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winter-hater club member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: salt lake city, utah
Posts: 24,705
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how does that work?
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2000 Corvette - ????, 2007 Buell XB9R - Astrid, 1996 Discovery - Piglet, 2000 Forester "COOL PRIUS!" - Nobody Ever |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 748
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You take a manual flywheel and bolt it where the auto flywheel was and then put on the clutch(minus throwout bearing) and slide torque tube into pilot bearing. Just like a manual trans except you don't ever push in the clutch. The bellhousing and torque tubes are virtually identical except for where a couple holes were drilled.
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 7,845
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i've had 2 rubber centres like that -_- no longer a concern now
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https://www.instagram.com/kiwi944s3/ '86 944S3 conversion - '94 968 3.0 engine - 6 spd/LSD - 17x8,17x9 Oz Racing Crono wheels |
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winter-hater club member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: salt lake city, utah
Posts: 24,705
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Quote:
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2000 Corvette - ????, 2007 Buell XB9R - Astrid, 1996 Discovery - Piglet, 2000 Forester "COOL PRIUS!" - Nobody Ever |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Italy
Posts: 43
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Quote:
1 - What changes in terms of gearhifting? I mean is that still an automatic (so nothing changes when I dirve) or becomes and undefined merge btw manual and automatic (so I need to switch gear manually - I don't want!)? 2 - Costs compared to the expansive damper and material, if possible to have a short list of parts to buy and what parts are replaced in the "original"... thanks in advance ...
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All Spooled Up
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Between NE and Central PA
Posts: 2,516
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1. You not want? No worry - you not get. 2. Likely cheaper, especially if go used. Also, never need worry about having another blowout.
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>gray 89 951S - K27/8, MAF, 3" intake, 3" exhaust w/separate waste pipe, 55# inj, late cam; >red 87 924S - chip, K&N, punched-out cat&muffler >black 80 924 - (sold) >maroon 77 924 - auto (sold) |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 86
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WaA420 that is a great idea eliminating the rubber damper. Have you heard of any problems using this system?
I just did the same job with my automatic earlier this year and mine looked the same. I used a used one out of parts car I had. I've always thought there had to be a better way than putting a rubber part in the car that transfers all the power in your drive train. I'm thinking of theory and practice here. The damper is designed to reduce vibrations. Does it do anything else? Does using the clutch accomplish the vibration control needed? What about the proper spacing of the torque tube in the damper for movement? BTW- the chicks in my house don't drive mine too much because even though it has an automatic is doesn't have power steering. They are overcoming the objections however.
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83 Silver 944/Auto/Cookie Cutters/No side strip moulding/Extra Saratoga top(w/no hardware though) 1980 Yamaha XS1100 Special My other project and daily driver My kids say my hair matches the color of the car! Who's getting old? |
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I heard replacing rubber damper with a clutch plate will make it whine. To me this seems to be a warning that it could place more stress on the torque tube or engine bearings. I have a manual and an automatic and there is more noise coming from the torque tube shfter area. Don't know if the job in question will whine any worse than the manual. It will save you $5-600 on parts though. For me the labor was the big cost as I don't have a lift or air tools. If it is an around town car I would keep the auto, if it is a highway car I would consider converting to manual to get a taller gear and overdirve.
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Not-so Master Mechanic
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Ironic, mine looked just like that when I took it apart!!!! Pain in the butt job but what a difference having a whole damper plate makes while driving!!!!!!
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Not-so Master Mechanic
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???
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 891
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you'd need to use a S2 flywheel/disk/PP setup with a 968
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Tom Early '85 944 |
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