I found a replacement to the factory hard oil line which still allows me to keep the stock heat exchangers, from Chuck at Elephant Racing. The line proceeds towards the front of the car from the case and wraps around the top of the transmission so it doesn't interfere with the RHS heat exchanger cross over pipe.

Made a little bit more progress. We got the hard oil line hard oil line threaded on the bottom of the case, but when we bolted the opposing end into the sheet metal the, the hose broke right by the nut connecting to the crankcase. Chuck at Elephant Racing was kind enough to agree to replace the line, and that should be in on Wednesday. The BEGI rrfpr is mounted. I'm going to have a Y adapter connecting to the IN on the rrfpr with one connection to the fuel rail and the other to an elbow which will mount the fuel pressure gauge. It should look like this when it's complete:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219116812.jpg

We'll get the distributor installed and timed and the Andial splitter wired tomorrow night. If all goes well with the replacement hard oil line and the Motronic chip arrives by Friday, we might her started over the weekend! I ordered the dual read Andial air temp gauge per Craig's suggestion. More to come soon :cool:

Hi
Just scanned through the posts from the beginning. What a great project and progress.
Jesper

I forgot to mention this in the above post... HUGE thanks to Jerry for all his help with the fittings and install questions. Thanks!

We made some great progress last night. The replacement hard oil line from Elephant Racing worked perfectly. It looked like the one that broke was almost an inch shorter on the bend going into the case. I guess it was the bad one in the batch. The rrfpr is fully installed. The distributor is in and timed. The only thing left to do in the engine is mount the turbo, intake piping, and coils. Then we'll have to chase down the "black positive lead" going to the coils which is necessary to cut to wire the Andial splitter (proven difficult to find so far).

I really like how the like mounting of the BEGI rrfpr turned out:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219328517.jpg


Here's a pic of the J pipe we had to modify to get around the twin plug distributor:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219328577.jpg

I have no idea how true it is but I've read that it's not a good idea to leave a fuel pressure gauge permanently connected as they can leak. I've never seen a pressure gauge leak water though and I've seen plenty, both old and new.

I believe today is the day we turn the key. Any last words of advice?

the anticipation is worse than anything. get the fuel pressure right before you put it in gear.

have fun

edit,, well I guess as much as you can with the gauge in the back. Watching afr will will be a give away that the rr reg is working.

I am not an expert but if you could disconect the fuel pump and spin the motor up w the starter a bit to get some oil through the motor it probably would not hurt.

Well, we're much closer than when the day began not quite there. Should wrap things up sometime next week. Here some pics of today's progress:

Wires in yellow are for the Andial air temp gauge, wire circled in red is for the Innovate LM-1, and wires circled in blue are for running the Andial splitter.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219546707.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219546796.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219546816.jpg

Hey guys, quick question for you. My turbo oil return is looks like it may rub against the turbo manifold and/or the LHS heat exchanger. Is there some material I could wrap the return hose in to protect it from wear?

yepsame thing happened to me...
 

so I bought some sheilding wrap that is rated at something like 2000 degrees, it burnt away straight away! So I left it without, one year on and it has caused no problems without any protection, it's about 3mm away from one of the pipes.

That's too bad spence. I'm pretty certain that mine may rub against the turbo manifold. Is there some high heat rubber that could withstand that?

Those of you who have done Carrera turbo conversions: did you leave the hose in place which connects from the back of the rubber elbow on the throttle body to the air valve on the oil tank? Jerry, I noticed in your thread that you removed the hosed, capped the end at the rubber elbow, and installed a filter at the air valve. Is there any reason you shouldn't leave this line in tact?

Andy if you leave it in place you will pressurize (with boost) your oil tank, could be a big mess...

there's also a couple of small ones to the oil tank you need to block off too.

Yes, Spence is right- that is not a good way to boost your oil pressure... :D

without thinking about it too hard, yes, you'd press your oil tank.

Thanks for the tip guys.

Spence, I'm not sure which you are referring to. Could you describe where they connect? I know there are 2 large holes next to the oil filler cap (one of which is for the hose which connects to the back of the rubber elbow as referred to above). I think the other one connects to the top of the crankcase.

Just to clarify, I was wondering if you guys could point out which nipples need to be capped for my setup. From what I can see, there are 4 nipples which are near the oil tank.

These two are directly next to the yellow filler cap. Please confirm that the one on the top was connected to the rubber elbow on the throttle body. This is the one that I need to put a separate filter on. The lower nipple connects to the top of the crankcase and should remain in place:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219781776.jpg


These two nipples are located above the yellow filler cap to the left. I forgot to take pictures of these in the tear down. Do they need to be connected to vacuum or should they be capped:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1219781891.jpg

lol!

Hey Andy,

I capped both of those I'm quite sure, nothing on the oil tank is connected to vacuum. Does this help? I haven't seen my car for months so I need my memory refreshed but I know I capped off everything to do with the oil tank and added an oil breather on the large pipe that did connect to the back of that boot between the AFM and TB. It also leaves you with a big hole at the back of that boot to block off which was another reason I ditched it.

I hope this helps, it was the only thing that threw me ith the conversion, Jerry helped me out there god love him.

Close but no cigar
 

We cranked the engine and got fuel and oil pressure, but it wouldn't start up. We verified that we were NOT getting any spark. Doug suspects that one of the reference/speed sensors may be bad since we aren't getting any RPMs on the tach when we turn the key and crank. Any suggestions?

Do you have an oscilloscope handy so you can view the crank sensor input to the ecu? Also, how are you feeding DC to the ECU? It is very important the battery feed to the ECU/sensors not be tied anywhere near the starter. The starter generates a tremendous amount of noise where the sensor output is drowned in a sea of noise.

We changed out the reference/rpm sensors and tested positive for resistance on the ohm meter, but we still weren't getting any spark. So we swapped from the Protomotive chip out for the stock chip. We got spark immediately, but haven't yet started the engine. I triple checked that the notch on the chip and the notch on the board were aligned. So it currently sounds like I may have received a bad chip from Protomotive. Would I cause any harm if I rotated the chip 180 degrees such that the notches are not aligned? Any suggestions? Thanks guys.

Dude, don't install your chip backwards! It probably won't hurt anything, but a phone call to Protomotive would be the first line of attack to me.

Got her started today. There's a problem with Protomotive chip that I'll have to look into on Monday, so we got it running temporarily on the stock Carrera chip. It sounds like the turbo starts spooling around 2000rpm, but I can't be certain about that as I was NOT getting a reading on the boost gauge. Didn't take it above 3000rpm because of the chip. Hopefully I'll get to take it through its paces later this week. The exhaust sounds great, Ben!

thats great news what turbo did you go with again?

I went with the ball bearing Precision SC6162SPR. It has the EXACT same compressor wheel as a Garret GT35-r. They've modified the compressor housing for even better spool up characteristics than the Garrett. It has a .63 AR rear housing.

Andy,
I look forward to hearing your results. With that low AR, that compressor wheel, combined in a high compression engine, should prove to be very interesting.

As far as the polarity notch on the chip.... If you stare down at the top of the board, you will see all the notches on the chips populating the board facing the same direction. Always, always, always.....install the chip in the same orientation as all the other chips that are on the board.

Are you running it in twin plug mode?

I am not an expert but I would not run it on the stock chip unless I disabled one of the spark plug circuts or set the Fuel Quality Switch to retard the spark.

The best.

So long as he keeps out of boost he should be fine for now.

"I was only below the hard deck for a few moments. There was no danger, so I took the shot."

Yes, we did have it in twin plug mode. We drove it granny-like for 10 minutes, never exceeding 3000 rpm. Just enough to make sure there weren't any glaring issues. Then we checked for leaks. I won't be running it again until we get the chip issue resolved. I'm shocked with how early the turbo started spooling without being anywhere near tuned in. It should be an exciting week! :D

Again, I am not an expert but the timing for a twin plug is different than a single plug and needs to fire later as it burns the mix faster. Running a the stock timming w a twin plug set up is in effect forced pre detonation.

With the rising rate fuel reg I would am not be come concerned about there being enough fuel.

Lets put it this way. If you built a twin plug race motor and ran a shingle plug ignition timing advance and curve you would see a failure.

Again, playing w the fuel quality switch should help w the timming and fueling untill your chip comes.

It sounds like there was a programming error with the chip. Should have it back in a few days.

We had to clock the fuel line leading to the rrfpr and fuel pressure gauge so we could get the pipe from the turbo to the air filter installed. It's a shame that the nice big air filter is buried back there. Here's a pretty much final picture of what the engine bay looks like.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220959794.jpg


Driver's side rear wheel well:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220959841.jpg

Andy,
Yeah, who-dah thunk adding one device, such as a turbocharger, could clutter up the engine bay as much as it does. :D

Looking good!

Seriously. The Germans and their efficiency didn't leave us much room to play with. There's about the same amount of clutter as there was before:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220983082.jpg


After:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220983103.jpg

How did you plum the tubing in the forward part of the engine bay? The part we can't see.

I'll take some pics for you tonight... should've taken some before I put the bumper back on. Basically the turbo sits about 3-5 inches to the left of the typical position in order to get around the twin plug distributor (we had to hack the J-pipe). The charge pipe comes straight up from that position to where you see the BOV in the lower left of the engine. the air filter plumbing was pretty tricky. Here's a good example of a run-on sentence: coming out of the turbo, the pipe takes an immediate 90 degree bend towards the front of the car, then another 90 degree bend into the engine compartment through the hole that was intended for the heater hose (backdated LHS engine tin), then another 90 degree bend towards the front bumper once inside the engine compartment, then stretches up to the the blue silicone elbow you see in the top left of the picture above, then a final 90 degree bend to the right in the rear of the engine compartment, finally leading to the air filter.

You can see the 90 degree aluminum bend leading up to the engine compartment here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220985824.jpg

Great stuff Andy! Looks excellent.

I hope your plastic elbow thingy stays on longer than mine did, if the car all of sudden wont idle and looses lots of power check there.

I have a company ARE (www.are.com.au) designing an intercooler for my car, I'll let you know how it goes, you might be interested in a 2for buy. Right now they're thinking of spliting the charge to two small coolers either side of the bay, I'll PM you.

90 degree bends
 

Question,

Not that I'm an expert by any means, just curious.

Won't all of the 90 degree bends that you have effect the effieciency of the turbo and create a delay of boost?

Thanks,
Bryan

A lot of his turns are 45 degrees and both versions of the 930 have some serious plumbing involved.