Hence, why I am afraid of Home Made Kits. I like to go with what others have used "with" pics to proof it. I went the hard way as seen in my thread. Did it and had to redo it. 5/16" 30R9 hose is not too expensive to buy at your local Auto Parts Store.

*grabs box of crayons* ...... I don't see the color 'confused' ......

I tried.....SmileWavy :D

Was able to get some stuff done this morning. After getting my shovel on and displacing some snow, I was able to get under the car and detach all of the clamps holding the hard fuel line in place. Because of the coupler that joins the line with the hard line coming from the fuel filter in the passenger side rear wheel well, I'm going to have to remove them both before I can get the coupler off. At this point, the line is free. Now I have to use every ounce of brain power to figure out how I'm going to maneuver it out. Theoretically the line is useless at this point so I could just cut it, but I'm trying to figure out how to get it out in one piece so I know how I'm going to get the new one in.

For the EFI kit, both hoses are indeed 3/8", so I should have a 5/16" hose coming my way. While I'm waiting I removed all the old fuel hoses from the end pieces. That's all I'm going to be able to do today. Husband-duty calls.

f inj connecters brittle broken /missing clips. you do them?. kits( with instruct) on ebay
connector/pigtail solder or crimp on choice . cut old ones off solder and shrink tube new ones on, few bucks and noid light test each one. 5 buck test light (ford? is one for 928 prongs fit )

can do fuel 30r9 and vac hoses by cutting a couple inch in type and size add up the footage and get at a auto zone and get pks of sizes finj clamps .

whitch hunter theyll check electrical circuit, filter, new pintle, spray pattern test send em back 7/10 days all new. some services dont send new small and large orings - pparts will have them if not nice new good seals. couple bucks

may need new finj relay too. re testing startup after rubys fuel service.

Can anybody tell me which hard line the gray one that crosses the lines is? After looking at this image, if I can disconnect this line at both ends and pop it out of the 'C' tabs after the bend, I think I should be able to rotate it down enough to get the fuel line out in one piece. This line seems to be the most difficult obstacle.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327330519.jpg

Fuel Vapor Line -
 

Hey Man_Knee : While replacing the hard fuel lines on one 928 with lots of built up corrosion and crude on the underside, I think the tube that runs along the outside of the mounting brackets was a fuel tank vapor line.

You can easily lower it out of the way by dismounting the hold down hardware along it's length. A good quality steel electrical conduit will work well if it needs to be replaced. It can be easily brazed together to make up the length. Simply use a conduit bender to copy the original routing.

Good Luck, Michael :)

Hey Michael-thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

Well, with great success comes epic fail. After some doing, I was finally able to get the busted fuel line out. The new one is also finally on it's way. Roger had some shipping issues since the packaging was too big for UPS, so he got it on a freight carrier. I also got some 5/16" fuel hose on it's way to take care of the fuel hoses. So all is good. Great success. EXCEPT, I started to disconnect some stuff in the engine bay to get ready to clean up everything. It's really disgusting under there. Anyway, while pulling some vacuum hoses, a connector snapped off. Epic fail.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327543392.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327543418.jpg

On the bright side, I think it's the thermo valve (??) and if that's the case, it looks to be pretty cheap to replace.

So here's an amateur question. I got the silicone vacuum hose kit from 928 motorsports, and I just want to make sure I know which hoses to replace. Clearly, all the very thin ones, like the one I snapped off. The 2 off of the thing that mounts on the crossbar. Can someone point out the others?

Don't remove your vac lines yet, at least keep them in place and clean around them. You'll just use the old to guide you where they go.

I'm not really worried about routing them. I took a ton of pics to document where they all came from and go, that's why I have a before pic above. They're also all still connected to each other so I get the lengths right. Aside from the thin ones and the 2 coming from the crossbar mounted thing, which other hoses would need to be replaced? Also, what did you use for the 3-way connectors with the silicone hose?

On the S I used Heater Hose, write up here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-928-technical-forum/607208-most-common-928-issues-fixes-2.html

I used the Silicone on the Euro.

Engine cleaning has commenced! I took out the throttle body (needs a cleaning all its own, that thing is diissgusting). There was so much gunk in the valley, I thought I might find Hoffa down there, I did find a bolt with its washer buried in there. I'll have to figure out where that came from. Here's some pics after 1 roll of paper towels. Hopefully, I can get a lot more done tomorrow. Pics are a little blurry bc the cam was inadvertently set to the wrong setting.

Before:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327711578.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327711605.jpg

My Titanic artifact (aka nut & washer):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327711654.jpg

After 1 roll or paper towels:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327711686.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327711715.jpg

Gotta get the passenger side going, then do it all over again. I wanna see my face in it.

There ya go Bro. Take your time on that. Now is also a good time to decide on Powdercoat or High Temp Paint those Spider Legs and Body.

Left Over Bits -
 

Hey Man_Knee, Your engine cleanup efforts are looking great. Finding a spare bolt or two amongst the muck down in the engine valley area is actually fairly common. They are most often the careless leftover bits and pieces from a previous attempt at some repair. I once found an unretrieved 3/8” drive Torx T-40 socket that had almost permanently attached itself to the valley floor.

While you have such good access to the area, shoot some carb cleaner down into the sparkplug holes and then use a blast of compressed air to blow everything out. A few old shower curtains work well to prevent any splatter off of the top of the radiator, fenders, firewall, etc… I would also pull all your plugs out for inspection and then (although some professional engine builders do not recommend it because of spark/ground conductivity issues at high RPM) add a little aluminum anti-seize to their threads prior to reinstallation.

Good Luck, Michael :)

Thanks guys. Dano, I think I'm definitely going powder coat on the spider. Michael, good call on the spark plug holes. The plugs are pretty new, but they're pretty cheap also so when I put it all back together, I may put a fresh set in anyway. Anything I should probably go ahead and replace as long as I'm in this deep?

Condition of all your Plug Wires?

Definitely getting new ones. These are old, I actually clipped the wires off and am using the plugs to cover the holes while I clean around them.

With the spider, the throttle body and plug wires clipped is the valley accessible? OR are there other major parts needed to be removed?
Removing the spider: remove the bolts at the head and disassemble the legs OR it is removed as one piece cutting and replacing the spider connectors?

Fuel rails.

Be absolutely certain to find and replace all fuel lines.

wallstreet: once the spider is out of the way, the valley is accessible. There's just a lot of stuff to maneuver around. My throttle body is completely covered in crud so it needs some extra attention and I removed it which gives open access to the valley. For spider removal, I removed all the bolts at the head and took each leg off individually, then pulled the plenum.

Landseer: all the fuel stuff is out and getting redone. The rails will get powder coated with the spider, the injectors are going out for cleaning, the hoses are all removed and waiting on 5/16" 30R9 hose to arrive in the mail with a new fuel supply line. The tank has been cleaned and is also waiting on the supply line to go back in. Had a new pump and filter put in a few months ago. With the exception of the return line, pretty much the entire fuel system will have been redone.

I did some of the passenger side engine cleaning yesterday, didn't get any pics yet but I will. There's definitely a lot more crap on this side, and a lot of stuff to maneuver around. 1 roll the other day took care of most of the valley and the driver's side. 1 roll has done a decent job on the passenger side, but it's not quite done yet. Then I have to move onto the throttle body which is just covered in crud. That will be a pain.