WOW! I don't know if I'd have time, money or ambition for a project like that!
My car had no rust and still broke me with upgrades and repairs!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267458502.jpg

I was right there with you too.....my rear parcel shelf was nothing but fiberglass bondo. Such a mess but now replaced and all is right in my porsches world!

No, it just had the look I get when the Argon isn't flowing or i'm too far away with the tip. It's fine, be proud of what you are accomplishing!
:D

Tip closer and check the Argon flow - got it! Thanks Gary. The metal is so thin, I'm afraid I'll blow holes if I get too close or stay on the trigger. I need to practice on some scrap pieces before moving forward.

Subscribed, I have a 1970T with similar issues, they are a labor of love.

Just an offer for advice. If you don't already have one. Go to Harbor Freight and get an instant-on welding helmet. It will be the best $40 you'll ever spend... I promise. Then you can be on and off the trigger as much as you need and believe me, you don't want to be on it continuously, you will simply blow holes through the metal. At the same time, you want to get good penetration, (still talking about welding here) which means lots of heat. So enough heat to ALMOST blow a hole, then stop for a second or two, trigger again, repeat as necessary.
It looks like you got your hands full, good luck!

So much for the first weld - it was rubbish I tell you! Found a bunch of pinholes after applying primer. Had to go back and re-weld until all the pinholes were gone. Turning the power down on the welder helped too.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268799056.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268799081.jpg

It doesn't look like I'll have to cut the rain chanel on the driver's side?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268799360.jpg

And, as expected, found more rust and fiberglass in both rockers. :o Doesn't look too bad though, I might be able to get away with patches instead of replacing the whole thing. (it seems for now anyway) The journey continues...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268799803.jpg

Really curious about how you're gonna solve that issue with the rockers. Our '67 has the same issue right now

The inners look nasty too. Spotweld cutter and new outers/inners..... I have sets waiting to go into my car too. My car looked pretty good.... till I ground like 1/2" of bondo off the rockers, and could see the inners :p

Careful with cutting too much at once. I know it seems like an oxymoron, but the rsuty panels still lend some rigidity to the body. Cut too much out and you'll wish you'd welded in a body jig. Take it slow, replace one piece at a time, ensuring one repair doesn't get in the way of the next.

Good work man...you sure do take on a project with gusto. Anyhow, the local guys are here to help, if needed. Just ask.:)

Hey Brian, I got a new 13 amp angle grinder for my birthday last week. I was going to break it in on the Land Rover frame, but...

I was thinking that your Porsche was either parked next to your Pacific Ocean for awhile, or it's from the Salt Capital, Detroit!

Hey , Brian
It looks like you've got your work cut out for you for the next year or so !
I've just finished mine , Your Duck Tail turned out great , I'll post some pics this weekend !

Thanks for the support and kind words gentlemen. I was just about to throw in the towel...just kidding;)
While we're here, does anyone know what this is:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268924744.jpg

Is it factory or another patch attempt? I've seen rectangular stampings in this location on other cars but never saw it in "bare metal" form. It's very soft metal, I can move it around - aluminum? What's the purpose? Aren't there issues with dissimilar metals being in contact for long periods? I know it was a definite "no no" with Boeing aircrafts developing corrosion.

Looks like lead. Probably an unfamiliar sight on a Boeing, but a great factory filler on cars!

It's lead; you'll find it on joints all over the car. I heat it up and coax it into a glass jar. If you have plans on attacking the a pillars at the cowl then you'll really get some experience with it.

What is a good alternative for its use then? I abhor body filler. Leave the gaps untouched?

:cool: Hey Brian, heres the pics of your duck tail that you sold me.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1269302519.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1269302624.jpg

Mich Matt- Replacewith more lead. It's calming to work with and gives great results. Just watch out for signs of mercurial madness. (kidding, do the normal H&S recommendations for lead HAZMAT)

There is a good synthetic lead mimic aroud that is applied the same way- blowtorch etc. Can't remember the name but I've use it with reasonably good results. The real deal is much better though, just be careful. Now, where is my hat? lol.

I've seen "plumbers solder" used for the same thing.

You know the big thick bars of solder plumbers use for sealing gutters.

If you know someone who works/worked in the telecommunications field they may be able to put you in touch with a linesman.
They make gas tight seals in cable with solder... These guys are good.

Anyway I watched one of these techs re-lead a friends ancient Austin Healy.
Just plumbers solder, a gas torch and a swipe of leather. He made it look easy.