couple more newbie 911 questions

[sb66]

my apologies up front - i am trying to get this back to "feeling and driving right" as best as i can and with little knowledge of the 911 (other than i like it!!). These are in reference to a 1984 911 carrera

the 2 questions are how loose or sloppy does the shifter feel on these and how easily should this "roll" after moving forward or back? - after getting the windows back on track adjusted and working took it out for a spin - i noticed compared to other manual cars and trucks i drive or have driven - the shifter seems slightly wobbly for lack of a better term - sometimes hard to get into gear - not terribly hard but a firm response is needed. mostly first- once in gear its fine - i was not sure if there are some bushings that might need changed or if that is something completely different.

the rolling question - moving in reverse or forward - pop it out of gear or simply engage the clutch and it stops within a few feet - almost like i am applying the break (i am not and the e brake is disengaged - doubled checked on that) -

otherwise the drive was fine and everything seemed to be working just fine - but those 2 concerned me a little (lot)

any help or direction to look would be greatly appreciated

thanks

Sean

[EC900]

I’d say as many, the 915 is unlike any other transmission. It takes a bit of getting used to and don’t expect to slam shift or force it to gear, let the sychros do their thing especially 1-2nd up or downshift when coming to a stop. There’s a trick to do this like double clutch method or nudging the shifter towards 2nd before going back into 1st. It’s definitely something you get used to after awhile of experience.
On how loose? Gotta pull the shifter and check.
There’s going to be some degree wobble in the shifter it never is tight like other manuals.
The slop you’re experiencing happens when the shifter rod nylon bushing wear or completely broken, the socket cup bushing as well, then the shift coupler in back. The subtle wearing out can affect shifting ease into gear. Once bushing are replaced (easy) the shifting improves and may not even need a couple adjustment. Hardest part is extra time to remove the shifter console if you have one.
So Search topics on that as well as Shifting the 915.

On the stopping on coasting issue, could be binding caliper(s) sometimes happens when sitting too long. I had this on a VW, pads were worn and pistons wouldn’t retract.
Raise the car and check how freely the tires rotate, maybe e-brake needs adjustment or you could try use an infrared heat thermometer to check temps variances of the rotors if one is sticking.

If you haven’t yet, buy the 101 Projects For Your 911 from Pelican. Very informative and complements the Bentley manual.

[sb66]

awesome - thanks very very much!! - everything you described with the shifter - spot on - definitely take some time to get used to -
it was sitting longer than i ever wanted it to - my wife inherited the car but she is not as thrilled about driving it as perhaps I am --- but it sat before we got it as well - i will check those pads - see if they are bound up
i did get the 101 and a shop manual to help get through some stuff i will check if i have the bently manual or not. -sometimes those give you enough without going overboard -
this will give me a chance to test out the quick jack on the car...

[vik000]

I had a very similar problem with my (new to me) 79 sc with the rolling issue. The pistons and calipers were apparently installed wrong by the previous owner and all stuck so I ended up having them all changed. It is much better now but still doesnt roll in neutral as much as my 992 C2S does. I wonder if there is still a problem with the e-brake or something else.

[Dr J]

On the rolling question, try to use an IR thermometer after driving around a bit to see if you can identify an overly warm wheel. That would give an indication on which brake is dragging, if any.

[sb66]

solid idea get a read on each - i'll. give that a try

[Otter74]

As mentioned, the 915 needs to be shifted the way it wants to be shifted. New bushings will make a solid improvement. There’s a ball cup at the bottom of the lever, a bushing just behind the shift tower, and the bushings in the coupler under the plate at the back of the tunnel. Go ahead and replace them all. That and adjustment will give you a shifter that feels as good as a stock 915 is going to feel. There are various aftermarket shifter options that make it feel better and give you spring centering between the 1-2 and 3-4 gates.

[sb66]

thanks - i think that "spring centering" is what i may be referring to as loose - it just seems lost in between - i will look to the cup and bushings - otherwise get it on the road and get used to the way it wants to go -

[Dr J]

For that loose feeling, there are several alternatives. One is a simple spring that a gentleman called Karsten developed (this is what I have right now)
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1053247-915-stock-shifter-improvement-spring.html

A second is the Seine shifter which is another spring system but more sophisticated.

Then there are shifter replacements such as Wevo, J West, Numeric and possibly a couple more that add some form of spring system and a slick look but at a significant cost.

Reports on all of these are normally very positive.

[Otter74]

Originally Posted by sb66

thanks - i think that "spring centering" is what i may be referring to as loose - it just seems lost in between - i will look to the cup and bushings - otherwise get it on the road and get used to the way it wants to go -

Yes, the 915 is unlike most other shifters/gearboxes in not having any centering mechanism to hold it in the middle gate. Changing alone makes for a much nicer shifter. Do the bushings first and then see what you think of it. I have a Seine shifter on a factory short shifter with a shift lever extension and I’m happy with it.

[sb66]

thanks everyone - you have been so incredibly helpful!!

[Showdown]

Bushings, a Wevo PSJ and a centering spring and you’re about as good as it can get without opening up the trans and replacing worn/damaged parts

The aftermarket shifters are great but significantly more expensive.

https://stellasautogarage.com/products/915-shifter-spring

https://www.wevo.com/Products/ShifterProducts/WevoShifterProducts_PSJ-911Stock.htm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kmcteer]

On my car, shifting is very precise after replacing the shift linkage bushings and also tightening the shifter fork guide (it is inside the transmission attached to the bottom access plate).

-Kelly

[5ickride]

84 Carrera owner here and your experience with the shifter was exactly what I was going through. It got annoying after a while so at my last service I decided to have them replace the shifter with a JWest shifter along with coupler and bushings...and man...what a difference that made! Shifter repositions itself between 3/4 gear and no loose wobble at all. Has def increased my joy in driving. My 0.2 cents.

[sb66]

thanks very much!! - so much great and helpful information -

[sb66]

sorry to add another weird question - i am not sure this project wants started ---this has a wheel lug lock on - i have no clue what they did with the key - is there a sfe way to remove it with out the key or a way to find a replacement?

thanks

[sb66]

i was looking at the bushing kit for the 1984 911 carerra

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELBUSHKIT1N.htm?pn=PEL-BUSHKIT1N&bc=c&SVSVSI=0579#techArticlesAnc

and noticed many were concerned with the tight fit - is that normal and are you allowed to add any silicone grease when installing? also, does this replace all of the bushings associated with the shifter?

thanks
Sean

[EC900]

On the bushing kit the two black one are for the shift coupler. Check the coupler beforehand to see if it’s needed or was replaced, expect some wiggle in the coupler bushings.
The cup and shift rod are the other two. The shift rod bush needs to be placed in hot water to make it flexible and will pop in easily. Look up JPNovak “Ultimate Shift Rod Bushing” here on Pelican Forum he has a hard plastic one that’s longer and I’m very pleased with its function and easy installation.
Cup bush can be stubborn to pull out and push in, silicone helps get it in easier.
Consider the throttle rod bushings too there’s 3 along tunnel, they’ll stabilize the rod from getting hung up. Also bell crank bushing on pedal cluster.
Essentially any and all old yellowed bushing should be replaced as tho will disintegrate unexpectedly.

As for wheel lug lock, I had a tire shop remove one once. Not sure if they had any special tool
but in the days of old, some grease monkeys would hammer/jam a U.S.A. Craftsman deep socket over the lock lug and it would grip enough to remove it. Then take the lifetime gauranteed Craftsman socket back to Sears Roebuck for a new one.

[sb66]

awesome thanks - gotta love those lifetime guarantees

[T6andT]

Another option that I have used on bad bolts (mostly on the tractor, but same principal)
THINKWORK Bolt Extractor Kit, 32-Piece Nut Extractor Socket Set, 1/4" & 3/8" Drive Rounded Bolt Remover, Lug Nut Removal Tool for Damaged, Rusted, Rounded-Off, Stripped Fasteners


https://www.amazon.com/THINKWORK-Extractor-Stripped-Extraction-Rounded-Off/dp/B09WMH8KP7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3RJGEJYRPNKP9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.bkzWDReqXPLsh9f22GucNMbJzApyQuIXs c4wIXoZz3nkrEDjXT1LfLGRaf3OryyvigT8ihrc68G_D5Q3A5X TcLoTj-rdoKoIKl8dWbKGyr1c1rIeUHCFs7DOhIa9G3c_TWDt6ak5p26L D1gE0FMLLlaOsRL0CzvEIhJCy7i16xqxeUZuq88tUwurcgAF0t 2eloRCoQEOER7MfKQ2Ajbbv4RIO_w8J5W8yUXkIuxjCy8nTxxf 8o3E1REI4_9CdsO4MW5GHyPSilVJ7jbHbrjteTR7fOOy7QXGyT 1V-kXmm9E.-hyIoWNgeqvX4gpyc6hAMYKI9axCWNnDb0gp6fvhx20&dib_tag=se&keywords=bolt%2Bextractor%2Bkit&qid=1755379005&sprefix=bolt%2B%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1