I warned everyone that I was feeling verbose.

please, wax verbose on 944 suspension setup any time you wish.

as long as there are no more of them fast paced store trips, with out issuing a barf bag.

Nynor - 180-410 progressive front springs, 31mm torsion bars, Weltmeister adj sway bars, Koni Yellow rebound adjustable shocks (stock on the S). Lowered enough that the plastic on the back of the rockers were scuffed from hitting bumps in turns, and had to roll it up on 2x4s to get a low profile jack under it.

The welt sway bars have a slider to adjust, not holes. Most of the other adjustable sway bars have 3 to 5 holes. Last summer I tried to help a local 951 guy setup his car. He had done the cup car suspension, besides being too stiff the sway bars had 5 holes. Where one hole was not enough, the next one was too much. We couldn't get the car neutral. The effect of the too stiff suspension was the sweet spot where the car is easy to control rotation in the apex was very very small.

its rocket science.

thanks. any other scraps you want to throw my way?

night guys. its off to bed for me.

If you don't already have some.... Invest in sticky tires....

sticky tires?

R Comps...

RA1, R1R or something of the likes...

Or richard has good luck with the Dunlop Direzza....

I use Dunlop DZ03s.

Love em.:)

Morning, guys!

You have been productive last night. I predict we will pass 'random pics' well before Christmas.

I try to shop for street tires that have the best cornering grip. It moves from brand and tire to tire as manufacturers compete. Interestingly it saves a little money. When they first introduce a new tire it is cheaper, once it catches on the prices go up. My tires usually change every time I get new ones.

I used to have an extra set of rims and R or A compound tires, but got tired of changing wheels for racing.

When I was driving my 2001 Boxster S, I swapped FTDs with a guy in a Z06. I was on street tires, he was on Hoosiers. He only ran once without his Hoosiers. He was 5 seconds slower.

In my case, there are no tires with worse grip than I drive.

Ditto.

Thanks to Dave for helping out with a changing of brake and transmission fluids today. I got so motivated (and had the open bottle of DOT 4), I swapped out the brake fluid on the motorcycle, too, afterwards.

You're welcome, Alarick. Thanks for lunch.

What method for changing break fluid did you use? The manual, two doctors approach with the assistant pumping the pedal on demand? :)

I think I'll let Alarick explain. :D

One of the ways just about anyone can decrease their lap times is to work on corner entry.

The first thing most people do is not stay to the outside of the turn long enough on entry. They start gradually turning in towards the apex to soon then turn more in earnest as they approach the apex. They think they are making the turn a larger radius but and just doing an early apex turn. What they are doing looks more like a parabola instead of a circle. The idea is to make the radius of the circle as large as possible.

The next thing is kind of multi-part. It's braking, downshifting, turn-in, and getting back on the throttle. The best thing is to just describe what is supposed to happen.

Go from full throttle to full braking immediately. You want to use the momentum of the weight transfer from lifting on the throttle to get into more braking sooner.

If you need to, downshift while braking and you are still going straight.

Turn in as you slowly lift off the brakes. This is often called trail braking. The idea is start turning while weight is still on the front of the car and keeping that weight on the front of the car. That means the rear will be loose and start to slide and rotate the car more than your steering input. This is where practice comes in. You have to pick your braking point so that you are going just the right speed in the right place on turn in as you lift off the brakes and turn in.

When the car is pointing at the apex you add just enough throttle to transfer enough weight to the rear to check the rear slide, balance the car, and put it in a slight 4 wheel drift all set to throttle steer through the apex. This is typically the amount of throttle used to maintain speed in a corner. Too much throttle will stop the rear wheels from drifting altogether. Way too much throttle too soon with spin the rear tires and the car.

If you did not brake enough, are going too fast, or turned in too late the car will slide out of the corner making a bigger turn than the corner.

If you brake too much, are going too slow, or turn in too early you don't get a 4 wheel drift, lose time, and have to add more throttle as you enter and through the apex to get your corner speed up.

Entry Car Setup

Rear shock rebound and rear brake bias effects both how long the rear brakes are effective and how much the rear rotates on turn in. Rebound too firm, the front brakes lock up too easily and the car does not want to rotate. Rebound too soft, the rear brakes lock up and the car rotates way too easily. If the rear bias is to low more braking is done with the front brakes and the braking zone is longer. If the rear bias is too high the rears lock up as the weight transfers (with ABS it comes on sooner making a longer braking zone). You have to find the balance between how quickly the weight comes off the rear, rear rebound, and how much braking the rear wheels can do, brake bias.

On the stock 951 and 928 the rear brake bias valve is a 5/15. On the 951 a 5/33 worked great. On my 928 90GT 5/33 wasn't enough and I went to a 5/55. On my 928 GTS I went straight to a 5/55 and it is too much, I need to get a 5/45.