Triumph ITB - AEM Infinity Project
 

Very interested to see what you come up with from RHD, Al.

For now the Triumph's are working great!

http://s35.photobucket.com/user/c_hundley86/media/porsche/5EF29283-3FFC-4699-866B-4AA08FF17633_zps6xd3l3qg.mp4.html

Beautiful setup! I was considering doing a job like this on my 190E 2.3 16V back in the day, but a PCS and engagement killed that project off... Curious to know, how much of a HP/TQ gain did you realize? Did you do a before and after dyno?

I have not made it to the dyno yet, but hope to do so soon.

It's been awhile since i've updated this thread, but I have continued to tinker with my setup.

First up, was the linkage. The modified PMO/Weber crossbar setup worked well, but once i installed the rainhat airfilters, it limited the range of motion.

So here's what I did:

The fuel rail and idle stop bracket have accessory brackets on them that will no longer be used and interfere with the new linkage.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...g?t=1491178142

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...g?t=1491181970

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psqurfucyz.jpg


Remove the throttle body on the end without the throttle position sensor by removing the 4 torx screws

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps9jloejtv.jpg

Note: There is a spring between the linkage that will fall out, save this.

Cut the ITB bracket to remove the vacuum brackets and shorten it to only connect to the first two throttle bodies

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pspi4ci9rj.jpg

Cut the fuel rail bracket to remove the extra bracket. Reinstall without the cable linkage bracket.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psmcd8ibou.jpg

Once the end TB was out of the way, the middle linkage arm was replace with one I made

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psqe2yl2ss.jpg

The Triumph linkage arm is held on with a 10mm nut. There is a lock washer with tabs that must be bent over prior to the nut removal.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps0mihqoj7.jpg

Leave the nylon washer in place.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psm61b3n7d.jpg

Install the new linkage arm. Reinstall lock washer and 10mm nut. Bend washer tabs up.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps2ziypdsv.jpg

Then re-installed the fuel rail bracket with (6) torx screws.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...g?t=1491178813

Reinstall the linkage spring between the new linkage arm and the old one.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psxso6easv.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psqzdjetlv.jpg

Reinstalled the modified idle stop bracket.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...g?t=1491178769

Then the linkage rods are attached to the new linkage arms

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psagyhwckt.jpg

For the center pivot I waterjet cut a bracket that attaches to the oil breather and with some hardware and nylon washers provides a base for the linkage to tie into and pivot on.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psi539et2w.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...g?t=1491181648

Then used linkage rods with swivel ends to connect it all.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psmtf7yrxe.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7ttdqwwc.jpg

Very, very nice!

Thanks!

I also had some fuel rails made with -6AN threads on the ends. The early Triumph motorcycles came with aluminum fuel rails, that I had, but the later ones came with plastic rails. The new rails replace the plastic ones, and are much cleaner than the stock triumph aluminum rails.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psi8cu1wn3.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psgpkjodfx.jpg

Love the mockup workspace table image.

Great stuff. Love it. Pm sent

looking good clay.

That's impressive.

Thanks guys. I realize I didn't post the new setup installed

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pstkoarvsy.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psllk6ctx0.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pssfrhaevk.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psqciogrxd.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psesun5hzu.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pslb86ytxf.jpg

And a video of the linkage in motion:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pstvkcnvo9.mp4

What motor size will the ITBs work on ?

are they closer to a Weber 40mm or 46mm ?

will it work on a 2.0 on the street?

When are you going to build one for my 78 SC motor?

Seriously you could build this into a nice kit for people like me who have no motor mojo.

Looks awesome.

Hey Clay,

Any reason why you didn't put the new linkage arm between 4 and 5 on the left bank? Woudn't it be straighter?

Nice work again!

Super impressive Clay! The linkage is a thing of beauty... Very well executed sir!

David

Looks great!

Thanks man, it is simple, but was a huge help and saved me from taking my car apart every time I wanted to mess with it.

SmileWavy SmileWavy SmileWavy

I conferred Al as he is the resident Triumph expert and this is what he had to say in regards to sizing,

"The Triumph ITBs are 42/43mm. And they will support a lot of HP.

The table below can be used to help estimate the correct size ITB

40mm 265cfm 61Hp 350-500 cc/cyl

42mm 304cfm 70Hp 450-600 cc/cyl

45mm 362cfm 83Hp 550-700 cc/cyl

48mm 408cfm 94Hp 650-800 cc/cyl

This is a broad brushstroke, but a:
2.0 is (2000/6=333CC/cylinder) even 40mm is a bit too much.
2.7 is (2700/6=450CC/cylinder) high end of the 40mm, low end of 42mm
3.2 is (3200/6=533CC/cylinder) right in the center of 42
3.6 is (3600/6=600cc/cylinder) time to move up to 46's

So...for the 2.0, i'd move to the smaller Triumph ITBs used on the 500-ish bikes. These also have an oval port and have approx 75% of the cross sectional area of a 40mm dia port."


The throttle stop is located there and its not worth moving in my option.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pscnoubqxo.jpg

Thank you sir

Thank you

Here is how the linkage is adjusted to balance everything out.

A synchrometer, available from the host (Part #: PEL-PMO-STE-BK), is used to measure the kg/h at each cylinder.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps6ir1doln.jpg

First, the 3 linkage rods must be left loose at the center pivot

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psjkilosnd.jpg

With the car running, likely roughly, start at cylinders #1 and #6. They are adjusted with the throttle stop adjustment screw. This is a 2.5mm allen head. Turn the screw in and out to get an kg/h reading of about 5-6 which should set the idle around 900-1000 rpm.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psbs57pe0k.jpg

Repeat on the right bank on cylinder #6

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa1rokyn7.jpg

Once both idle stops are adjusted evenly, the engine should be running much smoother.

Next up is to balance each bank, starting at cylinder #2

Using a phillips screw driver, turn in and out the adjustment screw between the first and second throttle body until the kg/h reading is as close as possible to cylinder #1. Check the readings between #1 & #2 as adjustments are made.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psisolosra.jpg

Then move to cylinder #3, turn the adjustment screw between the second and third throttle body to match the readings of #1 & #2. This one will likely be the furthest off as removing and replacing the linkage arm and spring throws this off. Check the readings between #1, #2 & #3 as adjustments are made.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pssyaslph7.jpg

Once the drivers side bank is complete, everything on that side should be very close to being even. Then repeat the process on the passenger side starting with #5. The adjustment screw is located between #6 & #5.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psemexosyx.jpg

Lastly, adjust the screw between #4 & #5 to set the kg/h on cylinder #4.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pssf5pqtjf.jpg

Once each bank is balanced both to each other (1-3 and 4-6) and to the opposing bank (drivers vs passenger) the idle set screws can be adjusted to set the idle. The banks should be balanced, so you should not have to adjust the phillips screws, just the 2.5mm allen for the idle stop.