Each to thier own, it's a Wevo SL shifter, feels great in the hand!

First real road drive yesterday, needs an alignment but overall feels pretty good.

Questions for all, since I've not driven a turbo before:

1. what idle noises are normal in the cabin? No carpet, etc, I hear some gurgling and a slight whine from the dash area?
2. How long does it take to open the front oil lines? 100c on the gauge?
3. I'm installing a rear sway that connects to the rear eccentric bolt (new in kit from Weltmeister), can I install after an alignment or will I need to realign after I put the new bolt in?
4. How does a car feel that has not been aligned? Mines a little jittery right now, assume it's all from needing an alignment?
5. Do I wait to recenter the steering wheel tip after an alignment?

Thanks all

Looking good.

Gurgling can happen when the thermostat opens (usually 180 F) to front cooler and purges any trapped air. The whine most likely is fuel pump. Did you use isolators when mounted?

I would not worry about handling till you have it aligned and corner balanced. It would be a miracle if you even got it close. I’m not familiar with Weltmeister kit, but if it uses the eccentric bolts, I would install before alignment and set your ride height before alignment as well. The shop will set the steering wheel tip to center and adjust toe, providing it is close.

Good luck. The Hawk is in 3 weeks.

Thanks jay, I forgot all about the rubber isolation around the new front fuel pump, I'm sure that's it!

How long does it take to get to 180/80c? I drove about 2 miles today in total, never got hot oil to the front pipes yet, gauge was just under 80c if it's working?

Also had a fun brake line blow out... only one I didn't replace! Thank god I made sure my emergency brake was working. New lines in and drove great!

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Hi Bryon – for oil temp, the gauge may be off a bit. The oil temp sender should match the gauge. If you have 72 gauges and 86 sender this may give you a bogus reading. Check the date on the oil temp gauge and give the boys at Palo Alto Speedo a call to get the right sender. Or better yet, check the oil temp directly against gauge. I use a K-thermocouple with Fluke multi-meter and dip the oil tank. If the gauge temp matches, you’re good, if not make sure sender matches gauge.

17 days till Hawk. No pressure
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These are the words I was hoping to see.

The thermostat is always "open" to allow oil to flow to the front coolers. When truly open, the thermostat allows cool oil back into the tank. It would probably be wise to have an infrared thermometer gun when diagnosing the cooling system. Great diagram of thermostat operation:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/927332-how-external-oil-thermostat-works-illustration.html

The sway bars will mount on what (I believe is) the toe-out bolt, so monkeying with that will tarnish a good alignment. I would do that before getting one. The alignment shop should straighten the wheel. The car will feel "weird" when misaligned, and that feeling increases with speed.

If I'm not mistaken, I think that's a welt strut bar that may need modifications where it attaches at the strut?
I bet that's a hoot to drive, cant believe the duck tail worked.

Thanks all, just ordered a temp gun and wireless meat thermometer to check the temp gauge.

For the strut bar I drilled to top out so the nut passes thru like everyone on here said to do.

The duck tail fit with a bit of tweaking, but it looks so sweet, especially with a turbo hidden under the hood! I'm gonna epoxy prime it to drive this summer then work in bringing it back to the 72 long hood widebody look this winter... then the turbo will be hidden even more!

The rear anti-sway bar is designed so that mounting and removing the drop links are done without affecting the alignment.
Just be sure to lock the head of the through-bolt with your wrench to be certain. Watch your torque values.

Disconnect the bar prior to the alignment and/or corner balance. The shop will usually do this if you don't.
When you re-connect, eliminate any pre-load by adjusting the length of the drop links.

Bill K

I hear some gurgling and a slight whine from the dash area?"
It's coming from the fuel pump if you have low fuel . I had the same on my first drive , I was about to post it here , went to the gas station filled up and all gone .

Thanks! I was wondering about that since I only have 2-3 gallons of fuel now In the tank.

Spent this am block sanding and priming the front bumper and making a new grill for it. Blocking the rest of the car next weekend and then shooting it all flat white epoxy primer for the summer shakedown. And I fabricated some new interior door pulls, love the grommets in leather.

Getting closer every day.
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Redid all the front turn signal and headlight wiring today, lots of screwed up hacks in the wiring, now all fresh and new. tomorrow is sand and primer day!
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I love this build! Too bad it was short-hood converted, but you definitely did the short-hood wide body look justice.

Don't worry, it's only staying short hood for a bit. I've already collected 80% of the parts needed to bring it back to a long-hood widebody look like it should be... 1972 widebody turbo!

Please say you'll restore the fender-mounted oil cap? That would be AMAZING!

Yes I'm looking for all the 72 parts for that too

Mine is a 70, I will be collecting parts soon .
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Sanding, priming and sanding all day. It's really close to good for the epoxy white primer. Just need to tweak a few things and I'll shoot it. It feels so good to be close to making it street ready for this summer!

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Bumpers and ducktail epoxy primered and ready to go, tomorrow night I'm shooting to paint the car!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1499741045.JPG
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Well we had flooding here in Wisconsin so I have not worked on the car for a while, finished more sanding and prep today, starting to come together, all I need is a les humid day so I can finish the epoxy!

Also, got some centers for cheap, redid them today while it rained
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