Once the idle is set and everything is balance, the linkage rods can be connected. The length of the two rods should be as even as possible. Adjust by spinning the eyelet on the end when it's loose to the proper length. There should be no change in idle with these connected, there should be a little play before the throttle is engaged.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pskb0rv0v0.jpg

If they haven't been installed already, the linkage rods can be bolted to the ITB arms.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pska5n2cyk.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps3azhncer.jpg

The ITB arm on the passenger side may need to be twisted slightly to achieve the correct linkage rod angle.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psanuxlncr.jpg

Last up is the bellcrank linkage rod.

Similar to the ITB linage rods, this one should have a very little amount of play and the throttle/idle should not be affected when adjusting the length. It should be just loose enough to not engage the throttle.

This arm also needs to be twisted slightly to achieve the correct linkage rod angle.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psuzraryws.jpg

The last bolt can now be installed and air filters back on.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7puqxh8j.jpg

I have a spring installed on my car between the manifold and CIS bellcrank. This is mainly to keep the bellcrank in the "up" position while installing everything else, but it does help with the throttle return. If all the linkage is adjusted correctly, it should be smooth and the ITB springs are enough.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pska5n2cyk.jpg

Nice and clean - thanks for posting this setup.

Thanks man and you're welcome, i'm happy to share any info with the community.

Just went through this entire thread. Good thing it was a slow Friday, and the boss had left early. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/grin.gif

Amazing work. Very inspiring.

Pete
'67 Datsun roadster frame-off in progress
'71 914 waiting patiently for love
'08 Boxster S RS60 Spyder aka Debbie's Toy

Those are the best work days! And thank you http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

I used a slightly different approach for locating the bellcrank...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495550156.jpg

Al, Clay - Did you drilled additional vac ports on the bodies ?
If not, are you using the same port for idle and vac sensor ?

I am not running an idle control valve, I don't have any cold start issues. I have to hold the idle for 20 seconds or so then it's fine.

I only used the vacuum for the MAP signal at the vacuum manifold, collected off the vacuum barbs on the TBs. No new vacuum ports.

I got my throttle all setup using Clay's kit and it works pretty dang well. I found that i needed to bend the arms and then lock the spherical ball joints so that they didn't bind or rub on anything (just like he's mentioned here). After a bit of adjusting the throttle closes on its own. I added another spring to help it out like he mentioned because I prefer not to have a stuck open throttle if i can help it. Had that happen on a motorcycle, no bueno.

I ran the brake boost to the 3/8" barb on cyl 2 manifold and then the vac fittings on all 6 throttle bodies to a universal manifold. It had 2 total outputs so i ran 1 to the map sensor and another to the FPR. Gonna try without the IACV too. I can live with lightly cracking the throttle for 20 seconds while she warms.

I'm now working on my wiring and feeling completely overwhelmed by it. So far I've:
- mounted the new fuse box and Infinity to an aluminum plate in place of where the old CDI and fuse panel was mounted. Happy with how that turned out.
- Shortened the wideband wire harness to about a 12" lead since its so close to the ECU. I did 1 wire at a time since all 5 leads are yellow insulated wire.

I decided to mount the ECU in the engine bay after hearing that they are tested at a much higher temp than it will see in this location.

Here is a crappy cell phone pic i took last night before giving up and going to sleep.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495566117.jpg

Clay has been great for sharing ideas with, answering questions and developing parts just as a I need them ;) Really, couldn't be more timely with this stuff!

"I decided to mount the ECU in the engine bay after hearing that they are tested at a much higher temp than it will see in this location. "

You might want to reconsider the location. The location of an ECU has been discussed on the forum many times. With Heat soak being an issue. With the High cost of today's ECU placing it in a more suitable location is cheap insurance.

Greetings All - I have bought a set of ITB's, Manifolds, Linkage and Vacum Accumulater from Clay and I'll be installing on a mostly stock 3.0 using Megasquirt from Al - Build thread here http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/957900-another-itb-megasquirt-build-thread.html

Looking good Shaun and Chris!

Hi Clay, nice job.
I stuck with my throttle cable install and although it works OK I will be ditching it next year and going down a route like yours. The cables have a bit too much drag and this makes the pedal heavy and puts quite a bit of stress on all of the linkages.
Just on the setting up. I used a different method but as I am an electronics engineer I approach everything with my electronics head on.
I couldn't get one of those syncrometer things into the ram pipes as they are too close to the bulkhead top at the back ones. So I made my own electronic version of an air mass meter based on how a modern hot wire air meter works. This worked out well and they all balanced easy.
To synchronise the opening of both banks I use the throttle pots on the ends of the ITB spindle and use a data logger on a laptop to check they open together all across the range. The idle is really smooth right down to 700rpm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497533716.jpg

Don't they look beautiful, can you get transparent air filters ?



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497533378.jpg


Job finished for now and on the road for the summer.

Nice setup! looks good.

I'm interested in your air meter setup, any pictures?

I have a few extra linkage parts, I can set you up with one like mine. Shoot me a PM if interested.

I have my Infinity mounted in the exact same location. I have a thermal sticker on the ECU from 150-300F and it has yet to change color on the 150 band so you should be fine. I have yet to have an issue and even after a couple hour long drive and letting the car sit, I can walk up to the ECU and touch it without so much as a hint of heat in it.

And direct from the Infinity user manual:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497561002.jpg

RE: ECU too hot and vac pipes.
 

Hi Jayson,

Here's my rule of thumb for hot electronics (ECU too hot).

If you can touch it and it feels hot but you can hold your hand on it, then it's around 40oC
If you touch it and it feels hot and you can't hold your hand on it, then it's around 60oC
If you touch it and it leaves a little bit of skin behind then you need more heatsinking:D

Clay, I'll take some pics and get the circuit and post it here, may be of some use to others as well if they want to build one. Thanks for the linkage offer but as my TB's are spaced wider apart I have a slightly different arrangement between bodies and therefore I will need something similar but the mounting would be slightly different. The other reason is that I am building a CNC plasma cutter and I will need to test it on something.

On my set up I use the original Triumph vac pipe, ( the little brass one's that exit just below the throttle plate) for MAP vacuum, fuel regulator, fuel damper and idle valve. My inlet manifold is drilled internally for brake servo vacuum. This worked out OK excepting that during warm up when the idle valve is wide open for a fast idle it bleeds off the vac signal to the fuel regulator and this causes the mixture to be a little rich but as it's during warm up it's not a bad thing. After warm up the idle valve works as it did on the original Porsche setup and at 1250rpm the idle valve is shut completely so that it doesn't interfere with the vac signal to everything. Of course I have designed my own idle valve control circuit, it's that electronics head on again.

Pete

Sounds like a cool setup Pete

I was also tempted to installed the AEM ECU in the engine bay, but decided against it. Having it inside the car makes it much easier to access for tuning without having the cord routed through the car.

I routed the USB cable through a small hole I drilled under the driver's side rear seat, under the carpet, and sits in between the front seats. Perfect spot for easy access with a laptop for a tuner. The cable remains permanently mounted in the car at all times.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif