazier coming out of the corners compare to modern full on race bikes but that's isn't a huge factor. If wheel sucking takes place before the corner, any disadvantage become goes out the window. As a matter of fact, sucking wheel going in and out of just one corners will hugely benefit the rider behind 10 folds compare to having a modern bike vs old. 10 pedal strokes can be saved and that is huge in a mile course with four corners over a 60 mile race. If it fits you well enough, go ride it. Who care what it looks like.

A friend in college used to do that ride. He rode professionally on the Saturn and Plymouth team



he's in this pic. His team gave him a new bike every season. He could ride my Cannondale on the shootout when we were in college. I'm more of a loner, weekend warrior, joy rider.

The Tucson loop will be my milk run. Its closed at dark so I'll have to get another rout and lights for the summer. Its way too hot to ride in the day in the summer here.

[otto_kretschmer]

I'm going to borrow the wheels from my sister's old race bike until I can get my own. I need 27x1.25 or maybe 27x1. 700c may work if I get brakes with longer arms

[look 171]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

A friend in college used to do that ride. He rode professionally on the Saturn and Plymouth team



he's in this pic. His team gave him a new bike every season. He could ride my Cannondale on the shootout when we were in college. I'm more of a loner, weekend warrior, joy rider.

The Tucson loop will be my milk run. Its closed at dark so I'll have to get another rout and lights for the summer. Its way too hot to ride in the day in the summer here.

I remember them, mainly rode domestic races and was a powerhouse stateside. I think in the later years, they rode LeMond bikes.

Antonio Cruz rode for them before he hit the big time. He was from LA and has shown up at some of the local rides where he would rip the legs off the groups.

[MFAFF]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

I'm going to borrow the wheels from my sister's old race bike until I can get my own. I need 27x1.25 or maybe 27x1. 700c may work if I get brakes with longer arms

A bit confused here.... are these for the Cannondale or the new frame?

If for the new one then I'd suggest a 700c wheel wheel that is as wide as can fit... so you can use a 28mm tire. The benefits of the wider tire and going tubeless (if you want to) are significant and will make your cycling life more comfortable and enjoyable (and so faster).

Having a steel frame with slightly wider tires will make your rides more fun... and if you are honest with yourself perhaps there is a greater bias towards fun and enjoyment than racing as fast as you can against younger people....

Lovely looking frame tho.. I'd agree it's more touring biased with the rack eyelets on the back. Still the geometry may well be more aggressive than a modern touring frame.

[otto_kretschmer]

I put the 700c wheels from my Cannondale on the Gilmore frame. I would have to find a set of brakes that has another quarter inch reach.

[MFAFF]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

I put the 700c wheels from my Cannondale on the Gilmore frame. I would have to find a set of brakes that has another quarter inch reach.

I see....long reach (drop) caliber brakes are what you need...Also check the wheel is fully seated in the drop out, I have remounted the wheel a little "out" and had brake rubbing issues until I looked again at how I had seated the wheel.

https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a20008036/an-ode-to-long-reach-brakes/

Pretty easy and inexpensive. They will also work a bit better than older brakes....

Possibly something like this:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/105-5800/BR-R650.html

700c wheels and tires are also referred to as 27.5 inchers... so they should be bigger than the 27 inchers you mention.

Short drop Shimano Golden Arrow (1984) on Raleigh Road Ace frame (1986) with Mavic M40 rims (700C) and 23mm tires.


Long drop/ reach Shimano Ultegra (2014) on 2014 carbon frame. Also runs 700C rims but 28mm tire.

[otto_kretschmer]

Here is the 27" wheel from my sister's bike. You can see its a little bigger diameter.



I need wheels. Maybe in the long run it would be better to get the more common 700c but I want a softer ride anyway so it seems the 27 x 1.25 tire will do that.

[MFAFF]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

Here is the 27" wheel from my sister's bike. You can see its a little bigger diameter.



I need wheels. Maybe in the long run it would be better to get the more common 700c but I want a softer ride anyway so it seems the 27 x 1.25 tire will do that.

Yup… can see that the rim is in the right place with that wheel. Interesting, thanks.

The 700c wheel and tire choice may well be larger than in 27s.

A 32mm (1.25 inches) will provide a couch like ride… at say 50/55psi if you’re tubeless. Be very nice. An internal rim width of 19mm would be desirable for that sort of tire width. Check with the tire manufacturer as to what they recommend. I use a 19mm internal width for 30mm road slicks and 35mm gravel tires.

[stevej37]

Aired up the tires today. It's almost time..
We had snow again this morning.

[look 171]

It ain't gonna to fit. Wider tire may not fit in the cannondale. it will rub on the brake bridge and the seat stay bridge. Rubbing under the crown may occur too. If you can get 28mm then you are golden. Just don't pay too much attention on the sidewall's PSI printing. Give it 85 lbs then you should be good. Especially the gilmore frame having eyelids may have more clearance for touring tires. If you can swing for tubless wheels, do it. Nothing else on the bike matters all that much (but the saddle) but the greatest benefit is no flats and the ride quality. I am 165-170 lbs but I only run 60-65 lbs on 28mm tires. Its like sitting on my sofa.

No need for long reach calipers. Just get a drop brake bolt. Cheap.

[look 171]

I jsut looked. They are 40 bucks for a drop bolt. found this on Ali express https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832443308613.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.KDv84Y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

Not sure if you can wait that long? My suggestion is to just buy new wheels and be done with it. Those bolts use to be 5 bucks when I worked in the bike shop.

[flatbutt]

Someday I'll get a chance to ride a high end kit until then it's my trusty Raleigh Cadent 3.

[otto_kretschmer]

I ordered the wrong mountain bike quill stem. Its for 1 1/8" forks and I have 1"

Only a $30 boo-boo. I ordered another one today for $11. This is for the Cannondale. This bike will be a wall hanger after I get the Gilmour bike on the road but it may come in handy if my nephew wants to go for a spin someday.

[otto_kretschmer]

The Gilmour needs both wheels and brakes so I could get 700c and get brakes and the drop bolt or I can get 27" wheels and use the normal brakes.

[MFAFF]

Originally Posted by look 171

I jsut looked. They are 40 bucks for a drop bolt. found this on Ali express https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832443308613.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.KDv84Y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

Not sure if you can wait that long? My suggestion is to just buy new wheels and be done with it. Those bolts use to be 5 bucks when I worked in the bike shop.

That's steep for such a simple bit of kit! Ouch.

Agree with new wheels... more choice in both rims and tires...and a pair of silver Shimano 105 modern brakes with a slightly longer drop will provide much better braking than older ones, even with modern pads and still look the part.

If you go that route then selecting the wheels is another rabbit hole to vanish down.....

[look 171]

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/fulcrum-racing-6-c17-road-wheelset/rp-prod175099?gs=1&sku=sku664661&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic-shopping

CAn't beat this for the money. Drop bolts, brake pads and all cost money and time unless you want to tinker which sounds like you do, or get the below. Tubeless for the comfort and all other benefits. https://cambriabike.com/collections/wheels/products/shimano-rs500-700c-road-wheelset.

or

https://www.performancebike.com/ritchey-zeta-comp-wheelset-black-shimano-sram-qr-x-100-qr-x-130mm-700c-622-iso-51335337002/p1354275?v=1001537

If I were doing what you are trying to accomplish, the tubeless wheels would be my choice.

[MFAFF]

Originally Posted by look 171

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/fulcrum-racing-6-c17-road-wheelset/rp-prod175099?gs=1&sku=sku664661&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic-shopping

CAn't beat this for the money. Drop bolts, brake pads and all cost money and time unless you want to tinker which sounds like you do, or get the below. Tubeless for the comfort and all other benefits. https://cambriabike.com/collections/wheels/products/shimano-rs500-700c-road-wheelset.

or

https://www.performancebike.com/ritchey-zeta-comp-wheelset-black-shimano-sram-qr-x-100-qr-x-130mm-700c-622-iso-51335337002/p1354275?v=1001537

If I were doing what you are trying to accomplish, the tubeless wheels would be my choice.

Having tubeless ready wheels is a logical choice… gives you all the options.

The shimano hubs have traditional cup and cone bearings which are possibly not as durable as sealed cartridge units in the other wheelsets. I had a previous version of these wheels, fast and smooth however the brake track was very soft and wore out very quickly, less than 10k kms which put me off replacing them like for like.

I found that wheels around the £300-400 range are significantly better than the less expensive ones in terms of hub bearing quality and build quality when delivered. You budget may not cover this range tho.

A company that I have had good experience with is Hunt wheels. i have three sets of their wheels in use, one alloy, two carbon one of which is a 48mm aero set, the other a 650b set. All told ridden some 30k kms on them in the last two years with no wheel problems.. stayed true and tight etc.

https://www.huntbikewheels.com/products/hunt-race-aero-superdura-road-wheelset-1595g-31deep-24wide

If I needed to replace my rim brakes wheels these are the ones I’d go for…

Not sure what rep Hunt have in the US tho.. here in the UK they are one of the better wheel cos… mainly because they have a good base here and reply very quickly and well to any issue that arise… and I have needed to talk to them re new adaptors for different bikes and maintenance tips, they have been very good.