Bathroom remodel

[trekkor]

I do not trust the Schluter line of waterproofing products ( orange fabric ).

I use the PVC sheet pan liner and waterproof all my installations myself.
I have torn out hot mopped showers. The tar gets brittle and cracks over time and leaks.


KT

[look 171]

Originally Posted by trekkor

I do not trust the Schluter line of waterproofing products ( orange fabric ).

I use the PVC sheet pan liner and waterproof all my installations myself.
I have torn out hot mopped showers. The tar gets brittle and cracks over time and leaks.


KT

What do you use on top of the PVC to stop the water leak?

[widebody911]

So, apparently a 38" pans are made of unobtanium. I wonder if it would be practical to just fur out the bottom of the shower for the 38" pan, leaving a small 1" "ledge" all around. The extra 2" of elbow room sure would be nice.

Failing that, I'd need someone to float it out "old school" - no idea what that would cost, but one of the reasons I'm DIYing it is to keep costs down.

[VINMAN]

Any of you guys ever use Quik-Pitch for a mud pan?

[widebody911]

Spent the last two hours on my hands and knees in a dirty bathroom - it's like college all over again.

[trekkor]

What do you use on top of the PVC to stop the water leak?

It doesn't leak.
It's like the liner in a pond or above ground swimming pool.


KT

[look 171]

Originally Posted by trekkor

It doesn't leak.
It's like the liner in a pond or above ground swimming pool.


KT

folds in the corners? Thick? I will have to check it out.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by widebody911

Spent the last two hours on my hands and knees in a dirty bathroom - it's like college all over again.

To hot mop that around here (LA) should run you about 275 to 300 bucks.

[trekkor]

I think he is asking for the price to build the curb, pre-slope, water proof the pan, paper/wire and float the entire enclosure.

I would charge $1750.
That is all materials and labor.

You'd be ready to tile after I was done.


KT

[trekkor]

Originally Posted by look 171

folds in the corners? Thick? I will have to check it out.

Yes, I fold the corners.
I use the solvent cement to bond everything together.

After the liner is in, I use 'peel and stick' flashing around the entire perimeter and then the paper flashes over that.






KT

[look 171]

Where do you get this stuff, tile shop? How thick is it? it doesn't get brittle with age and crack?

[trekkor]

Local tile shop or Home Depot carry the material.

The only showers I've torn out that had a PVC liner were due to lack of pre-slope or nails through the liner on the curb or below the water line.


KT

[trekkor]

I wouldn't buy anything from home depot that you expect to last

That's a little much, don't you think?

Besides, all pan liners should be subjected to a 24 hour flood test as part of the local permit/inspection process.


KT

[trekkor]

The items I buy for tile projects at Home Depot are limited to the prep items.

I rarely buy tile from them.


KT

[trekkor]

(400-700$ psf)

Dude, climb back down!

Most master bathrooms have less than 200 square feet of floor and wall.

$80-140,000?!? C'mon...


KT

[IX11rsr]

trekkor,

what's the mixture on the mud...do you get ' em premix or you mix it yourself?

thx.,

[cbush]

I recently found some neat products at "The Tile Shop", a chain here on the Eastern side of the country. Essentially, it makes building a shower tile floor pretty fool proof- from the waterproof membrane to a plastic thing that connects to the drain that provides the right pitch in the floor.
The Tile Shop | Product Detail

Gives you the ability to make a custom shower floor for relatively small $. I haven't used it yet, but will when I do our shower this Summer.

[trekkor]

Pre mix.

We used to mix 3 sand, 1 cement, 1/2 lime.
It's been years. Chopping by hand.

It's all pre mix and in the mixer now.


KT

[widebody911]

Ok, moving out of the shower (sprayed some crap on the studs and waiting for it to dry) I've started tearing out the "main" floor. It's made from similar tile, but set directly on the subfloor, which looks like 1 1/8" plywood. This area is in great shape, and it's a PITA to get the tiles loose. Can I just re-tile back over it, or do I have to use a concrete board underlayment? If I use the underlayment, how do I handle the transition at the door, to the existing carpet in the adjacent room?

[trekkor]

You can set directly on the subfloor.
It has been done that way for years and some of the installls I've encountered take more energy to tear out than they do to re-do.

I still recommend 1/4 inch Hardie backer, though.


KT