Bathroom remodel

[slodave]

The flex hose can get soft when hot water runs through it and causes it to sag. If the drain pipe is a jamb fit, it could pull out above and dump water. Had a dumb landlord/maint. Man who installed one in my upper bath drain, first hot shower and a nice waterfall coming out of a closet downstairs.

[Scuba Steve]

Originally Posted by widebody911

Got the new fixture in today. I'm not very good at sweating fittings, and it took me several tries to get it right.

Looks like a Delta valve?

[look 171]

Originally Posted by widebody911

Got the new fixture in today. I'm not very good at sweating fittings, and it took me several tries to get it right.

Looking good. Many times, the plastic or rubber parts inside the rough valve needs to be remove before sweating so they don't get burn and cause a leak. Reinstall them after they are done. Sometimes it will say in the instructions. I am sure you knew or read that.

[red911sc]

Goggle how to sweat copper. There are step by step instructions and you can find what you are doing wrong. This is how I fixed my issue.

[widebody911]

I didn't have to sweat anything directly onto the valve, and the problem I was having was too much heat. Once I dialed the torch back a bit, things went a lot better.

After all was said and done, I couldn't figure out why I didn't have hot water in the bathrooms. It would be hot for a second, then immediately go cold. The kitchen and garage sink were fine. Well, this fixture comes with a plug to use until you're ready to install the valve, inside, it's all open, so the cold water, with a slighter higher line pressure, was overpowering the hot water. I'll need to temporarily install the valve so we can take showers.

[widebody911]

Got the shower pan put in this afternoon

[widebody911]

Just need to figure out how to sort this out...

[trekkor]

Rip 2x material to the same thickness as the plywood and fasten them to the wall studs.
1/2 green board and float the enclosure.


KT

[widebody911]

First I had to "microfir" to get the wall even with the pan


Then I created a "step" so I don't have to fir-out the entire wall by 1 1/4" on each side. This detail work took forever.


Got the first big piece of HardiBacker test fit. Time for a break

[dad911]

Should fir out the whole wall, so the backer overlaps the flange to prevent leaks.

What are you going to do with the 'step' you made, and the shower door?

[look 171]

I think you might have issues at the corner where the the large piece of Hardy Backer meets the small strip of backer board over time. Like Trek said, fir out the stud with the same plywood. do the whole shower so the step is eliminated. Have the waterproof material hang over the flange then apply the Hardy Backer board over the flange to prevent standing water from seeping. In your second pic, I would rap the plastic all the way down and around so that no wood is exposed. Rap the stud as well. I would also use felt paper.

[Zeke]

If I were sticking with that design in order to make the shower seem larger, I would use strips of solid surface counter material for the "steps." Another way to have done it would have been to fir the pan tight against one wall and fir out the opposite wall twice the thickness half way up making a shampoo shelf.

[widebody911]

Originally Posted by milt

Another way to have done it would have been to fir the pan tight against one wall and fir out the opposite wall twice the thickness half way up making a shampoo shelf.

Not a bad idea - wish I'd thought of that...

[john70t]

One step back, four steps forward sometimes.

[trekkor]

I don't know what to say.
I wish you would have done it my way.

Problems are looming...


KT

[look 171]

If the 2 inches of space is that important, then you might not want to hear this. The better solution is to float the shower and just get rid of the plastic pan all together. Fir out the rest of the walls is the next best solution. You had a leak and rot back there, right? You will be doing it all over again. Is not if, but when. Putting that Jasco stuff would not help in this situtation.

Jeff

[RWebb]

it is a LOT easier to tear that stuff out now, than after problems develop...

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by widebody911

Not a bad idea - wish I'd thought of that...

Sometimes I get paid for my ideas. After all, I've only worked on about 3000 houses and other buildings in 40 years.

[widebody911]

But seriously, what is wrong with my "step"? If I assemble everything in accordance the the mfg guidelines, etc why should I have a problem? I have a 6mil vapor barrier all the wall down, ending just below where the cement board overlaps the shower pan. I've siliconed-up everywhere two pieces of anything come together. From a technical perspective, what is wrong with it?

[turbo6bar]

Originally Posted by widebody911

But seriously, what is wrong with my "step"? If I assemble everything in accordance the the mfg guidelines, etc why should I have a problem? I have a 6mil vapor barrier all the wall down, ending just below where the cement board overlaps the shower pan. I've siliconed-up everywhere two pieces of anything come together. From a technical perspective, what is wrong with it?

If you have screws through the vapor barrier, there's a way for water to get into the framing.

The step is gonna be a bhitch to tile. You need a pitch on the horizontal surface of the "step" to shed water towards the pan.

Take the advice of the guys here. You might get away with what you're doing, but if you have problems, you will regret it and end up doing twice the work.

Just curious why you went with a shower pan instead of a one piece shower stall. If you're trying to save money and time, that is the way to go.

milt, those are great ideas. Also, instead of solid surface, you could use cultured marble.