OK, nobody has ever answered this shifting question fully

[69911e]

Originally Posted by Arnoud911Targa

Looking at the explanation above, when I push it against the stop it will grind when engaging reverse. I only can make it better by increasing the travel, decreasing is making the grinding worse. I changed about everything over the past two years, clutch, gearbox overhaul, release fork, pilot bearing, flywheel

Did you check/change the clutch cable and pedal roll pin? Either one of these can act like a spring is in the system and therefore require more travel.

The statement "slightly above floorboard stop" is to ensure there is a disengagement margin available. 5-10% of total travel is my minimum comfort level.

[Arnoud911Targa]

Thank you Reiver and 69911e,

Worn release fork sound logical, I know I replaced it for an slightly better one, but I guess that was penny wise pound foolish. Putting in a new one would have been better.

I'll check de the pedal roll pin, I do not know how I can check the cable, it seems to be OK.

[Arnoud911Targa]

Performed the test today, but it is still grinding when engaging reverse :-(

Still, increasing the travel made quite a bit improvement but I'm definitely not out of the Woods yet.

So possible causes: pilot bearing, worn release fork, sticky clutch plate...... ?

I replaced about everything but still not solved the issue:
• gearbox overhaul
• New clutch
• New flywheel
• New pilot bearing
• Other used release fork

How can I check if it is the pilot bearing, even with the gearbox off the engine I never noticed anything wrong with it. The last engine drop was a 3.6 conversion in which I replaced flywheel including new pilot bearing and new clutch, the only thing old is the clutch fork and the clutch cable..

[HawgRyder]

For the pilot bearing...if in doubt...replace it.
The cost is not the bad...and at least you will know you have a good one.
Just lubricating the old one is only a temp fix.
Also...check the condition of the pilot shaft carefully...make sure there is no galling or rough surface.
Bob

[Arnoud911Targa]

Yup, will have to drop my engine again . I'll replace the pilot bearing and release fork. Pilot bearing is new, but I can't remember if lubricated the thing when I put it in.

[Eagledriver]

Originally Posted by Jerome74911S

My understanding is that if you push the clutch pedal down with your hand, at some point you will feel the effort lessen. At this point you will have reached the point of maximum release of the clutch disk, and so if the pedal goes down further (because of the position of your stopper on the floorboard), you will be going 'backwards' and allowing the clutch to engage once again. To eliminate this possibility, adjustment of the stopper is important, so that the length of the pedal travel is correct.

Do I have this correctly understood? Anyway, I still have trouble to get the gearshift lever out of gear as the trans gets hot.

This is not correct. The spring might get easier but the clutch pressure plate will release more the further you push on the pedal. If you go too far you will start to get noise from stuff rubbing in the bell housing.

-Andy

[Jerome74911S]

Originally Posted by Eagledriver

This is not correct. The spring might get easier but the clutch pressure plate will release more the further you push on the pedal. If you go too far you will start to get noise from stuff rubbing in the bell housing.

-Andy

Then is stuff rubbing in the bell housing the only reason for the adjustable clutch pedal stopper on the floorboard?

[Arnoud911Targa]

Tested this morning. When cold like first start in de morning no grinding when I go from neutral into revers, not even when I rev it up a bit. But after like 5 minutes of driving it will start to shift harder, you really can feel that the sincro's have a tuff time to do there job when going from 1 to 2 or from 3 to 2 or from 2 to 1. When warm it will grind when I do the test shift from neutral to reverse. I also hear a bit of a klonking/Klacking noise which to me looks like the pressure bearing has a bit of play and is klonking within the release fork. Clutch is engaging like halfway, so I do not want to do anything with the padel travel anymore.

Possible issues when hot?:
Pilot bearing not running well making the whole thing spin.
Sticky clutch, not releasing well enough no matter how far je push the pedal.
Pressure bearing bad, making the whole thing spin

So it looks like I really have to take it apart, but then I do not even know how I can see which part is failing. I already replaced everything besides the release fork (different one but used).

[Jerome74911S]

As the OP of this thread, may I bring the discussion back around to my somewhat different issue?

When hot, as in after an hour's running, I find it physically hard to push or pull the shift lever out of gear. I mean, I really have to pull forcefully to get it out of third (for example), but while it is not smooth going into the next gear, there is no gear crunching at all. Shifting into reverse does not even need a wait - it slips into that gear easily.

The trans was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago. Can this possibly be a linkage issue?

What?

[E Sully]

Flywheel may be warped.

[Reiver]

Jerome,
I had a similar issue and found it to be my cable.....old/stretched and at max adjustment. Your '74 works differently than my SC but it could be the issue.
It worked great when cool/ not as well when very hot on a long run. I'd guess I was 'in spec' (barely) when cold but heat and expansion put me out of spec for throw and disengagement....just a tad but enough to feel drag on the shifter/ no crunching either.

[Jerome74911S]

Originally Posted by Reiver

Jerome,
I had a similar issue and found it to be my cable.....old/stretched and at max adjustment. Your '74 works differently than my SC but it could be the issue.
It worked great when cool/ not as well when very hot on a long run. I'd guess I was 'in spec' (barely) when cold but heat and expansion put me out of spec for throw and disengagement....just a tad but enough to feel drag on the shifter/ no crunching either.

Thank you, I appreciate the advice. As it happens, I have a brand new clutch cable (from PP) sitting in my shop, waiting to be installed. The old one is not stretched to the point of being at the end of its possible adjustment, but the casing is kinked and ancient looking, so it needs replacement in any case. We'll see what happens.

[thumbdoctor]

Just to understand what you're describing. Once warm, the gear shifter presents difficulty engaging and disengaging. If you stop the vehicle, does it exhibit the same problem stationary or does the issue present itself only while accelerating / decelerating. Where I'm going with this is the possibility the transmission supports are deflecting to the point that the shift input shaft may be rubbing against the tunnel. I had a customer's car which had some strange shifting behavior caused by an errant jacking procedure thus damaging the transaxle's cross member and once the area was warm (heat exhausted from the flapper boxes) shifting was compromised.

[fanaudical]

Jerome - Please check that new cable length against the cable you pull out. My new cable ended up being a bit too long and I'm already at the end of my adjustment. I wish I had discovered this and sent it back before running it on the car. This cable length issue has been documented in other threads.

[Jerome74911S]

Originally Posted by thumbdoctor

Just to understand what you're describing. Once warm, the gear shifter presents difficulty engaging and disengaging. If you stop the vehicle, does it exhibit the same problem stationary or does the issue present itself only while accelerating / decelerating. Where I'm going with this is the possibility the transmission supports are deflecting to the point that the shift input shaft may be rubbing against the tunnel. I had a customer's car which had some strange shifting behavior caused by an errant jacking procedure thus damaging the transaxle's cross member and once the area was warm (heat exhausted from the flapper boxes) shifting was compromised.

Hmmm. OK, I'll look into this, too. Thanks.

[Reiver]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

Jerome - Please check that new cable length against the cable you pull out. My new cable ended up being a bit too long and I'm already at the end of my adjustment. I wish I had discovered this and sent it back before running it on the car. This cable length issue has been documented in other threads.

mine was a bit long too but you can take up the 'slack' at the front clevis pin assembly. Disregard the clevis 'appropriate length' adjustment in the manual and screw it all the way with enough threads for the lock nut. That'll give you plenty of adjustment on the tranny side.

[EdT82SC]

Hi Jerome,

Did you ever solve your problem? I have the same problem (getting stuck in gear after transmission gets warm), and I was following your thread with great interest in hopes of finding a solution.

Thanks,
Ed

[Jerome74911S]

Hi Ed,

Today I replaced the clutch cable, the bushings in the shifter, and I will examine the transmission cross member as best I can for any damage. A casual glance shows it to look OK, but I'll measure. Maybe can I fabricate some deflectors for the heat from the flapper boxes.

Since it is deep winter here, I can't go for a drive to test if any of these measures make a difference, but I'll revive this thread if I find useful information.

[wayner]

I'm subscribing to this thread because it is exactly what I am experiencing on my recently rebuilt 915.