Timing, WP, FOES, Oil Cooler Project

[akron]

I noticed that the OPRV sleeve is not in the block. Did you remove it or did it fall out with the valve assembly? Mine just fell out when i removed the valve.
I reassembled mine after a oil/coolant issue and have not been able to get oil pressure back. Slow getting back to redoing the job as my sleeve is loose in the block and I have to open it back up and seal it in place with the Loctite. I tried just tapping it back in place; didn't work so well. There is a procedure in the WSM on it. I am gearing up to go back in and get it working. Really enjoying watching your progress - you're inspiring me to get moving!

[tstark]

Originally Posted by akron

I noticed that the OPRV sleeve is not in the block. Did you remove it or did it fall out with the valve assembly? Mine just fell out when i removed the valve.
I reassembled mine after a oil/coolant issue and have not been able to get oil pressure back. Slow getting back to redoing the job as my sleeve is loose in the block and I have to open it back up and seal it in place with the Loctite. I tried just tapping it back in place; didn't work so well. There is a procedure in the WSM on it. I am gearing up to go back in and get it working. Really enjoying watching your progress - you're inspiring me to get moving!

I'm not sure I understand by the "sleeve".

Which style OPRV do you have?

EDIT-
OK- so the Tech Bulletin points out that the 3 piece OPRV requires a sleeve in the OPRV passage. Yaaay! Yet another item discovered after the fact. So the sleeve must be tapped in using the P9215 alignment tool. I will fish around for the sleeve inside the passage, and ensure it is secured properly.

[tstark]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

Clean the groove on the oil cooler housing.
Put a thin coat of RTV in the groove applied with an artist paint brush to help seal the BIG main seal. Especially important if the housing seal surface is pitted.

The pictures of the oil cooler and housing look like tar was inside the housing. Bad lighting I expect.

GL
J_AZ

Ya the lighting was horrible. Should I attach the gasket to the engine block or the cooler housing? I've read it can be done either way. Since I'm working with the headers on, I don't have the luxury of space or movement. I need to be able to line it up, push it into place and thread the bolts--all without the gasket moving around. I was thinking of using the gasket on the block.

[John_AZ]

I attach it to the cooler housing held on by the RTV.

If you do not have the WSM go to your Haynes 944 book on page 91 section 29.
It explains the installation of the oil cooler housing.
J_AZ

[tstark]

Found the OPRV sleeve in the OPRV canal on the engine block. It is sticking out some, but pictures look like its seated in the back of the canal. It is stuck in its position solid. Is this the correct position or does it need to go in deeper? See pics below.

[akron]

Sorry, I was looking at the pics wrong. Glad to see your sleeve is intact and one less thing to worry about.

[tstark]

Originally Posted by akron

Sorry, I was looking at the pics wrong. Glad to see your sleeve is intact and one less thing to worry about.

I have 2 options here. Leave it as it is...or pull it, add loctite and re-seat.

The alignment tool is grooved specifically to drive the sleeve into place. So driving it in will not be a problem. Getting the sleeve out without damaging it may be the problem.

The pictures on Clark's looks pretty similar to mine, so I'm not gonna mess with it.

[akron]

Might be careful there... I tried using the alignment tool I got from Pelican and tapped it in. It sort of wedged in there and I had to work it out of the sleeve. No damage, but scary. Almost had to go on a part search! It is supposed to stick out as yours is configured. I would leave it alone. My sleeve came loose again when I went searching for oil pressure after the OC reassembly since I did not use Loctite.

[tstark]

Originally Posted by akron

Might be careful there... I tried using the alignment tool I got from Pelican and tapped it in. It sort of wedged in there and I had to work it out of the sleeve. No damage, but scary. Almost had to go on a part search! It is supposed to stick out as yours is configured. I would leave it alone. My sleeve came loose again when I went searching for oil pressure after the OC reassembly since I did not use Loctite.

Ya, I fiddled with it and it seems firmly planted so I'm not going to mess with it. The weather has been really cold so I haven't reinstalled the cooler yet. I'll tackle that with my son tomorrow.

[tstark]

Oil cooler resealed and torqued in place. Was able to pull this off without removing the headers. So a minor victory there. Hopefully it's all in place correctly. When I pulled the cooler off it had no plastic washer or metal washer on the boss. When I put it back together the cooler would not go into the housing. I removed the plastic washer and the cooler fit fine. Measured the distance from the boss and housing, it was within spec without the metal washer.

So I basically replaced it, the way I found it.

Getting the early OPRV in was a challenge, as the spring was very strong. But managed to get it in and torqued. Hopefully it's seated correctly. Used the early alignment tool, so we'll see once I'm finished and able to fire her up.

[tstark]

What's the torque ratings for the upper and lower balance shaft over bolts. Haynes manual is confusing. I'm referring to the covers not the shaft housing. The covers that are removed to replace front seals.

Thanks!

[tstark]

Nevermind I found it!

[tstark]

Two basic questions. First what's best tool to install keys in balance and crank shafts? Also, oil pressure sender wire, can't remember if it mounts on water pump bolt or timing cover? Does wire run behind timing cover or over it?

[cauzomb]

Wire goes behind timing cover, right up against the head. there's a little ledge in the castings to support it with a tab I think on each side that accepts a zip tie to hold the pressure sender wire in place.

[tstark]

Originally Posted by cauzomb

Wire goes behind timing cover, right up against the head. there's a little ledge in the castings to support it with a tab I think on each side that accepts a zip tie to hold the pressure sender wire in place.

Thanks. i figured it went behind. There's 2 brackets, one goes on the front lower oil cooler bolt. It's the top bracket I'm not sure about. Does it mount on water pump bolt or someplace else? I attached it to WP bolt, not sure though...here's a pic of it attached to the top right WP bolt.

[rhett]

Hi there, just went out and had a look. The bracket is fitted on that WP bolt, but should be facing inwards. So, just remove, rotate and refix. Then the wire can pass behind the cover (over the WP).

Hope that helps.

[tstark]

Hi there, just went out and had a look. The bracket is fitted on that WP bolt, but should be facing inwards. So, just remove, rotate and refix. Then the wire can pass behind the cover (over the WP).



Hope that helps.

Thanks so much! Much appreciated!

[tstark]

Getting ready to put the balance shaft sprockets back on. Just checking on the proper installation. The top sprocket has the O in the large circle and the bottom has the O in the rectangle, correct? See pic of the top BS sprocket.

[rhett]

Yep, just had a look, you are right...and nearly there now!!!

Regards.

[tstark]

I didn't see any mention of it in the procedures, but I'm assuming I need to use some lubrication on the inside of the BS sprokets in order to tap them into place? The woodruff keys make for a tight fit on the sprokets. I tried sliding them on dry and like the oil sleeve they just won't slide on without it. So I'm going to lube the shaft and inside of the sprokets.

Unfortunately, I just realized my lower balance shaft bolt is in bad shape, so I'll need to order a replacement.