I'm kinda surprised you haven't made your own shifter! I think you should. It'll only help your aftermarket parts company inventory that we'll all most likely be buying from some day...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/boldblue.gif

Unfortunatly yeshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/sad2.gif

Thank you for guessing my parts would be worth to be made serial, but don't have the time. If I think of how much someone should offer to motivate me for any of my parts, the amount would make everyone speechless:D

You won't believe, but I do in fact thought about making my own shifter, not that difficult, but I had no idea of the ratios from rod, link etc... My conclusion was too much waste until I would find the best compromise between shifting travel, precision and still not to tight.

Maybe I will in the far future made the console out of aluminum, there is the biggest potential for improvement. the rest is quite nice when I am finished with my work now.

Shifter
 

You said you had a Haggard shifter ... How did you like it ? I am leaning towards getting one myself because of the position while sitting is better with 6 point on .

Roland, thanks for taking the time to picture and explain all of the various flaws in the D-Zug shifter, as I was very interested in it, but no way would I want something that expensive which shows so little attention to detail. I can definitely understand why you are disappointed, and had I gotten one in like condition, would return it immediately. I realize that a return is a bigger problem for you considering your location. Anyway, thanks again.

Kozmo

I loved my Hargett shifter, optimal shifter position and travel, therefore a bit more force needed, but you will ever now, when gear is in.
The reason I sold mine is that there is no way to get it street legal, as it covers the handbrake. you can't reach without unlock the safety belt. Especially me as a small person and 4-point harness;)

This one does not affect handbrake, so I give it a try. No idea about performance, but some people here reported good one.

Ronnie (it's rather Ronny, right?)

Yes returning would be a big amount of effort, so I will "update the shifter". Don't get me wrong, it sure works fine, but the way it's made is fine for a DIY piece for your own use, but for selling... I don't know...

I am also a bit disappointed by Pelican to not check their products a bit better for built quality

Roland, I understood your point and agree - for what it costs, there should not have non-symmetrical cuts/lines, or anything of the sort. I wonder if they are all built like that, or if the one you got somehow slipped through (and then slipped all the way to Switzerland :D)?

"Ronnie" is the more common short (you don't see it spelled "Ronny" very often here in the US) for "Ronald". I was called "Ronnie" as a kid (I'm 46 now) and it stuck with me into adulthood. * No doubt Paul will come in here now with a theory as to "why" - probably something along the lines of questioning my manhood :D * For many years now, probably about half of the people I know call me "Ron" (when they are not calling me "stud" or "your highness", of course)! :p

P.S. I thought of you the other day when I mailed an eBay package to Switzerland! ;)

I decided to make my own shifter console, but... later;)

Until then, I made a between solution:

Machined rod and made some nylon shims to adjust play and have no metal to metal contact surface. Axis of rod is a modified bolt, but hollow drilled and machined for weight saving. Surface is polishes too and has only little play in the rod:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393525637.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393525668.jpg

Further I worked on the console. Made the bearing sides parallel to each other (note the bow caused by the smaller gap now between) using a big hydraulic press. The aluminum blocks articulation bolts are made out of M8 SS bolts, Polished bearing area and less play radial and axial, witch leaded to smooth movement here as well. Note there is no need for bolt head inside as the block is centered due the shims between block and console:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393525971.jpg

Unreal as usual.

I sometimes wonder if I will click on this thread and find that you scrapped the flimsy old 930 shell just to carve a new one out of billet.

How much weight that would safe?:D If it's enough... you'll never know...

Seriously, I just want it to stay a 930, so some things I would never change (but work in them) like flat six air cooled, single turbo because I still want to feel it's a 930 in it's main character. But no problem when some of you guys do things like this. Everybody should make it his own way

Made a new console for the fuel filter, maybe I still should drill a bit, what do you think:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393682605.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393682629.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393682651.jpg

Nice to see that car is coming back together Roland :-)
So many great details on this car

That bracket is way too solid. Needs serious drilling :-)
What type of fittings and plumbing are you using for the fuel?

^drilled fuel lines^ :D

duh?

Disgustingly heavy! Chop chop, dear boy. Get drilling! :D :D

Coming along nicely Roland - I'm also about to get started with fuel pumps, filters, fittings, fuel lines.

SS braided PTFE lines, AN-6 from pump to pump to filter, AN-10 from Filter to Rail to Rail to FPR, AN-6 back to tank. Fittings all black like on pic (Fragola brand bought from Summitracing)

Ok, I think about drilling;)

Did you missed me :-)
 

Because I have to stay with the parking brake, I decided to save at least some weight there too. Drilling, hollow drilling and an aluminum bush with plastic bearings, that's it

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396208047.jpg

Made the pushrod and the axle of the lock lever out of aluminum too. Aluminum bolt for switch is on the way, but at least it's ready to install now:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396301479.jpg

I was thinking of lighter joints for the throttle linkage. Looked at tons of in the RC area, but found only too weak, too small or too big, but none fitted my thoughts... until now:)
From BMW vintage carburators of cars and bikes, very cheap each pair about 6 USD and M5 thread as I wanted. Used the SS balls of the joints I had before, nuts are aluminum of course:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396468799.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396468823.jpg

To feel at least a little succesful since a while, I mounted the shifter and handbrake today. It starts to look like a car now a bit;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396644013.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396644035.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396644056.jpg

Roland,
Unacceptable. That's too much continuous sheet metal. Did you run out of drill bits? ;-)

Shame on mehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...ys/men_ani.gif

...at least the pieces to close the draining holes are FG;)

that shifter looks great!

To save some more weight at the shifter, I worked on the rod. Cutting off the middle section, hollow drilled the left SS parts, machined for shrink fit the aluminum rod part (wich I anodized of course;))
The rod has an outer diameter of 19.05mm (3/4"), what's almost impossible to get in Europe. I used 18/13mm Anticorodal 6060, which is strong enough for this application:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397070472.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397070495.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397070515.jpg

Nice going Roland! Any idea when your car will be done and running? This year or next year? Also, what's your weight goal (your car not yourself!)? I'd wager that it'll weigh around 2600lbs with all steel body, without A/C and half tank of gas.

I think all that are watching are wondering what the weight goal is ??????


Kozmo

Some of you may remember that I said once there is no goal in kg, just save weight.

2600lbs are about 1180kg which is way too heavy! How much weighted yours stock then? I suggest It will be around 1000kg (2204lbs), maybe a little below;)

I hope this year, but could be wrong... Lots of unknown factors (like my talent to find parts that can be worked on)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat1.gif Oh Ya ! that's a good weight for a street car

Kozmo

Wow! We thought getting a full road car down to 1,100kg was tough.
A flat 1,000kg -- that would be phenomenal! Seriously quick acceleration. :-)

Made several little progresses, but too early to show (so you can't see the mess in the garage;) )

However, I finished the door hinges, cut and anodized and bushes fitted. Only the pins are not galvanized yet and not mounted therefore (I hate the gold zinc stuff)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1400095221.jpg

one more try
 

I am still looking for plastic outer door handles. Last time I asked, I get the answer they are made soon, but this never hapend. Maybe one of you can assist.

Here how they look:



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1400095362.jpg

Please look here as well:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/677442-rsr-plastic-outer-door-handle-available-2.html

Is there any chance you could have some plastic door handles 3D printed?

Professional 3D Printing | Stratasys

Well I thought about that once and visit an exponation about a couple of months ago, but see mainly these problems:

-How strong is the plastic used? Will not be some kind of fiber reinforced like used at conventional made ones due the injection process which use some wires.

-The finish is not flawless of what I saw. Only real expensive printers used in industry can make superior quality, but not at those shops.

-The bolts are casted in, possible on a 3D printer?

And even if, making a CAD will be very time consuming I guess...

Biggest weight saving ever!
 

Tada:

Replaced steel pins (left) at door opener by aluminum ones (right):D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1400190281.jpg

Had to use all my engineering skills to made those most complex pieces and hours of planning follow by days of manufacturing until I get them

Roland, according to some of the errrrr, ummmmm "enthusiasts" here, you are steadily turning your car into a valueless sh@tbox! And awesome job of it, by the way! :D

Thank you!!!!

For that compliment you deserve my favourite smiley:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...ys/men_ani.gif

Spent the last couple of days for drilling (what else) and now ready at least for now, all parts for plating

Oops, forgot pic;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1400710586.jpg