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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: tacoma wash
Posts: 399
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Hello
Well since a few days ago I was looking for 3.6L conversion for my 86" and the prices is sky rocket and it is ways too rich for my blood.. So I decided to up grade my 50,00 miles 3.3L with PMO set up and race cam not sure what size cam one to get , I do have the SSI B&B header and muffler on the car option maybe 10 to 1 compression piston or stay at 9.5 to 1 or bump to 3.5L piston size.... question twin plug it is worth for street .I dont race for now maybe perhaps in the future thanks |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Brink
Posts: 2,838
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What you are talking about building will be very expensive. Your question may be better asked in the engine building forum.
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Both options are going to be expensive. The 3.6 swap is a bit more work than the older engines. But a 3.6 with some "bolt-on" upgrades can give you 300-320 hp with plenty of torque.
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Magnus 911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. 911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. 924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar. 931 -79 under total restoration. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: tacoma wash
Posts: 399
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yes I agreed...But as least I know about my motor is top notch condition since rebuilt and ready for up grade ...I rather have the 3.6L, over here 3.6L is very high demand in the USA.....unless I can find reasonable 3.6L price...
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,507
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Quote:
As the increased displacement in a 3.5 is accomplished by increasing bore, the wider piston does benefit from twin plugging, which would allow more advance to be run. Single plugging can work with proper parts selection/tuning, but wouldn't provide the same "bump" as a twinplug. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: tacoma wash
Posts: 399
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Quote:
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GOM (Grumpy Old Man)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 766
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As someone that recently did a 3.6 conversion, I might provide a cautionary tale. If I had to do it all over again, I would have just rebuilt my 2.7 and done some upgrades to it (EFI, bigger displacement). Your original engine (depending on condition) is a viable option and most importantly it is plug and play versus all the conversion bits required for a 3.6. The added complexity of the 3.6 conversion introduces so many variables and thus opportunity for problems/issues/added cost.
I bought an engine that was advertised as rebuilt but in actuality it was not and needed to be rebuilt. Even if you get lucky, do your due diligence and get a decent 3.6 engine, the time and money required to do the conversion can be daunting when all is said and done. It all depends on what you want. The 3.6 will provide more power out of the box and you can only go up from there with 300+ hp being possible. With my 2.7 I would be luck to get 220hp but honestly, that would have been completely acceptable to me since my car is so light any way. And I would have saved about $15K in the process, plus all the time required for the conversion install and troubleshooting. If I didn't need to rebuild my 3.6, the calculus would have been much different and I probably would feel better about the ROI on the 3.6 conversion. Basically, if you are going to go down the route of a 3.6, do the best you can to ensure you get a good motor. As someone mentioned earlier, they are expensive and the last thing you want to do is add the cost of a rebuild on top of that. Good luck.
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Instagram: @3pedalposse |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Brink
Posts: 2,838
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No matter what engine you buy it will be an unknown. I may sell my 3.6 in the spring, as I may get a Euro 3.0 or similar. My engine is very low mileage, it has been raced and has some expensive modifications. I will be nothing short of 100% honest, but that does not mean that it will not have issues - it is a used motor.
I have seen some engines sell without leak down tests, not running, limited history. These are things that will add to the risk. However, you may get lucky. |
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Selling your old engine to offset the cost of the 3.6L purchase is step one, its worth something.
The 3.6L Metzger motor bottom ends are WAY more reliable than any other air cooled engine design by Porsche. By going into the project knowing a 3.6L top end is part of the scope is being realistic. The ability to simply add a SW chip and get yet more POWER did it for me. Upon completion you have a hybrid car with the best air cooled engine ever designed that you can beat on very hard as I have done for multiple track seasons Its not rocket science as is setting up PMO's
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1980 911 - Metzger 3.6L 2016 Cayman S |
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either 964 or 993 have robust bottom ends but so does a 3.2, the difference is more in the heads and engine management
3.2 has 49/41.5mm valves 40/38mm valves, and V1 motronic 231hp@5900 964 has 49/42.5mm valves 41.5/38mm ports and upgraded Motronic w/ knock sensors 250hp@6100 228lb-ft @4800 993nvr has 49/42.5 valves 43/39mm ports and an even better Motronic w/ hot wire mass flow vs earlier barn door 272hp@6100 242lb-ft@5000 993vr has 50/43.5mm valves 43/39mm ports w/ the variable intake flexibility, 285hp@6100 209lb-ft@5250(max Row hi comp version) Unseen are hidden things like ceramic port liners that greatly reduce head temps, the 993 heads use RR530 alloy which is much more heat stable this was only used on 930s previously, 993 has an efficient exhaust stock, 993 has zero maintenance hyd lifters etc.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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