Painting Floorboards/Parcel Shelf with Rustoleum?

[Zero-H20]

Hi All,

I've browsed just about every thread on Pelican that covers painting the interior after stripping out all the old sound deadening and adhesive, but want to get some feedback on what I am thinking.

My interior is in pretty good shape with just some very light surface rust on the back seat area, so I don't want to do POR 15. I don't plan on sanding down to bare metal and removing all the seam sealer, so I want something I can paint on before I put in new sound deadening and an RS carpet kit. I'm sure some people would say just put the carpet down, but I'm keeping this car forever and will pass it down to a future kid one day, so I want it to be done right and never have to do it again (within reason - don't have the money to have it stripped entirely and painted the same as it was from the factory).

I found these Rustoleum products that look good for what I want:

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/clean-metal-primer/

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust-advanced/semi-gloss-protective-enamel-spray-paint

My plan is to use Marine Clean first, then paint the primer on with a brush before finishing with the semi-gloss black from an aerosol can. I would love some feedback from people with more experience than me. Would this be a bad move? Will dynamat and carpet glue stick to this? Will it harden up and be durable, or flake off?

[AG81]

I will say that the bond of the primer is probably the most important thing here. Everything hinges on that.

[cfassett]

I dont know anything about Marine Clean. But, I would recommend taking care of the rust before coating it. Phosphoric acid usually works well for this, but make sure you keep it off the plastics and other things and clean it off well with water and then neutralize with water and baking soda mix. Then epoxy primer, followed by a compatible paint.

[cfassett]

Originally Posted by AG81

I will say that the bond of the primer is probably the most important thing here. Everything hinges on that.

Agreed. The most important thing is making sure the area you're about to paint is thoroughly cleaned and prepped. Otherwise your primer wont stick.

[Snitzler]

I used Tremclad which I think is equivalent to Rustoleum. I applied a fairly heavy coat and it covered well but took a really long time to harden. I mean it took about 2 weeks before it was hard. I was starting to get really nervous as I thought I might have to strip it off and try again long!

[Zero-H20]

Originally Posted by cfassett

I dont know anything about Marine Clean. But, I would recommend taking care of the rust before coating it. Phosphoric acid usually works well for this, but make sure you keep it off the plastics and other things and clean it off well with water and then neutralize with water and baking soda mix. Then epoxy primer, followed by a compatible paint.

What about just sanding down that rust? Same result and won't have to use anything harsh, right?

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[Zero-H20]

Originally Posted by Snitzler

I used Tremclad which I think is equivalent to Rustoleum. I applied a fairly heavy coat and it covered well but took a really long time to harden. I mean it took about 2 weeks before it was hard. I was starting to get really nervous as I thought I might have to strip it off and try again long!

That looks sharp! I'll keep the hardening time in mind. Leave it alone for a while before trying to do the carpet. Did you use a primer first, and if so, right on top of the seam sealer with no issues?

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[jac1976]

Originally Posted by Zero-H20

What about just sanding down that rust? Same result and won't have to use anything harsh, right?

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If I were you, I would read more on rust removal/neutralization. The body and paint section is a good place to look.

[Snitzler]

I just cleaned the heck out of everything. Wire brushes, scotch brite, sanding disks and then xylene and a respirator to get the glue off. BTW, horrible job, I had lots of rust and weird glue. I did some tests to see what worked best and the red covered the crap best. I did the corner because of the seam sealant. It did soften the seam sealer but it hardened up with the paint. Tremclad doesn't require a primer, I think Rustoleum is the same. I had hoped that the surface would be good enough to just paint but it is too rough, I am covering it all with RS carpet. I think someone is going to make some money off of me. I am just not good with carpet, I centered that back piece!

[Zero-H20]

How'd you guys clean the metal in prep for paint? Mineral spirits? lacquer thinner? I planned to use Marine Clean - POR 15 folks bought the product and they suggest it as the cleaner before using POR.

[jjeffries]

I think Rust Oleum is under-rated and that the opposite is true of POR15, which can be ok in specific uses (heavily rusted metal where you're looking more to create a tough shell over the affected metal) but absolutely to be avoided in others (on non-corroded metal, to which it may not consistently adhere). Most hardware stores, Tractor Supply etc sell a hardener catalyst liquid that can be added to R.O. to make it dry faster and be more durable to knocks and abrasions.

Anyplace on the car that needs to have an exterior-grade finish should be done with something more specific, such as direct to metal epoxy- or self-etching-primer, as part of a system where all the products, from bottom to top coats are designed to work with one another. But for some place non-appearance critical (eg, floors) I'd use R.O. any day over POR15. John

[Zero-H20]

Glad to hear someone else thinks POR 15 is over kill. Seems like everyone is crazy about it. Now I just have to figure out how many quarts of Rustoleum I'll need...

[Dpmulvan]

Why bust your butt prepping something then use an inferior product to save a couple hundred bucks. In the long run you won't be saving any money.
Why not just do it once the proper way???
Rustoleum and por 15 are for your lawnmower, trailer or lawn furniture.
A quart of two part epoxy or two part etching primer is around a hundred bucks with hardener
A quart of SEM rust shield isn't that much either.

[AG81]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

A quart of SEM rust shield

^
It's what I used. I am a fan of several SEM products.

[jjeffries]

Whatever you use, please invest in an excellent and appropriate respirator and make sure the space is well ventilated. Sounds obvious, but.....

[Zero-H20]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

Why bust your butt prepping something then use an inferior product to save a couple hundred bucks. In the long run you won't be saving any money.
Why not just do it once the proper way???
Rustoleum and por 15 are for your lawnmower, trailer or lawn furniture.
A quart of two part epoxy or two part etching primer is around a hundred bucks with hardener
A quart of SEM rust shield isn't that much either.

If it was in worse condition I would have it stripped entirely and painted professionally, but I'm not taking the glass out or stripping out the seam sealer. Just want to put a coat over everything to ensure no rust spreads and make it look clean. I intend to cover it with carpet as well, so I don't need pristine looking paint (just don't want something that flakes and looks bad).

Originally Posted by jjeffries

Whatever you use, please invest in an excellent and appropriate respirator and make sure the space is well ventilated. Sounds obvious, but.....

On my to-do list to buy a respirator this weekend.

[gtc]

I'm in the middle of the same project myself.

What I've done so far:
1. Chipped off old sound deadening pads from floor. Ripped out carpet.
2. Paint stripper removed the adhesive residue from carpet and sound deadening well, without removing the factory seam sealer or primer.
3. Goo gone spray gel removed the remnants of the side pads (seen in first photo of post #9 above). Let it soak overnight and it came off pretty easily.
4. Mineral spirits to tidy up after the two chemicals above.
5. Scuffed the surface with some sanding sponges. Vacuumed dust.
6. Cleaned the surface with 3m wax and grease remover (Xylene)
7. Primed surface with 2k epoxy primer. Bought two cans for both floors and the firewall, and came out a bit short. Finished it up with some primer from home depot.
(these guys have great prices on paint and supplies. I couldn't find the 2k primer locally.)
8. Next up is spraying down some Lizard Skin sound deadening on everything that resonates - floors, wheel wells, firewall. Then topcoating with something nicer looking... thinking satin black or grey.

[Zero-H20]

Originally Posted by gtc

I'm in the middle of the same project myself.

What I've done so far:
1. Chipped off old sound deadening pads from floor. Ripped out carpet.
2. Paint stripper removed the adhesive residue from carpet and sound deadening well, without removing the factory seam sealer or primer.
3. Goo gone spray gel removed the remnants of the side pads (seen in first photo of post #9 above). Let it soak overnight and it came off pretty easily.
4. Mineral spirits to tidy up after the two chemicals above.
5. Scuffed the surface with some sanding sponges. Vacuumed dust.
6. Cleaned the surface with 3m wax and grease remover (Xylene)
7. Primed surface with 2k epoxy primer. Bought two cans for both floors and the firewall, and came out a bit short. Finished it up with some primer from home depot.
(these guys have great prices on paint and supplies. I couldn't find the 2k primer locally.)
8. Next up is spraying down some Lizard Skin sound deadening on everything that resonates - floors, wheel wells, firewall. Then topcoating with something nicer looking... thinking satin black or grey.

Thank you! I stopped by Home Depot and picked up mineral spirits on my way home today. Paired with scotch brite it did the trick. Side note, mineral spirits in a fresh cut hurts like a mother!!

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[ARad]

Just paint over it with Rustoleum - they are OIL based for metal are the best. I have used those extensively on any metal parts for many years and it takes a few wks to hardened thou but worth every penny for restoration project with no worries for rust to come back ever. Saw it on hand 20 years later still good cond. Rustoleum paint outside on metal!

[roblav]

PPG DPLF epoxy primer is by far the best primer I ever used.