Timing, WP, FOES, Oil Cooler Project

[nynor]

Originally Posted by tstark

Through the center (black arrow) or the top (red arrow).

red arrow, but pretty close to the outside edge.

[tstark]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

Water pump installed and snap ring opening at 12 oclock.

It makes repeating the work you are doing easier with the 12 oclock position
Easier to remove the snap ring when you are laying on your back on the cold concrete with coolant splashing in your face when the snap ring is removed.



J_AZ

Edit--Position of the thermostat -any.

Got it thanks!

[tstark]

Originally Posted by nynor

red arrow, but pretty close to the outside edge.

Cool thanks!

[tstark]

Got the water pump off and cleaned up the old gasket--very carefully. Surface feels smooth, but looks grungy. Any suggestions on what to use to clean it up more?

Spent about an hour trying to get the snap ring out of the old pump. No success. Snap ring pliers don't cut it. So I'm on to grinding down the 90 degree pliers.

[tamathumper]

I just did this job two months ago - I used Simple Green and one of those "scrubby" sponges with the plastic abrasive on one side.

[tstark]

Originally Posted by tamathumper

I just did this job two months ago - I used Simple Green and one of those "scrubby" sponges with the plastic abrasive on one side.

Will give that a shot. Thanks.

[tstark]

Getting ready to install new reman water pump. Measured the grooves and appears I have the one with the 4.5 mm gap. So I will be installing the 2.5 mm thermostat seal and snap ring only (the seal under the t-stat in pic below). I'll disregard the 4.5 mm seal and spacer shown the pic.

Please verify this is correct. I took a pic of the measurement. Had to try to line it out on a piece of hard stock then measure with ruler.

Thanks.

[John_AZ]

If the gap from the base to the "C" clip is 4.5mm, you are correct.

You use the 2.5mm thermostat seal with the 944 106 129 05 thermostat OEM temp.



J_AZ

[tstark]

The seal the thermostat came with is the 2.5 mm. Do I also need 944 106 929 05? I thought they were one in the same?

If the gap from the base to the "C" clip is 4.5mm, you are correct.



You use the 2.5mm thermostat seal with the 944 106 929 05 thermostat OEM temp.







J_AZ

[John_AZ]

Sorry, the correct thermostat number is 944 106 129 05 OEM temp.

J_AZ

[tstark]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

Sorry, the correct thermostat number is 944 106 129 05 OEM temp.

J_AZ

No problem, thanks for the quick reply.

I have the wrong thermostat...I have 944-106-019-00-M2

[tstark]

I took the balance shaft cover off, removed old seals and sleeve, cleaned surfaces and reinstalled new sleeve and seals. I then put the cover back on. However, the sleeve is sticking out a bit too far. I haven't tightened any bolts yet. Will tightening the bolts pull the housing back far enough for the key to be inserted?

Don't want to tighten anything if I screwed anything up. The picture below does look pretty close to the pic I took after loosening the housing bolts. Hoping that tightening the bolts will bring the sleeve back far enough.

Your feedback is appreciated.



Below is the pic before I took off the cover.

[tstark]

Epic fail on my part. This is a non issue...

I'm such a newbie.

[tstark]

Need some help getting the lower balance shaft cover off. Removed the 4 bolts from the cover (3 front, 1 on back). Removed the nut from PS (front just behind pulley) and tried to pull the bolt from behind with no luck.

Do I just tap the balance shaft cover off from behind and will that disengage the PS bolt?

[tstark]

I read, read, then read some more. Still couldn't the PS Pump off the lower balance shaft cover. So I removed them as a unit.

Had some oil ooze out, not a lot. But when removing the old sleeve and front seal, the onion seal came out as well. So I'm thinking the onion seal was toast since it wasn't on the balance shaft, and the shaft was probably leaking (a lot of gunk in the area).

So now, I will reseal the balance shaft. Since I have a lot more access, I will attempt to remove the oil cooler and put in the new seals.

All I can say is this project keeps going and going! Would would so much easier with a lift. Laying under the car takes its toll. Being a relative noob to this extensive wrenching has been an experience. Just hope I can get everything back on with no issues or leaks.

Pic of the lower balance shaft cover and PS Pump- which I am now considering rebuilding since its out. Should I ever find the trick to removing it from the balance shaft cover.

[iplagolf]

I'm going to jump in here. On post #33 picture of the oil cooler, lots of oil and gunk between it and the block. Looked just like mine. I'm doing a replace now. Gasket was shot. Following this post with interest. Good karma to ya!

[tstark]

Originally Posted by iplagolf

I'm going to jump in here. On post #33 picture of the oil cooler, lots of oil and gunk between it and the block. Looked just like mine. I'm doing a replace now. Gasket was shot. Following this post with interest. Good karma to ya!

How did your coolant look when you drained it? Any signs of contamination?

I should be starting the oil cooler in the next couple of days. Going to try removing it without messing with the headers. There's enough room with the PS pump and hoses out of the way. Found this pic on rennlist to help with the top front bolt.

[tstark]

Drained the oil and removed the oil filter. Removed the PS reservoir and hoses (will replace with new parts- updated reservoir hose to pump and Arnnworx hose to cooler, new reservoir).

Did not remove headers. Was able to get the heat shield off, although it was tough to reach the back bolt. It's gonna be tough getting it back on. I used an 8 mm combo and socket, from the front of the car. Slid right off.

Oil cooler is next, but not sure if both the oil pressure sender wire connectors pull off. Got the larger one, but didn't want to break the smaller one. Does it pull off as well?

I have the Arnnworx 24 mm wrench so getting the pressure sender off shouldn't be a problem. More tomorrow.

[tstark]

A little PB Blaster on the remaining oil pressure sender connecting wire and off it came.

Got the sender off with the Arnnworx thin head 24 mm wrench. Then came the OPRV. I have the old version (see below). It appears to be in good condition.

Next the fun part. I tried to configure the socket shown a couple posts back but my 1/2 to 3/8 adapter was to wide to fit between the header and oil cooler. This was the time consuming part, trying to find something that would fit. Finally came up with an adjustable head socket with a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter to 1/4 extension with a 13 mm socket. Was just long and strong enough to loosen the top bolts (see below).

Cooler came off easily. Thick O ring remained in the engine case and came out with a thin angled awl. Gasket also remained on block, the awl removed it easily. Just got under a loose corner and the whole gasket popped off. Only issue, could not find the metal spacer or the plastic o ring that attach to the actual cooler. Checked the block and didn't see them. Will double check.

Next up, clean up and new seals. Then the challenge of getting it back on!

[John_AZ]

Clean the groove on the oil cooler housing.
Put a thin coat of RTV in the groove applied with an artist paint brush to help seal the BIG main seal. Especially important if the housing seal surface is pitted.

The pictures of the oil cooler and housing look like tar was inside the housing. Bad lighting I expect.

GL
J_AZ