Once you have the filter down, inspect the body and make sure all the small bolts in there are snug. Report back with color of fluid and if any particles in the pan.

Alright, will do. I don't know if i will be able to tear into it that far tonight, though i may have the time saturday-sunday. I will defiantly be able to work on it next week.

I hope that the fuel hose you used is 30R9, just so you won't need to redo it all.

Definitely clean the area around the tranny pan before you drop the pan(as Landseer advises)....AND.... if the fluid looks or smells the least bit bad/burnt, you will need to drain the torque convertor as well as the pan. It's easy ( there is a allen head screw to turn to the bottom of the housing and undo) It just adds about 4 more quarts to your ATF bill.

Alright, about the fuel injection hose, I had my dad pick up while he was at the parts store getting some parts for his challenger, He is an aerospace engineer and deals with hose's and approved of it. Ill just leave it on the the time being.

If i do take it apart, i will probably have to buy new O rings because there is no possible way to tighten the clamps while it is on the car, so i have to pull the injectors to change the lines.

Will definately clean the pan good when i pull it off. Thanks!

Here is it running:


<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/5yY5vvWPeU8?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

well, my dad has been doing this since 1984..so he has over 25 years of doing it as well.

Ive never seen any problem with this hose, like i said, ive had it on my datsun 280zx for a few years now, it is a BOSCH system, and it hasnt given me a bit of trouble.

Just put some on my dads 280zx recently and it hasnt given any trouble either.

1982,
You should try to make this GTG in Fort Worth:

DFW GTG Saturday, Aug. 6th - Rennlist Discussion Forums

With or without your car.

I think we can move on past the fuel hose now. The warnings been given.

What's next on your car?

Fire suppression system?

http://www.smileyhut.com/laughing/rofl.gif

Man, that's just so wrong! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/visslaan.gif

Next is to fix or change the transmission. I think I've got it on the transmission fluid change.

MPDano. Thanks for asking them to move on about the line.

I don't know if I'll be able to make it or not. I'll have to check the plans.

Stepson... I just happened to have a 951 rail off today and thought I would try your back-flushing idea, man what a great tip - the car was running good before but I still got a lot of dirt out of 2 of the injectors. Thanks, DIY tips are tops...Bruce

Dang, well i didnt get to mess with the transmission today, but i thought i would see if the corvette wheels i have would fit...Porsche, You ruined my day.. why didnt you make the pattern the same as chevy car pattern? I actually got a chevy pickup wheel on all of the lugs but it wouldnt fit over the breaks ( which i knew it wouldnt). Now for the time being im stuck with these wheels (ill be nice about them) that i "highly dislike".

Well, Jacked the car up today, pulled the transmission pan.

The filter was about as clear as could be, perfect flow (Looked new)

The fluid didnt look/smell burnt, nor did it look like it had many miles on it. The inside of the transmission looked nice and clean, but after changing the fluid and making sure the filter was clear, put it back together and still nothing.

I bet that the pump in it died, and the guy that had it before the PO changed the fluid to see if it sloved the problem.

So..... Looks like i get to pull the transmission which appears that i have to pull everything under the back of the car as well..Swaping an engine looks about 10x easier, but then i would only have a 3 speed..

Any tips on what to do to pull the transmission would be appreciated.

Thanks!!

Yeah, 4 speed is the way to go. You would have regretted it, if you swapped motors. Have you verified that the linkage is ok under the car (shifter to tranny)? You need someone you trust very well to move through the gears while your under the car.

My dad wanted under the car, so i shifted through the gears, and he said that it was shifting through them nice and smooth and as good as any other transmission he had ever seen. (He used to be a mechanic and has a whole lot more experience than me on things like this)

Is there any way to pull the transmission without pulling the whole rear assembly out?

Thanks!

Bruce,
Glad it worked for you. It's saved my butt several times.

1982,
Sorry to say, but I am pretty sure that it is much easier to remove with the rear end out. You may be able to find a 4 speed tranny out there to swap right back in for yours. Cost is probably about the same. Just look around and network for one. I secured an unused '82 Euro engine from a buddy for another buddy in need for free. Those kind of deals are out there.

to drop the trans,,this is to drop with the TT attached....

disconnect the battery,

drain the pan and TQ converter,

then remove the exhaust and heat shields

disconnect the trans cooler hoses at the cats

then disconnect the E brake from the back of the handle,

gently tug on the fitting in the wheel well to remove the cable housing,
(Pb blaster is needed here to help loosen the housing)

Remove the top 3 bolts for each shock in the hatch,

remove both CV axles from either side of the trans,
they will stay with the assembly

remove both rear brake calipers and tie them up.

remove the 4 bolts at the trans mount,( 2 for chassis and 2 for trans to Xmember)

mark the cross member to the chassis for side to side
(a drill bit works here slide into the chassis/ cross member where the 2 side bolts connect)

tie the trans up to the sway bar ,

in the spare tire well disconnect the wires and push them through the hole ,

remove the speed sensor at the back of the transaxle,

remove the shifter connection

remove the bowden cable from the throttle quadrant,

remove the lower bell housing,

remove 6 bolts holding the front flex plate to flywheel, mark the position of flex to flywheel

remove both of the driveshaft pinch bolts (front and rear)
NOTE the rear bolt is easier to remove now then instead of on the ground

remove the bolts holding the TT to the front bell housing.

from the top remove the bolt holding the bowden cable housing to the top of the front bell
housing its a 4 or 5 mm allen a bit tricky to remove (this bolt is just under the fuel cooler).
NOTE if you cant get this bolt loose then the bell housing will have to come off with the TT

Drop the Xmember after removing the 2 front LCA bolts at the chassis, mark the eccentrics of the front bolts and the 4 side bolts on the X member.
The trans will stay in place,
NOTE the Xmember assembly should balance on the jack pad if its big enough,
have a helper to assist you, wheel Xmember out of the way.
place jack under the front portion of the trans lower a bit with the safety strap still tied to the sway bar then pull the assembly rearwards a bit then lower till its clear.

remove the rear TT to trans bolts and trans cooler hoses to trans then pull the TT free of the trans.

Holy Cow!!

Stepson, Ive got what is supposed to be a good 4 speed in the back of the pickup. Ill need to compare the numbers to the transmission in the car, to make sure its a 4 speed.

MrMerlin, Dang, i didnt expect to get a description on how to pull it as clear as that..Thank you very much. Should be pulling it out sometime this week.

Thanks!!