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Great work Andy, make sure you get a block off for the shroud on the left hand side like this one:
only $40 from this dude, I think they normally run at about $70. How did you cut the whole for your turbo through the engine tin? I still need to do that. Do you have an airfilter yet? I'm using a K&N that mounts directly onto the turbo, been very happy with it, very snug fit. I haven't found it to get overly dirty under there either, I kep it fresh with the cleaning kit that makes cleaning them a breeze. |
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I disconnected my stock 02 sensor a while ago Andy, I don't use one at all. I found it ran much smoother without.
I need to buy an LM1, after I got my car up and running with the turbo I've hardly had anytime to drive or fiddle with it. My next move is a MAPECU to get rid of the afm which will flow air a lot better and allow me to fine tune the AFRs, I take it you're running a BEGI to do the tuning. Either way, even if you have to disconnect the O2 sensor for tuning, which I imagine you wouldn't, you can just unplug it. The LM1 should be after the turbo, did Ben weld in a mount for one? |
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I think you can use a jumper on the 5 pin plug in the engine compartment to shut down the O2 sensor, When I put in my SW chip you had to jump it when setting the idle.
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I would just unplug for setting idle, and leave it, unless you think you need it.
I think at 32-34 psi idle fuel pressure, and AFM somewhere around seven turns from full closed, O2, ICV unplugged, should be the best starting point and be close to 14/1 afr It takes a couple days to get idle/on boost/full boost fuel pressure right. And then afm/idle rpm right. drive, log, download, redo stuff. fourth and fith on the freeway give you enough time to see full boost AFR and adjust on the side of the road without any tools. verify no air leaks before you even start it, that will leave some of the guessing out. |
what boost are going to start out with?
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217515853.jpg It's 18x12x3, and it's a cheap experiment. |
Andy, that would be nasty if you could get that in there under the stock decklid.
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Andy,
If you can get at deck opening and so it gets good air flow not only through it but over the end tanks it would be nice. How much was it and where did it come from? |
Sleezy-bay:
$40 + shipping. I'm not going to be running the engine heat blower, so what I'm thinking about doing is redirecting the LHS air to flow across the intercooler. I'll just have to see how much room I have to play with once everything is in. |
If you are talking about using the defroster blower for the IC I do not think that would work and you would be robbing air you need to cool the cylinders.
Putting the IC and the location of the defrost blower is ok. If you want to keep your ac you could adapt an 930 condensor. |
I would only be taking the air from the LHS of the engine that would normally go down to the heat exchangers. I'll experiment with it by measuring the intake temp and monitoring the oil temp.
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remember you'll need to swing it around to the air flow meter before the throttle body, this is the reason I'm using a MAP2ECU, to simplify the intake and get rid of the afm. You can mount the AFM before the turbo, it might free up some room for your project.
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Andy,
That LHS air that goes down to the heat exchanger will be diverted from cooling the motor. When it is cold outside you can afford to use some of that air for the heating / defrost system. It is ok to use the air being pulled into the motor compartment before it gets to the cooling fan. There is a lot of air movement around the motor compartment so even if it is not in the direct air flow it will be useful. If you need more cooling at idle because you are getting heat soaked, then add an electric fan to your IC. Alternate you could dry to duct the intake grill. Porsche dose that on there 930's so there will be balanced air velocity on the core and into the intake. My opinion. |
Well, the engine made it back into the car. We need to do a bit of fabricating to get the turbo to fit properly. There's not as much room in between the J pipe and the engine tin as I thought there would be. We're going to take off about 3 inches from the bend of the pipe to move it closer to the hole that we've drilled. I need to fabricate a pipe to route from the turbo air filter inlet through the LHS heater hose hole in the engine tin and into the engine compartment. I also need to pick up some extra flanges for the wastegate since the heat fins are hitting the J pipe and preventing it from bolting on properly. More to come next week!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217563124.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217563136.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217563146.jpg |
Looking good you're really coming along Andy!
Can I advise you not to cut the J-Pipe, the turbo doesn't line up with the hole in the rear engine tin that was used for the blower. You're better off getting a 930 rear tin and using that, I should have told you this earlier. If you change your turbo position your muffler most likely wont come out at the correct angle and if in the future you decide on a different system muffler or headers, you wont be able to use an off the shelf unit with your set up... You can still drive the car without the rear tin so remove it and continue putting it together and install the 930 tin when it arrives. My 2c |
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Another issue I'd like your opinion on... The fitting I have which attaches the oil return line from the turbo to the oil drain hole is obstructed by the hard oil line. Check this out:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217606159.jpg I'm assuming that angle would be problematic for a gravity drain, but I wanted to hear your thoughts before I bought a different hard oil line. |
I have seen people feed the return into the chain side cover which I kind of like as it is higher than the bottom of the case and it drains. The bottom of the case seems to work but I would be suspect that with shut off oil may be left in the oil line and may coke up. Be sure to let it idle after a run to get as much oil sucked out of the case as possable.
Best of luck. |
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i sent you a note, but if it was me, unless the backdate oil line doesn't work for sure, I'd bend the old line.
that would be an experiment though. |
Can cover option
This is how my brother did it. Just for reference. Hope everything works out for you.
Bryan http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217610719.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217610739.jpg |
That engine looks amazing! How did he get that finish on the alloy, soda blasting?
Andy, you can get a braided oil line quite cheaply from goingsuperfast or maybe blownsix one or the other. I think it's fouling it more than it should and it is something you want to get right... I backdated my oil lines, feeding it into the case has worked well for me and many others. (ignore that shield wrap on the oil line, I removed it) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217620151.jpg |
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Spence88mph
Let's just say he should own stock in Mother's. He used the Mothers Aluminum polish by hand for several hours.... he suffers from OCD, can you tell? Bryan |
I asked about boost Andy, because I wanted to say that .7 should be 400 easy. My car was dynoed again in Europe, got 371 @ .6 pretty much the same as I did earlier this year.
Have you thought about the rear squatting down 3 or 4 inches? lol, or did you change the bars? |
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What is the "backdated" oil line and why did you need to use it? Ronnie |
Ronnie,
no drip tank needed but please note this is a ball bearing type turbo that requires considerably less oiling that the KKK turbos, i dont know if this would work with a KKK. I backdated the oil line as my headers fouled the hard oil line. |
Hello and thanks for the clarification! I am in the process of installing a K27 HyFlow (among other things - including an engine overhaul) and using the OEM drip tank has been somewhat of a problem so your setup got me "wide eyed" . . . wonder if anyone has done this with a KKK turbo ???
R |
Ronnie, I have an aftermarket drip tank that came with my headers for a KKK style turbo, it's way smaller than the stock drop tank and very nicely made in shiny 321 stainless, if you PM my your address I'll send it to you when I get back from the states, I don't need it.
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To do the backdate you have to buy two lines. My car has an aftermarket braided flexible line. |
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We determined that even with the engine tin completely out, that there was no way of wrapping the charge pipe around the dual headed distributor. We removed small sections from the J pipe until we got the fitment just right. After each time we made a cut, we bolted everything back up to see how it was fitting. In the end we took off about three inches and made sure that the muffler comes out in the correct location. I'll post some pics later on. Tonight, we'll be connecting the hoses and wires. Over the weekend, I'm hoping to fit the intercooler under the lid. I've got a few different ideas which may work, but it's going to be tight. I'm determined to fit one in there!
More to come... |
Great! Sounds like you worked it out and in a way where a stock 930 muffler can be used.
Again, if you have a copy of Bruce Anderson's book there is a pic of the charge pipe RUF did for use on their C2 conversion. It goes up, turns 90 deg, then 180 deg, then 90 deg if I remember correctly. However, I am not sure if he put the the turbo in the stock location. For those that follow, RUF ran twin injectors but did not seem to find it necessary to run twin plugs on his ground braking twin turbo Yellow Bird that was based on the Carrera 3.2. |
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You are correct on the twin turbo 3.2.
The RUF single turbo conversion for the C2 3.6 had to snake around the existing twin plug distribuitor but I am not sure if he put the turbo in the same place as the 930. Keep up the good work. |
Ahhh - gotcha. And thanks!
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