It should open all the way. The butterfly should be strictly vertical - and yes it makes a huge difference. I had to cut down the rods a little, but now it is perfect. Great kit - I've used it 3 times now.

Yes, they should open up all the way. It does take some adjustment to get there.

Review the linkage install starting on post 239:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/10159553-post239.html

The key to getting it adjusted so they open all the way are these three steps:

The length of the two rods should be as even as possible at approximately 9" eyelet to eyelet when the center pivot is parallel to the center-line of the car. Adjust by spinning the eyelet on the end when it's loose to the proper length.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1877/...84e70def_b.jpg

With both linkage rods and bolts installed, the center pivot should twist freely by hand, both ITBs should open freely and complete, and then close completely and freely upon release. If this does not happen, it's likely due to the ITBs binding. The fix is to slightly loosen all the manifold nuts and bracket bolts, then open & close the ITBs a few times to relieve the binding, then re-secure the nuts and bolts.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1852/...19f76cff_b.jpg

Last up is the bellcrank linkage rod. This should be approximately 6" eyelet to eyelet. This one may need to be cut down 1/4"-1/2" to take out some play.

Similar to the ITB linkage rods, the one should have a very little amount of play and the throttle/idle should not be affected when adjusting the length. It should be just loose enough to not engage the throttle. All idle adjustment should be made by the throttle stop screws and not the linkage rods.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1880/...38bb5ca6_b.jpg

Small suggestion for this Clay. Supply those rods assemblies in turnbuckle style so they don't have to constantly be removed to be adjusted. All Lambo/Ferrari ITB carb setups with opposing banks always use turnbuckles. Makes life easier :D

Clay I received my ITB kit very impressed

David

Very helpful Clay, thanks. I’ll tinker with it and see where it’s at. Having the measurements is especially helpful and I don’t know how I missed those before, thanks!

Looks like an awesome kit. Expect an order from me very soon as I rebuild this turd.. 79 big port motor currently in shipping. This thread has been a plethora of info!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9871024927.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3dd5c54b37.jpg

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^^^What's up, JC!
Having seen your R32, I can't wait to see what you cook up for the 79.
I'm trying like hell to get my 79 in shape for WITW2020. Hope to see you there.

/threadjack

Hey man!! Definitely will be at Wookies, but the goal is to bring the rallye.

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What size fuel pressure regulator is everyone using?

I ended up using a Tomei with #8 barb fittings. Part number TB507A-0000A
Its got that quality Japanese look to it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1566438217.jpg

I went with this guy, https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/new-a1000-regulator-orb-08/. Now I don’t have my system installed yet and currently trying to remember where I “safely” stored it because I am close to the plumbing stage...

Of other note I am also planning on running a t off of it and plugging the ends of the ccm fuel rails. Ran this by Andrew at Rasant and he said it is possible, just might take a second to come up to pressure. I like the idea of not having to run the fuel line connecting the two fuel rails over the fan.

I bought this but haven't installed yet. I plan to run from filter to DS rail, over the fan, PS rail, FPR, then back to tank.

I crossed over the fan to connect both banks in series. A picture is worth a thousand words:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1566492105.jpg

Those of you that added some springs to the return movement, mind sharing some pics? I cannot get a consistent balance between my ITBs to save my life. Anytime I drive they are out of whack. I'm about ready to tear apart all the hex set screw and Philips balance screws and reapply blue Loctite, but I want to make sure they all snap close as well, which was an issue on one of my banks. I've got a pretty ghetto spring setup on that side but want to clean it up.

It was quite hard to get both banks to open at the same time. I probably had to do it 4 or 5 times to get it right and spend about an hour each time. However, now I have very smooth even response even with as little as 1-2% throttle. Like butter!

I used Dorman Help Throttle Return Spring Assortment (google that phrase to see the exact $5 part I used) from the FLAP store. I used one spring on the 4,5,6 bank to pull the throttles fully closed. I used another one on the bell crank to pull it closed. This helped get things sync'd for me.

You can see my spring in the pics at the top of this page, this is mainly used just to keep tension on the linkage when i'm working on it so the pedal side of the linkage doesn't fall down.

They should snap closed on their own with the triumph linkage, if they don't, they may be bound up. Loosen up the bolts that hold the ITBs to the manifold, exercise the ITBs several times, ensure the fuel rail brackets are straight, then tighten the bolts back up. This should eliminate any binding issues and allow them to snap closed easily.

Also, make sure when you're adjusting the ITB linkage that the center pivot is disconnected, start with the hex set screw first to set the first ITB, then the phillips to set the last two, repeat on the other bank, then balance both banks to each other with the hex to set the idle when warm, then attach the center pivot linkage. The linkage rods should be just barely loose with no tension on them at idle.

It takes some fiddling, but you should be able to get a consistent balance

Good luck!

Also, you need to pay attention the the small aluminum plates made for this kit. You may need to twist them a bit, otherwise the pull is crooked which will counter the effect of the springs.

Yeah, I was getting them all balanced alright and I could rev and they would all return and stay equal. It was once I actually put any load on the motor (e.g. drive down the street), one bank's hex set screw would back itself down and would cause the right bank to close more than the left, or the left side wouldn't close quite to the set screw, which a spring helped with, it just wasn't the prettiest solution. Also the #4 screw would back itself out just enough to throw it out of balance. I just added some Loctite to the biggest culprits, so hopefully it's good to go now.

Again Clay, the kit is great and well thought out, thanks for the help. The car sounds mean as hell.

Clay, your ITB/EFI installs are among the very cleanest on the board.
When you wired up your car, what was your process?
I feel like you wired up the engine before it was installed and then ran the loom into the car to finish it up. I'm at the point of installing the ITBs and EFI on my car and I intend to have it end up reasonably tidy. Any pointers/tips you can offer would be much appreciated.

I wired the engine while it was in the car so I could ensure all the lengths were correct, but this was pretty difficult in the tight areas.

I'd recommend wiring it outside the car if possible, then install the engine, then install the harness into the cabinet.