944 compressor front seal replacement

Ga 951 · 04-15-2013, 01:31 PM

Hey Guys,
Trying to reseal Nippondenso 10P15E compressor. I was able to remove the front shaft seal by punching out from the inside with a socket. Of course it destroyed the ceramic seal. How do I go about reinstalling new seal kit? Can I just reverse the process or will that destroy the new seal. Is there a secret to the job? I appears the ceramic seal was encased in a coil spring type apparatus (hard to tell since it broke apart !).

Some on the online tutorials for a 911 have a circlip on the front side, mine has a brass plate with an o ring around it and no circlip.

Thank for any advise!

mattdavis11 · 04-15-2013, 01:52 PM

You are on the right track. Use some oil upon installation, and be sure to remove any grooves or burs on the shaft left by the old seal. It will go back together a lot easier. Do not forget to replace the old washers (5) on the through bolts with the new ones.

Ga 951 · 04-15-2013, 06:37 PM

Matt,

Thanks for the quick response. I was hoping you would respond!

Just to be clear. Do I simply reseat the new parts for the front seal from the front of the case using a socket? I'm going to buy the o ring kit for the compressor as well as the front seal kit and shaft seal protector from Century. That is unless you have a better option.

Thanks for your help!

Bruce

kuehl · kuehl's Garage

Bruce,
The 911 Denso is alike your compressor, here's a thread right here in PP:
Pelican Technical Article: 911 Nippondenso A/C Compressor Rebuild

mattdavis11 · 08:05 AM

You won't need a socket to reinstall most of the time. Just install the seal with the sealing surface toward the front of the compressor, then install the retaining ring with it's o-ring and install the circlip. You may need to rotate the shaft a bit to get the groves on the shaft to line up with the shaft seal.

The link kuehl posted is a 10p15C compressor, but it's the same for what you are doing, same shaft seal and internals.

Make sure your put in the shims (usually the 10P15's have two shims) and set the air gap when installing the friction plate. A business card has always served me well to check the gap.

When you buy your parts, there is a lip seal style and a carbon seal style shaft seal. I like the lip seal style. PN that anyone who sells shaft seals should be able to recognize a Santech number, it's MT2040 for lip, and MT2039 for carbon. It's highly likely that they will be Santech parts. Case seal PN is MT2133.

Ga 951 · 04-16-2013, 07:34 PM

Matt and Kuehl,
Thanks for the insight. I did look at he link Kuehl had before I posted the questions. I think I was confused by the pic of the "nose" and the new parts for the front seal. IIRRC, I removed the Circlip in the front of the nose before I split the case. I was thinking my comp did not have that clip before the front seal parts.

Anyhow, waiting for parts arrive. Hope to have it together in time to drive the car to the Rolex Series this Sat. If not, will have to drive a Non Porsche

Ga 951 · 04-19-2013, 08:10 PM

Just an update,
Again, thanks for the help guys. Resealed the compressor with no issues! I did have to add a couple of shims on the pressure plate, since it was making some noise when the compressor kicked on or off. No leaks as of today (day1).

kuehl · kuehl's Garage

Bruce,

Sounds good, fingers crossed.

'Noise' at the clutch/pulley when not engaged is not normal, unless the front clutch
hub is dragging on the mating pulley.

A) Unless the clutch hub got bent or is kinda warped (the OEM Denso is a vulcanized assembly, they can fall apart if compressor is old or overheated).
B) The clutch pulleys usually runs true unless it got bent or the bearing is shot.

Pulley bearings that have been subject to an overheated compressor or that have high mileage will make noise

For the air-gap between the front clutch's hub and mating pulley surface,
take 2 feeler gauges, a .015 and .031 (go and no go), check the air gap
at 120 degree intervals all around. Normally you don't have to add or
remove the air-gap spacer washers (shims) on the shaft step under the hub.

Enjoy the ride and stay Kuehl

maint · maint's Garage

I'm coming a bit late to this thread and have a question. I dismantled most of my compressor (10P15E) and did not find any shims. The only piece not apart is the nose as I need a better/ longer set of circlip pliers. Is it common to NOT have shims and do you check the air gap at the same place you would gently pry to remove the drive plate. If I find I do need shims can I make them from brass shim stock? It looks good so far and I'll order a compressor kit from Griffiths to rebuild it. This is a spare compressor and I was checking /converting it to replace the one on the car that has overheated so I have not run it.

Ga 951 · 05-26-2013, 09:35 PM

Maint

I didn't find any shims either. As the above posts suggest, I had some noise when the clutch engaged. I had ordered and extra ceramic seal kit just in case I broke the 1st one on installation. I didn't need it but, it was insurance since I've never done this job before!

I used two of the bolt washers as shims and it worked out fine. Make to save the old ones in case you need them!