Workshop white

[Randolph]

I'm painting my shop interior and doing the floors. From my perspective, you can't have enough light in a shop. I was going to use satin but semi-gloss is more reflective. And should be easier to clean either with air or a hose.

Has anyone done a pure, bright white in semi-gloss in their garage or shop? Anything else to consider?

Floor I will probably go with a 2 part epoxy industrial floor paint in white.

[stevej37]

I used white semi-gloss for the walls and used reflective coated styrofoam panels for the ceiling.
The floor is a light gray epoxy. With LED ceiling lights, it's very bright in there. The LED ceiling lights made the most difference.

[Dantilla]

I used high gloss white epoxy on the floor of my former hangar.
What a difference when a screw or washer gets dropped.
Instead of searching around for it on bare concrete, it stands out like a flashing beacon.

Current hangar is bare concrete, but I'll be building a new, bigger hangar soon, and look forward to having a brilliant white floor again

[Flat Six]

Consider using exterior paint. IME it holds up really well to abuse, better than (I suspect) interior paint would. Not sure it's available in the sheen you want, though.

[Zeke]

Exterior finishes are available in satin and semi. What is exterior? Just good paint. You can often find interior/exterior which is nothing but marketing in my mind. One size fits all. There may be additives that help with exterior exposure, but what they are really doing is saving shelf space. What you need to look at the amount of acrylic and the percentage per unit. So, for instance, porch and patio paint has a high acrylic proportion. That kind of paint is typically on an outside horizontal surface and subject to foot traffic. Good paint. Not cheap because acrylic resin is one of the more expensive ingredients.

Cheap paints rely more on vinyl and latex rather than 100% acrylic. And there's more: 100% acrylic, but at what ratio to other ingredients? It gets complex. You have to dive way deeper than a label. Or just consult with a knowledgeable paint supply.

[Baz]

My bathroom....turned out great!

[Randolph]

Thank you Gentlemen, very helpful and inspiring. Dantilla, what brand epoxy did you use?

[rfuerst911sc]

Regardless of interior vs exterior paint if humidity is a concern I recommend adding a anti mold additive . Have the paint store add it before they put the paint on their shaker . My vote would be use semi gloss on the walls .

[Dantilla]

Originally Posted by Randolph

Thank you Gentlemen, very helpful and inspiring. Dantilla, what brand epoxy did you use?

I don't remember. I ordered it through the local paint supplier where I have an account.
This was a few years ago, before they were bought by Sherwin Williams.

Acid etch, two coats primer, two coats finish.
The "good stuff" is very stinky. Respirator is mandatory. Synthetic chemicals that cause brain damage.

If the sales dude tries to sell something because it's less toxic, it won't last.
I'd be very disappointed to put that much effort in just to have the paint start flaking off.

[Dantilla]

The "good stuff" isn't something you can grab off the shelf at Ace Hardware, or even Sherwin Williams.
They had to order it for me.

Edit:
Also- The concrete slab must have a vapor barrier underneath.
If not, moisture can/will rise through and blister the paint

[Randolph]

Thanks! It's a commercial building but I have no idea what's under the concrete. I will say of the two slabs I'm doing, the first is lowest quality concrete ever poured. Will post pics. The slab I work on is high quality. The first, I have a ton of major crack and "worn away" repairs to do before the epoxy paint. I talked with Quikrete CS and they recommended their vinyl patcher that has a 2 hour working time.

Researching, I am considering renting a shot blaster if it's not too expensive. Found a few used on FBMP but they are all over $4000. Also considered gettinga. few bags of sand from HD using my blast cabinet gun. In the end I'm sure I'll only do HCl as you say.

I think this is what you used: Armorseal 1000 HS

It gets high marks written about on garage and other forums. I will also paint my jack wheels with it or Cerakote those to keep the floor in best possible shape.


For interior walls, this Behr looks good: 5 gal. #PR-W15 Ultra-Pure White Semi-Gloss Exterior Paint

Looking forward to getting back (visiting mom) and getting going on this later this week/end.

[Scott Douglas]

I'm envious, Shaun.

When we moved into our house I wanted to paint the inside of my garage while it was empty of everything.
My wife convinced me we had more important things to worry about than a white garage. It would have been so easy with my brother's airless paint sprayer too. As it was we painted every room in the house with it before moving in.

[Dantilla]

Moisture test:
Tape a one-foot-square or so piece of plastic visqueen on the floor. Seal all edges tight.
After a day or two, pull up the plastic. If the concrete that was under the plastic is darker than the surrounding area, that's moisture that has been wicking up through the concrete, unable to evaporate.

[Randolph]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

I'm envious, Shaun.

When we moved into our house I wanted to paint the inside of my garage while it was empty of everything.
My wife convinced me we had more important things to worry about than a white garage. It would have been so easy with my brother's airless paint sprayer too. As it was we painted every room in the house with it before moving in.

I wish you lived close enough to help!

Originally Posted by Dantilla

Moisture test:
Tape a one-foot-square or so piece of plastic visqueen on the floor. Seal all edges tight.
After a day or two, pull up the plastic. If the concrete that was under the plastic is darker than the surrounding area, that's moisture that has been wicking up through the concrete, unable to evaporate.

Thanks, I'll get some at HD when I get the spackle, paint etc.