Bringing back a 1987 Turbo

[kdjones2000]

The early windshields are smaller, as they sit deeper into the opening than the late ones.

Filling the gap in with urethane is pretty common...

[The Glademister]

So I finally got the time and funds to get back to this project. The last two days I've been putting in a clutch kit and the re-built trans axle. Working methodically installed the new pilot beating and Sachs clutch kit. The clutch housing I first installed was from DC Automotive and had a 968 tag. The dimensions appeared to be good but I started having problems getting it over the ring gear. I had to do some grinding on the timing tab inside the housing and a hump where one of the starter bolts inserts. After several adjustments, everything clears and there's no binding when I turn the crack by hand. Part of the fitment issue are the solid motor mounts which don't allow the engine to tip for more clearance. I did eventually loosen the motor mount bolts and tipped it back with a jack stand. So I got the torque tube, trans mount, fuel filter and trans axle all bolted back in while periodically checking proper alignment by spinning the crank. Then I put the slave clutch cylinder back on and was bolting up the starter when there's issues. The starter is binding up on the ring gear and that's a problem. So I have to go back and drop the trans axle, pull the torque tube and clutch housing. I decided to try the original housing and once that's on, check the starter fitment before mounting anything else. Well that's the correct housing and I'm back putting the rest back on.

What I was able to accomplish before putting the pressure plate on was perfect spacing on the reference sensor. You have great access and can get a feeler gauge in there for the .8 mm gap. I also checked the speed sensor gap after bolting the pressure plate and ring gear. That matched up as well but the spacer must be on the speed sensor with this type sensor bracket.

So at this point I'm basically back to where I was when a sensor got fouled up and fell inside the clutch housing. The clutch did need to be replaced. The housing that was on the car was correct (I still don't know how one could tell the difference without mounting and testing). The re-built trans axle is in place and the clutch feels really good.

Now I can confidently return to the no start condition knowing that the sensors are precisely gaped.

I also glued in the windshield from my parts 944 and that looks nice.

[Cappt]

Man I feel your pain having to remove all that a second time. We just did one in a Turbo with rusty wastegate bolts, I'd have cried if something went wrong! That's how I gapped the sensors as well, I cut the bell housing and ground out the sensor notch so it went on nicely.
Who and how much was the transaxle rebuild? ours is not LSD so that might be something we do in the future.
Re-reading your troubleshooting no-start I'd take a look at the fuel pressure regulator also, if it's sticking too much fuel pressure can prevent the injectors from firing.

[kdjones2000]

If I were doing this project, I would check the starter position with the 951 clutch/ring gear setup before I started putting things back together.

....

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by Cappt

Man I feel your pain having to remove all that a second time. We just did one in a Turbo with rusty wastegate bolts, I'd have cried if something went wrong! That's how I gapped the sensors as well, I cut the bell housing and ground out the sensor notch so it went on nicely.
Who and how much was the transaxle rebuild? ours is not LSD so that might be something we do in the future.
Re-reading your troubleshooting no-start I'd take a look at the fuel pressure regulator also, if it's sticking too much fuel pressure can prevent the injectors from firing.

And yes, all the exhaust bolts sheared off so there's quite a bit of work to do there. I'm looking at hardware and gasket kits now. The tough one is the studs on the turbo down pipe which requires intake removal.

A local shop did the syncros Transmission Masters in La Vergne TN. They have a mechanic that worked in Germany for a long time and he knows these trans axles well. My cost was $2000.

Thanks for the reminder on the FPR. I did meter FP on the rail and that was within specs. My intent is to go through the Clark's list again and see if anything is amiss.

[kdjones2000]

Forget Clark's, use this: DME-Data

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by kdjones2000

Forget Clark's, use this: DME-Data

Thanks for those links!

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by kdjones2000

9) When it is in no-start mode, have jumpered out the KLR and see if it ran?

And that did the trick. Jumped pins 9 and 16 on the KLR connector and it started right up. The air bag was jumped as well so just to see if that made any difference, I shut the engine down, pulled that jumper and re-connected the plug. The car started right back up. Then just to confirm, I shut the engine down, pulled the KLR jumper and plugged the KLR harness back in. The car started back up... that time. Shut the car down to push the modules back into their spot and cover with the carpet... no start. Pull the KLR connector and jumper again, the car starts up.

The KLR is rebuilt so unless a component or solder connection has failed I wouldn't think that's the issue. Is there anything connected to the KLR that would keep ignition from happening? I suspect when one jumps those pins on the KLR connector your bypassing everything controlled by the KLR.

I'm hesitant to run the engine for extended time with the exhaust off and getting that back together is going to be priority. The broken studs on the turbo down pipe are problematic as I'll have to pull the intake and turbo to repair. You know something else will fail and I don't want to dig myself into a hole again.

[nize]

Originally Posted by The Glademister

...Then just to confirm, I shut the engine down, pulled the KLR jumper and plugged the KLR harness back in. The car started back up... that time. Shut the car down to push the modules back into their spot and cover with the carpet... no start. Pull the KLR connector and jumper again, the car starts up.

i think that's the clue, perhaps the wiring is frayed or shorted somewhere? the wiring in these cars are getting pretty old/brittle/frail with age.

[kdjones2000]

When you jumper out the KLR, it is gone from the system.

I would check the contacts in the wiring harness going to the KLR. Sometimes the prongs get spread out, and may not be making contact with the KLR contact, or only intermittently.

Looks like you are on your way now...

[The Glademister]

Yes sir we are getting closer. I borrowed a known good KLR and the car starts fine with that installed. I'll connect the rebuilt KLR and sometimes it starts - sometimes it doesn't. That one is definitely intermittent. After a phone call to Specialized ECU Repair they sent a return shipping label so the DME and KLR are on their way back.

I ordered some exhaust gaskets and rubber hangers so I can start piecing the exhaust back together. My buddy Todd also had the turbo down pipe with good studs so that's going to save me a lot of trouble drilling and tapping.

[The Glademister]

Pulling the turbo to swap out the down pipe with stripped studs was not easy. Now I'm reinstalling the exhaust and will move to the intake, pipes, etc. What is missing however is the turbo cooling pump. The bracket is present but no pump. The two hoses are just spliced together with an elbow. Is it common to bypass a bad cooling pump? Advantages verses disadvantages? Thanks!

[nize]

Originally Posted by The Glademister

Pulling the turbo to swap out the down pipe with stripped studs was not easy. Now I'm reinstalling the exhaust and will move to the intake, pipes, etc. What is missing however is the turbo cooling pump. The bracket is present but no pump. The two hoses are just spliced together with an elbow. Is it common to bypass a bad cooling pump? Advantages verses disadvantages? Thanks!

sounds like someone didn't bother replacing a failed turbo pump which will shorten the life of the turbocharger. i remember reading one of the reasons the 951 turbocharger lasts longer than the air-cooled 911 turbo is because of the additional water cooling which was a lesson learned/engineered by the porsche racing team.

i think it's super important to keep it.

there's a nice video here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-944-turbo-turbo-s/1112397-video-repair-electrical-auxiliary-water-pump.html

and soxnail has a thorough write-up (with extra mod and alternate mercedes pump options) here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-944-turbo-turbo-s/366624-turbo-pump-fixits.html

and one more here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-944-turbo-turbo-s/820465-elec-turbo-wp-alternative.html

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by nize

sounds like someone didn't bother replacing a failed turbo pump which will shorten the life of the turbocharger. i remember reading one of the reasons the 951 turbocharger lasts longer than the air-cooled 911 turbo is because of the additional water cooling which was a lesson learned/engineered by the porsche racing team.

i think it's super important to keep it.

there's a nice video here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-944-turbo-turbo-s/1112397-video-repair-electrical-auxiliary-water-pump.html

and soxnail has a thorough write-up (with extra mod and alternate mercedes pump options) here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-944-turbo-turbo-s/366624-turbo-pump-fixits.html

and one more here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-944-turbo-turbo-s/820465-elec-turbo-wp-alternative.html

That's on my list! Thanks Nise!

[The Glademister]

Very productive two days. I received the DME and KLR back from warranty repair yesterday. Installed those and the 951 started right up. Topped off the coolant and everything looks good. This morning I got the air filter box, under-pinning and glove box installed. I'm ready to road test but the tires are pretty bad. So I'm going to swap wheels from another Porsche but I discovered aftermarket security lug nuts on the 951. Just another surprise on this one! Those are 7 spline 19mm and I've already ordered a socket from Amazon. I did run it up and down the driveway. The transmission shifts really smooth and it does start to come on boost. The odometer and wipers work. Finally I was able to give the car a good wash and it does look pretty good. To really get it presentable there will need to be some paint and body work but that's low priority at this time.

[The Glademister]

Probably the best Harbor Freight purchase ever! After receiving and returning three different splined lug adapters from Amazon, I got a set of lug nut extractor sockets and that did the job. You have to pound that on pretty good to get a good bite in the aluminum lug but once it does... bingo!

So I put on a set of 16" Boxster wheels I had with some decent Hankook tires and went for a drive. The 951 is running well, coming on boost up to 1.5 psi (dash gauge), suspension not too bad but the brakes are pitiful. Brought it back to garage and for a bleed. All bleeders open up except for one on the right front. I've learned from experience not to put too much force least you twist the bleeder off. It definitely needed bleeding as the fluid was very dark. Another test run and still dodgy brakes. After another inspection I fount the vacuum hose on the booster was loose and once that's tightened down... good brakes.

I also got into the passenger door as the exterior handle was not working. I found that the little roll pin had come off the mechanism so that was repaired with parts from the carcass '83 944.

Next on my list is to confirm cam and balance belt tightness with the Schwaben tension tool I purchased from our host. I haven't found the manufacturers tightness and deflection specifications for those belts to figure out the correct settings on that tension tool. Nor is there a write up or Youtube for 944 tensioning using that tool. If anyone has specifics for that, please reply with settings or a link.

Thanks!

[Cappt]

Looking good.

[kdjones2000]

No alarm? Can you take a picture of the options label behind the spare tire?

[nize]

Originally Posted by The Glademister

Next on my list is to confirm cam and balance belt tightness with the Schwaben tension tool I purchased from our host. I haven't found the manufacturers tightness and deflection specifications for those belts to figure out the correct settings on that tension tool. Nor is there a write up or Youtube for 944 tensioning using that tool. If anyone has specifics for that, please reply with settings or a link.

do you have a link to the schwaben tension tool? from what i understand it doesn't even fit the 944/951 space due to clearance issues. there is an article in the may 2018 panorama that reviews various belt tension tools which pointed this out.

if you don't want to buy the factory special 901 tool for the low price of $1150, the arnnworx tool usually comes out as the best aftermarket tool and is made specifically for our cars by a 951 enthusiast for $226:
https://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/

[The Glademister]

Originally Posted by kdjones2000

No alarm? Can you take a picture of the options label behind the spare tire?

Here you go...