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Originally Posted by pmax View Post








Most of those look like reasonable costs to me, especially if they are dealer prices which are always more expensive than Indy mechanics. Timing belt isn't quick or simple on any motor that I've ever worked on. Struts with alignment, not ever cheap. The guy *****ing about the bushings thinking that they should only be $20 for parts, LOL.

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Old 05-27-2025, 05:53 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
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The OP makes me thankful I don't have to worry about state inspections. But then, I drive through Mansfield with a car in front of me dog tracking so much that I can see the driver's side doors and think, hmmm maybe we should have state inspections.
Yeah - they can be annoying but I tend to keep on top of things so it's rarely a problem. None of the items caused the car to fail inspections, just recommended work to get completed at some point.

I spend a lot of time in Michigan and Ohio where inspections aren't required. It's terrifying seeing some of the death traps rattling down the road that would be weeded out by a required inspection - so I'm a-ok with them here. Ensures brakes are functional all around and keeps down the number of cars with rotted out exhausts or missing mufflers making things much more pleasant.
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Old 05-28-2025, 05:04 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
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If you ever want to become sick to your stomach, have a look at Just Rolled In on youtube. Rusted frames, broken suspension links, brake disks worn through, tires down to the belts and more. "Customer declined repairs." is an often heard voice over.
Very glad we have safety inspections here.
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Old 05-28-2025, 05:12 AM
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Several of the items in the list have a huge degree of variability based on where you are, who you are, where you go, how many of you there are, etc....



Fuel costs, well that's going to be hugely dependent on how much you drive (how many miles/yr, and how much you pay for that fuel (dependent upon where you live). I suspect that cost could be half that or less for some folks.

Financing, that is also dependent (although to a lesser degree) on who you are and how much you finance at what terms.

Taxes and fees are also dependent upon where you are and how much your sales tax and yearly registration renewal is, although the costs included don't look crazy. I think the yearly costs after the first year are about double what you'd pay here.

Insurance, that is going to depend upon who you are, where you are, how much coverage you have. Those amounts don't look crazy for full coverage in a big city.
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Old 05-28-2025, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by masraum View Post
The guy *****ing about the bushings thinking that they should only be $20 for parts, LOL.
For a single control arm bushing, maybe as low as $20 but probably mail order. He has grossly minimized the labor to pull a control arm and remove and press in a new bushing. Eff that, buy the entire assembly.

Sorry, numbers are small. Five to ten dollars each if it's you buying and you are doing the job in your garage. Any mechanic is going to charge full retail which will be $30 minimum each but is still inconsequential to labor.

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Last edited by Bob Kontak; 05-28-2025 at 06:01 AM..
Old 05-28-2025, 05:56 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #45 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bob Kontak View Post
For a single control arm bushing, maybe as low as $20 but probably mail order. He has grossly minimized the labor to pull a control arm and remove and press in a new bushing. Eff that, buy the entire assembly.
Genuine Honda Lower control arm is going to run $600 - I went with Moog instead for quite a bit less, we'll see how that decision goes. Stupid easy to change though, two bolts on the subframe and separate the ball joint. Total time for me as a rank amateur was less than 30 minutes including getting the wheel off.
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Old 05-28-2025, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYPorsche View Post
Genuine Honda Lower control arm is going to run $600 - I went with Moog instead for quite a bit less, we'll see how that decision goes. Stupid easy to change though, two bolts on the subframe and separate the ball joint. Total time for me as a rank amateur was less than 30 minutes including getting the wheel off.
Until the big bolt that goes through the bushing refuses to turn or come out . Rust belt woes . I've sawzalled a few of them out over the years . It eats up a few blades, and seems to take forever
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Old 05-28-2025, 08:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fastfredracing View Post
Until the big bolt that goes through the bushing refuses to turn or come out . Rust belt woes .
I hear you there - dealt with my fair share of rust just a bit north of you. Like any repair, great when it goes well but a nightmare when things are fused.
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Old 05-28-2025, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Kontak View Post
For a single control arm bushing, maybe as low as $20 but probably mail order. He has grossly minimized the labor to pull a control arm and remove and press in a new bushing. Eff that, buy the entire assembly.

Sorry, numbers are small. Five to ten dollars each if it's you buying and you are doing the job in your garage. Any mechanic is going to charge full retail which will be $30 minimum each but is still inconsequential to labor.

Yep, that was my point. R&R of suspension components is not, IME, a 10 min job. And parts cost at a shop is generally 50-100% more than what a person can buy the parts for at a shop. (which I've never understood, since the shop should be paying less than the avg Joe at a FLAPs since the shop should be paying wholesale).
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Old 05-28-2025, 09:03 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfredracing View Post
Until the big bolt that goes through the bushing refuses to turn or come out . Rust belt woes . I've sawzalled a few of them out over the years . It eats up a few blades, and seems to take forever
That was my thinking, the parts never seem to come apart quickly. There's always banging, pounding, prying involved, and that's all before the cutting starts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYPorsche View Post
Genuine Honda Lower control arm is going to run $600 - I went with Moog instead for quite a bit less, we'll see how that decision goes. Stupid easy to change though, two bolts on the subframe and separate the ball joint. Total time for me as a rank amateur was less than 30 minutes including getting the wheel off.
Wow! You must have had the 1 in a 1000 where the part practically fell out in your hands. Nice!
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'08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960
- never named a car before, but this is Charlotte.
'88 targa SOLD 2004 - gone but not forgotten
Old 05-28-2025, 09:05 AM
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Old 05-28-2025, 09:28 AM
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...(one of the finest vehicles ever bolted together)...





Old 05-28-2025, 12:36 PM
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