I spent a couple hours there and tried every combination of the unlabeled switches I could. I charged the low voltage battery and the high voltage battery has been on a trickle charger the whole summer. So, it appears to be something in the wiring. And there is no way I was going to mess with the wiring and possibly screw up something expensive. Worst case is a battery meltdown.

Wussy.

Batteries are cheap. Costco or online.

You haven't lived, until you've been hit with high voltage!

It's not a real project until something's been fubar'ed. Or blown up.

The power goes from the battery into a big box full of wires and circuit boards with like 8 multi-pin connectors and several switches coming out of it. There is a telemetry system in there too, then the juice goes to the motor controllers and then to the motors. I was not getting power at the motor controllers. Not a simple fix without a wiring diagram.

Max, where's the Mythbuster spirit? Does the other ME on your team look like the chick from Mythbusters by any chance? Or do no engineers really look like that?

Not the lithium ones we are using. Plus a Lithium fire is not something I was prepared to handle.

Her, no. I haven't seen any redhead lady engineers yet. There are a few hot ones, though.

You need to talk to a couple guys from juvey who can show you how to bypass all that mess. You lose the telemetry, but that's not necessarily a bad thing on a joyride.

Wasn't it just the controller box that was removed? How hard can it be to plug it in the same way it came out?

Even the lithium batteries from Shorai (current moto batt of choice for the racers) aren't more than $200. Just substitute a lead acid or gel battery in the meantime if you're really worried about the spendy high-tech lithium one.

The frame is fubar'ed pretty much. Does not match the drawings, not symmetrical, not as many tubes as there should be, and went to comp with some tack welds not stitched. :eek:

The wiring is interesting. I tried connecting the low voltage battery with black to black and red to blue. Turns out that is not right since it got really hot really fast. So I disconnected that. Black to red and blue to black works. Not sure who designed it like that but it wasn't me.

Are they really hot? Or just hot on an enginerd-adjusted scale? Pics if the former.

Haha! He can't. Regular batteries can't keep up with the power drain.

I connected all the big power cables the way they were but it's not working. The other side is not, either. Not even the blinky light that warns people the car is energized.

Break out the multimeter!

How do you expect to do any meaningful suspension design (wasn't that supposed to be some sort of senior project?) if you've got an asymmetrical, not-true, not-even-done-to-plan frame like that?

"Hot" for normal standards, "Really Hot" by engineer standards.

They can if you hook 'em up to a gererator. ;)