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EDIT: Just saw your comment. Disregard. |
I owned a S&W .38 AirLite. Can't recall the model. Hammerless. Gave it to my father. I had bought it as a carry gun, but it was just too porky. Replaced with a Sig 938.
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Picked this up this week. 2#trigger. I need a fiberoptic front site that's a tick lower. I'm shooting high at 20 yards |
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Me recently get 75 tactical....expediant as I got it for a good price. Inside rails like sig p210 makes em hot hot hot.. New American made Sig Sauer p210 is choice for 1500. Down side only 8 round sa. Anyway me got Swiss 210-6....bilt like Swiss bank vault. |
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Nice; I like it! Jim, wouldn't a shorter/lower front sight raise your POI?
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I made a BIG Mistake
Boy oh boy did I make a BIG goof with a rifle I bought and then created a very nice very fancy walnut stock. Below is a picture of the original rifle I bought with a Douglas XX 50 caliber round ball stainless barrel that is so rare the man at Douglas remembered making it! I also had Lewis lock and trigger. The lock actually has bronze bushings in all pivot points. So anyways I spent $400 on the nice walnut and spent 5 months remaking the gun as you see in the bottom picture. I used the multi level leather cheek piece on another gun I made 2 years ago. I went to the range Wednesday and after pulling the barrel to wipe the underside with silicone spray looked at my name/date made in the barrel channel to insure it was okay (sort of like a serial number).
Then I thought why not check the original "ugly" stock and what do I fins but the very tiny name of W. J. Terry of Gas City Indiana stamped near the for end of the barrel channel! A listing of his name showed he died at age 79 so I posted on one of the muzzle loading sites and the response was he built the rifle a loooong time ago (as Douglas told me) and was a match winner at Friendship Indiana matches with the NMLRA folks! So now what to do....I plan to get some leather from Tandy and recreate the cheek piece and then transfer all the parts back to the original stock I think. I will definitely be a bigger conversation piece than what I have now but first I have to finish the 45 caliber round ball target pistol I am making. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1569089865.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1569089923.jpg |
Flat Six, you're right
I've been a 1911 guy for 30 years. This has made me change my Religion I double tap a 1911. The CZ can be ran like an AR15 it stays pretty much on target I was shooting a plate competition. And it was quicker to dump 4 rounds at the plate than 2 aim hits. I needed 2 hits on the plate I sent 4 and hit 3 and was in transition to the next quicker |
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I bought a underhammer target rifle with 2 Ken Bresian barrels with False Starters and several sets of Redfield International match sights for 600. |
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https://www.armslist.com/posts/10495576/santa-fe-new-mexico-handguns-for-sale--lightly-used-cz-75 |
https://cz-usa.com/product/cz-75-b-9mm-black-16-rd-
If you can get it under $550 do eet. mag/ Quote:
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My friend carries an alloy frame Compact CZ for a living..it is much lighter.. He also has and likes the New Beretta 92 variant. Not to mention the Glock 19. Honest slightly used is the way to buy em, the same as a car. Prices on slightly used guns is the Distributors price minus a few bucks. I picked my 75 Tactical in case, 4 mags and a holster for 5. |
And a huge amount of aftermarket bits available for it. I swapped out the springs in my CZ 85 and changed the grips, filed the bumps off the sear and it was quite a shooter.
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I got had the idea of putting together a Jeff Cooper Scout type utility rifle after playing around with one of the S&K no gunsmith mounts for doing handload development for a couple of WW2 German Mausers. I dropped a barreled action with the "scout" mount attaching a cheap NCStar pistol scope, in a old cut down WW1 Gewehr-98 military stock, and had fun playing around in the desert with it.
http://www.shedracing.net/imgmisc/ar42/odb_k98a.jpg It was light (not super light, but not horrible) and surprisingly handy, and even the ~24" barrel and garbage scope mounted way too high, worked OK, and got me more interested in the potential of a more developed Scout type rifle. With that idea in mind, last year I picked up a Israeli surplus, Czech/BRNO contract K98 Mauser action, and started gathering parts, trying to hit as many Cooper defined "Scout" features as possible. http://www.shedracing.net/imgmisc/scout/idf_brno_s.jpg I ordered a short-chambered .308 barrel from Brownells. I debated installing and finish chambering it myself, but decided it would be better to let a pro do it, and had a local gunsmith install the barrel, finish the chamber and cut it down to 17.5", and a friend parkerized it for me. For backup sights I cut a dovetail in a Warne rear Weaver base and used a Mini-14 folding rear sight, that is butt-ugly but functional, and leaves the stripper clip guides intact. For the front I used a sight from Nodak Spud made for a Ruger 10-22. The gunsmith turned down the barrel near the muzzle and around the base to the correct OD for the front sight and the scope mount. I used the same old WW1 Gewehr-98 stock, figured I would start with that and see how it turned out. I sanded the hell out of the stock, narrowed it from end to end, cut it down further on both ends, added a Hogue recoil pad, some Grovetec QD sling sockets and finished it up with a old-school Linseed Oil finish. I replaced the original Czech stamped steel bottom metal and magazine for a Parker Hale Aluminum flip-open one to save weight. Installed the Clifton Scout ring and a Burris 2-7X Scout scope. Ended up with this: http://www.shedracing.net/imgmisc/sc...ne_right_s.jpg http://www.shedracing.net/imgmisc/scout/done_left_s.jpg I made a simple 1" nylon web Rhodesian sling, with twist lock swivels, and put a nylon butt-cuff to carry spare ammo. http://www.shedracing.net/imgmisc/scout/spare_ammo.jpg All-in it tips the scales at 7lb 8 oz, slung with the butt cuff but no ammo. Jeff Cooper's target for a Scout Rifle was 7 Lbs, so just missed, but that was kind of expected. I used it in the field last November and shot a nice ~250 lb wild pig with it. It is very handy, points really well, and is very nice to carry. It was in my hand more than it was slung, balanced well and was just a lovely little rifle to carry around all day. Other random thoughts, lessons learned, etc: The ~17" barrel doesn't seem to hurt anything, I can still drive a 150gr Sierra to ~2700 FPS. It is not as accurate as I would like. I admit I didn't expect much for a $90 barrel, and I got what I paid for. The barrel is fully floated, and the action is bedded to the stock. I know some people advocate a pressure point at the front of the stock, and I may try that at some point. As it is, I have full stocked military Mausers with original barrels that shoot better than this rifle. It is about a 2 MOA rifle with handloads, which is still plenty for any hunting I would do with it at a range I would take a shot. I am able to hit a 12" steel plate at 300 yards at will, which is farther than I would be willing to take a shot at game. The trigger is quite workable, but it retains the original military two-stage trigger, that scales around 5.5 lbs. I don't know that improving the trigger will help the accuracy, but it certainly can't hurt. It also retains the original three position Mauser flag safety on the rear of the bolt. For a hunting rifle, this is not optimal, it can't be operated without moving your hand from firing position, and makes more noise than other types where the safety mechanism is enclosed within the stock. In the field I found myself going off safe earlier than I would were I using say a Remington 700, simply because I wanted my hand back where it needed to be if a quick shot presented itself. This part is an advantage of the military trigger, I have faith that it won't go off unless I want it to. I am religious about muzzle awareness and keeping my booger-hook of the bang button. I could have trimmed some more weight with a thinner contour barrel. The Brownells barrel is similar to a Douglas #1 profile, which is not horrible, could be thinner. I don't think I could get below 7 lbs, but would be closer. I could also save weight by going to a fiberglass stock. The Stock with pad installed, bottom metal & screws was 1 lb 14.8 oz, but I hollowed out the butt a bit more since I weighted it last, but then added bedding compound, so it is probably a wash. I expect a good lightweight fiberglass stock would get me to the 7 lb mark as well. With that said, I don't have any intention of replacing the stock, I am partial to oiled wood, even though it has downsides compared to modern composites. I also like the fact that the stock is at minimum 100 years old. Germany stopped making the Gewehr 98 when WW1 ended, so the stock is anywhere between 100 and 120 years old. The Czech contract for Israel K98s was in 1948, so the action is ~51 years old. All in all, I am pretty pleased with how it turned out. It doesn't make the 7 lb weight, but I knew making weight was unlikely going in. It has most of the features Cooper advocated, and is a wonderful handy little rifle. I get why he liked it so much. Tom |
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