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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Idaho
Posts: 194
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Replacing timing chains
I have my cams at the shop being worked on with my rockers. In Wayne's book he says to replace the timing chains pretty much w/o exception.
My question is since I am not , hopefully, opening the case, should I get 2 master-link chains and replace the existing chains? I'm not sure how I would get the old ones off unless a bolt cutter would do the trick. I'd hate to use a pneumatic cutoff tool with the case open. Any ideas? Last edited by forwheeler; 04-28-2010 at 06:55 PM.. |
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04-28-2010, 09:54 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,180
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At first, I was going to ask how many miles on your engine, but thinking about it more, I guess the best thing to do is replace them.
A bolt cutter might work, but all you need to do is get one of the pins out. A chain break might work, but I would be inclined to cover up the engine well (plastic) and cut off what you need. |
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04-28-2010, 04:41 PM
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Infidel
Join Date: May 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 1,172
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A simple link extractor tool should work shouldn't it? Something like this
Is that what you are talking about Rocket?
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Jonathan. 87 930, 993 turbo engine, RS Tuning 520PS/515lbf-ft, Arrow Rods, ARP hardware, Solid lifters, G50-50, RS Flywheel, 890nm Sachs clutch, RSR coil overs all round, 993 C4 calipers front, 930 fronts on the rear, Ruf Speedlines..... Old 540 BMW, XB12S Modified, for being a total hooligan 
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04-28-2010, 04:51 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,180
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^^^^ Thats what I'm talking about! Not sure if that's the right size, but a motorcycle shop would have one.
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04-28-2010, 06:04 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,249
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I wrapped and covered them and the opening in the case with aluminum foil to keep dirt out and then wrapped them with masking tape right down to one exposed pin between links.
Then cut the end of the pin down with a cut off wheel on a die grinder until it would press out the other side. Then remove all the tape and aluminum foil. Then use a master link to connect the end of the new chain to the old chain. I use safety wire to lock it on for that. Rotate the crank and feed in the new chain... etc. |
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04-28-2010, 06:10 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Idaho
Posts: 194
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.
The engine was rebuilt about 10 years ago but I don't know the mileage or exactly what was done. I assume the chains where replaced then. They look like they have more room for the tensioner to take up slack so they are probably ok. I assume nobody has heard of a master link failure. The chain ramps look good too but I will replace the two accessible ones. I also have this wear on the chain case. I was thinking of changing the number of spacers on the cam but wouldn't that cause sprocket alignment problems? 
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04-28-2010, 07:28 PM
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Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: St Johns, FL
Posts: 1,210
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You need to find out why the chain is riding against the cam chain housing before anything else - intermediate shaft misaligned/ramp problem/etc. And, you need to do what you can to find out where the pieces of metal shaved off the housing went. That sucks.
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04-29-2010, 05:49 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Idaho
Posts: 194
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This could have been happening for years and the pieces were small and came out during oil changes etc. I hope anyway.
I will check things out when I get the cams back. The spacers on the cam front are supposed to be for lining up the sprockets and I assume if that wasn't done correctly then the chain would rub on the case. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment on the tensioners that would adjust them sideways. |
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04-29-2010, 07:15 PM
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